Oh Dear sills
- Thread starter supersport
- Start date
Thanks guys.
The wife really likes the car so wants to save it. I am thinking with my head so I need to get it looked at properly by someone who is a body work man.
Mark at Elvington is a top paint man but as said doesn't do body manipulating.
After the MOT I was a lot happier with the state of the car than I thought so I am prepared to put a £1000 into it. We will see.
The wife really likes the car so wants to save it. I am thinking with my head so I need to get it looked at properly by someone who is a body work man.
Mark at Elvington is a top paint man but as said doesn't do body manipulating.
After the MOT I was a lot happier with the state of the car than I thought so I am prepared to put a £1000 into it. We will see.
pauljmcnulty
Active member
As a general rule, I'd suggest asking local indies for their recommendations when looking for a bodyshop. I totally agree with Tref's comments about replacing as little as possible. I'd also go for a bodyshop that specialises in classic car restoration.
The e-bay panels look fine, but I've heard plenty of stories of slightly cheaper than OEM panels needing so much fettling to fit that they worked out dearer. Seller doesn't sound too sure about them!
Am I missing something, why does he ask you to specify LHD or RHD? The shells all rolled of the same line, didn't they? [8|]
The e-bay panels look fine, but I've heard plenty of stories of slightly cheaper than OEM panels needing so much fettling to fit that they worked out dearer. Seller doesn't sound too sure about them!
Am I missing something, why does he ask you to specify LHD or RHD? The shells all rolled of the same line, didn't they? [8|]
morris944s2john
New member
Peanut wrote:-
" I'd second that approach . its either a cheap but sound bodge that could last 2-3 years or scrap/part the car.
Easy enough to cut a small square in the outer cill back to sound metal, insert a small repair piece and tack /braize in place and then fill and paint. £100.00 should cover it.
of course if the rot is extensive and structural thats a different matter.
Nice job Morris........I especially like the Tescos cornflake packet template! I reckon you must have cut your teeth on MG's
"
Thanks, Peanut, not MG's but Morris Minors. I have restored two now.
I would not tack/braze the repair piece in place as the sills are part of the car structure, so fully seam welded is the way forward. The idea is to re-build the cars strucure to as close as original, restore the strength to the car and make it look original but at less cost than full sill replacement. So if a full sill is not needed then high quality local repairs - just the rust cut, make new pieces up and butt weld these in. I cut those holes back to clean metal, the paint was intact inside the sill where I had cut the hole. I also cleaned off any rust from the inside of the sill. The rest of the sills were in good condition. (apart from a patch of "surface" rust at the front- more on this in another post).
I agree though, definitely go to a good classic car restorer not a local garage that does MOT patches. (Unless their work is high quality).
Incidentally, the templates were made from a Tesco fruit and fibre packet, although I now prefer Sainsburys now as it gives a more accurate repair section[
] [].
Yes, the repair should cost hundreds and not thousands and unless the sills are rusted out all along then a local repair is perfectly acceptable, as Barry Hart was quoted in an above post. We can save the lower value cars too!
" I'd second that approach . its either a cheap but sound bodge that could last 2-3 years or scrap/part the car.
Easy enough to cut a small square in the outer cill back to sound metal, insert a small repair piece and tack /braize in place and then fill and paint. £100.00 should cover it.
of course if the rot is extensive and structural thats a different matter.
Nice job Morris........I especially like the Tescos cornflake packet template! I reckon you must have cut your teeth on MG's
"
Thanks, Peanut, not MG's but Morris Minors. I have restored two now.
I would not tack/braze the repair piece in place as the sills are part of the car structure, so fully seam welded is the way forward. The idea is to re-build the cars strucure to as close as original, restore the strength to the car and make it look original but at less cost than full sill replacement. So if a full sill is not needed then high quality local repairs - just the rust cut, make new pieces up and butt weld these in. I cut those holes back to clean metal, the paint was intact inside the sill where I had cut the hole. I also cleaned off any rust from the inside of the sill. The rest of the sills were in good condition. (apart from a patch of "surface" rust at the front- more on this in another post).
I agree though, definitely go to a good classic car restorer not a local garage that does MOT patches. (Unless their work is high quality).
Incidentally, the templates were made from a Tesco fruit and fibre packet, although I now prefer Sainsburys now as it gives a more accurate repair section[
] [].Yes, the repair should cost hundreds and not thousands and unless the sills are rusted out all along then a local repair is perfectly acceptable, as Barry Hart was quoted in an above post. We can save the lower value cars too!
Ok, have taken the car to a proper body shop who have done 944s before. They are going to fix it but don't have to replace the entire sills which is good and at a reasonable price [] It is only the outers so that is also nice.
I don't see the car as a Concours contender so I am not so fussed about doing a "proper" job. I can't see the car lasting more than another five years so I don't want to invest in it. It was never that good to start with. So if its fixed up and I get to keep it for a couple more years I will be happy and it will have done what it was bought for.
Out of interest, Porsche only have stock of new sills available for one side of the car, the others are on back order at the factory so you would have to wait until more were made. At £130 + vat I also though they were quite reasonable.
] It is only the outers so that is also nice.I don't see the car as a Concours contender so I am not so fussed about doing a "proper" job. I can't see the car lasting more than another five years so I don't want to invest in it. It was never that good to start with. So if its fixed up and I get to keep it for a couple more years I will be happy and it will have done what it was bought for.
Out of interest, Porsche only have stock of new sills available for one side of the car, the others are on back order at the factory so you would have to wait until more were made. At £130 + vat I also though they were quite reasonable.
craig2105
New member
Mark - I know it's way off your patch but I know a good guy in Reading who did some repair work on mine. He's worked on all variety of Porsche cars as he was based near the UK factory HQ and he's a former 944 owner too! I'm sure he'll be able to help if needed but of course the distance is going to be a pain. Let me know if you're interested, cheers, Craig
Craig, thanks for that but it is way to far. Hopefully now I am sorted but will keep you all posted on progress.
I imagine that they would now recommend themselves since they now have their own paintshop. I do know that there is a good place in Tockwith but don't have the name. I have seen some of there work on a 911S that they rebuilt after all that was left was front and rear bulk heads.
Fat Albert
New member
Hi Lowtimer, good to see you made it here at last!! (we know each other from another Forum of shared interest)
My car is in at TWG, they use a good local bodyshop in Peterborough, where, apparently, the guy is pretty good, as you can see from the attached shots, my NS one has strayed above the Sill line, so I am having my entire Rear wing re-sprayed as well as the sills (which are being patched) and the work has been estimated roughly at £480+Vat
With the Mileage on mine (200k+) it is not worth doing any more than a patch-up that will last 2-3 years, as the car will never be worth a huge amount more than I originally paid for it
I will let you know how it goes and what they do after I pick it up (tomorrow hopefully)
My car is in at TWG, they use a good local bodyshop in Peterborough, where, apparently, the guy is pretty good, as you can see from the attached shots, my NS one has strayed above the Sill line, so I am having my entire Rear wing re-sprayed as well as the sills (which are being patched) and the work has been estimated roughly at £480+Vat
With the Mileage on mine (200k+) it is not worth doing any more than a patch-up that will last 2-3 years, as the car will never be worth a huge amount more than I originally paid for it
I will let you know how it goes and what they do after I pick it up (tomorrow hopefully)
I considered talking to TWG since they are round the corner from my mum but would have meant going back down again to get the car and I don't have time.
£480 for sills and paint sounds good, I look forward to seeing the results. In fact if it is tomorrow and not too early I could pop round to TWG meet up with you to have a look. As it happens we are down to the parents tonight.
Suffice it to say that it also involves a lot of positively enormous flat-four and flat-six air cooled engines*, with some of the more modern and fuel efficient types going for hot-water fours. But the power outputs are derisory by the standards of this forum.
*having said that, my last engine related to the other forum had nine cylinders and a supercharger, which is not a configuration I am expecting to see in this neck of the woods any time soon.
*having said that, my last engine related to the other forum had nine cylinders and a supercharger, which is not a configuration I am expecting to see in this neck of the woods any time soon.
Fat Albert
New member
The HP may be a bit lower, but the Octane-Adrenalin conversion ratio can be somewhat higher![]
Speaking of which, weather dependant I will be re-starting that other hobby on Sunday morning in my new 4.5 litre Flat four 180BHP machine[]
I will probably be dropped off at TWG around 9:30/10:00ish, I will give them a call and check it will be ready this afternoon
Edit: It is not ready, they were delayed on the oily bits by the wrong parts being sent, so it was late going to the bodyshop....[]
]Speaking of which, weather dependant I will be re-starting that other hobby on Sunday morning in my new 4.5 litre Flat four 180BHP machine[
]I will probably be dropped off at TWG around 9:30/10:00ish, I will give them a call and check it will be ready this afternoon
Edit: It is not ready, they were delayed on the oily bits by the wrong parts being sent, so it was late going to the bodyshop....[
]
ORIGINAL: Fat Albert
The HP may be a bit lower, but the Octane-Adrenalin conversion ratio can be somewhat higher
peanut
Active member
thats why I always pre-order the correct parts from Exeter for my indie and bodyshop, You can't trust anyone to check properly.ORIGINAL: supersport
ORIGINAL: Fat Albert
The HP may be a bit lower, but the Octane-Adrenalin conversion ratio can be somewhat higher
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