15k for an early 964?

[godfrea]

Thinking of changing my carrera 3.2 for an early 964. My budget is 15k is that enough to get get something resonable to use every day or will it be a bag of nails? Looking around i can see a few dealers with 15k cars for sale but wonder if i should be spending more (or looking for a cheap boxster instead)

 

[John H]

£15k should be enough to get you a good 964 ... but ...

I have seen cars in garages at well over this figure that I wouldn't buy in a million years, yet I know of cars that have sold privately for around this which have been excellent.

You just need to know your subject.

John H

 

[tim_haskins]

I would agree with John.

I bought my RHD K reg carrera 2 a couple of years ago with full service history from main dealer/ JZ mechtech with all standard repairs already compleated and a wedge of invoices for work recently carried out for alot less than 15k. I had it serviced at main dealer for peace of mind when i got it and found that the car was in great condition with no work needed. They are about for resonable money you just need to find the right one with documented repairs carried out recently ie cluch, flywheel, brakes.......etc!!!!. Two years on and still no problems with the car at all and it still brings a smile to my face whilst driving.

One of my best purchases ever!!

good luck in your search

Tim
[]

 

[Guest]

If you go LHD you'll get a much better car for sub £15k.

I have always rubbished LHD as being impractical (e.g. car parks and overtaking etc.) but more importantly un-natural to drive i.e. reaching for the gearlever with your right hand.
However earlier this year and one impulse purchase later I found myself with a 1991 LHD C2.
The paintwork was very good, nice colour (amazon green), 78k miles with FSH., full black leather, sports suspension, brand new Bridgestone S02's. All for £12k - from a dealer (Hillcrest nearl Henley)

Despite my worries after 2 weeks it felt totally natural to drive. I've even had it on track and didn't once attempt a gear change with my wrong hand.

Having been very sceptical I'm now a LHD convert.

Just thought I should mention it.

 

[Gordon Attar]

With a budget of £15k you will have a good choice for another £500 to £1000 you will have a choice of 90% of the market and ref kdean LHD is perfectly usuable and gets rid of the footwell intrusion and you will save 20-30% on RHD, this will then leave you a reserve of £3/4k.
The alternative Boxster is not really a comparable car almost chalk and cheese and will be considerably slower.
What ever you go for Condition and history are important along with an inspection by a specialist like Northways who know there 964's ie not an OPC.

Herewith a note a produced a while ago, consolidating advice from this site:[FONT=tms rmn"]

The basic principle with a 964 is to get the latest model you can afford because there were some issues with the early ones that were designed out later. Otherwise check that the work has been done or budget for getting it done. Key ones were the Dual Mass Flywheel, oil leaks around the heads, through bolts and pipes, distributor venting plus ify electrics.[FONT=tms rmn"]

1991 model or later (from engine number 62M06836) have the oil leaks fixed.
1992 model or later (from engine number N01738 have the DMF fixed. 1989 cars (all C4s) did not have a DMF.
There are some quite expensive oil pipes that run through the right rear wheel arch that can leak and are visible. Otherwise the engine leaks cannot be seen without removing the undertray. Similarly I believe there is a small inspection hole and if you know what to look for you can spot a DMF ie leave them for the inspection and check receipts to see if work has been done. The only easy one is the distributor vent which is a piece of plastic pipe from the distributors to the cooling air shroud. The vent kit is a cheap and easy fix but if not done the belt drive between the distributors can break which can mean the engine firing at a VERY expensive time ie leading to a top end rebuild .
The 964 has galvanised body, so assuming the car is well looked after rust should not feature, however, check:
a) around windscreen rubbers
b) where windscreen wipers attach to body ( water collects here and doesn't drain away )
c) tight under headlamps ( road muck can gather here and difficult to clean )
d) sun roof drain holes (coupe)
Cabriolet and Targa roofs can leak. The main place to check for leaks are the rear footwells where water will gather. I've had my cab hood and all the seals replaced yet I've still got a problem. You will see adverts for replacing the hood for around £800, budget on doubling that if you need the seals, the roof lining, tension cables and plastic door linings done as well.
C2 v C4 ? The C2 gives the authentic Porsche driving experience which can include visits to the undergrowth if you overdo it a bit but in the dry and in the right hands it should be quicker than a C4. So if you are after a weekend dry weather car go for a C2. The C4 is a real all weather car, they can understeer a bit but that can be sorted by adjusting the steering geometry. For an everyday car go for the C4. All you will lose is 14% space in the luggage compartment plus a gain of 75kg for the extra transmission. Some will say it is extra complex but the whole car is so well engineered this is not an issue. The cars are very sensitive to tyres and pressures. Tyres need to be N rated and the same type all round. 36psi all round is a good start point, but some people tweak it a little to change the handling. I've also fitted a front strut brace, which tightened up the front a lot.[FONT=tms rmn"]

Tiptronic ?
a) Tames unpredictable power delivery & hence excitable rear end of C2 (not available on C4)
b) No clutch to burn out ( although there is probably lots else instead to go wrong )
c) Offers easy relaxing town driving in 'auto' mode, but still allows manual control of gears in 'tiptronic mode.
d) Can accelerate, some say, quicker than manuals due to elimination of human error ( just floor the accelerator and let the computer change gears at optimum revs with no missed gears)
e) Could be a bit boring
Manual ? Some people find the clutch is heavy on a 964, and tiring for a lot of town driving or use as an everyday car, I don't.
The A/C is well worth having - it does work quite effectively:
a) With a cabriolet, longer motorway journey's are a bit painful on the scalp and ears with the roof down, and with the roof up the cabin can be stuffy, so nice cold air is a Godsend. When it has rained, the inside of the windscreen can mist up more easily than in a tin-top, so the A/C is a necessity to clear the condensation quickly.
b) The car can get hot when the oil cooler fan kicked in, the oil return pipes go through the offside valance;
c) It will help on resale, as others will look for it as a "must have" option.
d) It works very well if well maintained. Most of them leak from the condenser. Don't take the old "it just needs topping up with gas" You may top it up but it will all leak out the condenser. So make sure the condenser is OK if you go with a/c. BTW: aprox GBP450 to fit a new one;
If you are going for a cab, definitely look for one with heated seats - these enable you to use the car year round with the roof down - it's fantastic going down the M4 at 7am in the middle of January with the sun shining, roof down and heated seats on full !!
How to buy ? The key thing is to get the service history and all the receipts available. Expect the car to have been serviced by an OPC for its first few years and then probably by a specialist. It is important that these cars are looked after by someone who really understands them. Once you've got an understanding of its history and want to go ahead, get it inspected by a specialist. Provide them with the analysis of receipts. They will give you a view and a list of the things that need doing and an indication of likely cost. You can then negotiate with the vendor. High mileage is not necessarily an issue as long as the car has been looked after. I'd rather have a high mileage one that had been used regularly than one which sat in a garage for weeks on end and was then driven in town or been thrashed around a track. At 120k they will probably be needing an engine rebuild pretty soon so budget £2 to £4k.[FONT=tms rmn"]

Authenticity ? Get the VIN number (inside the service book cover and on a plate in the luggage compartment). www.smartgroups.com has a decoder (and some good advice on buying). Don't be surprised if the date of registration is later than the year of manufacture. In the early 1990s the Porsche buying fraternity were a bit short of the readies and quite a few new cars sat around for a couple of years.

 

[godfrea]

thanks for the info guys. going to look at a car on saturday and this has given me a good heads up on what to look for

andrew

 

[John H]

I would add one more thing.

The well known achilles heels of the 964 are well listed above (oil leaks, dizzy belts, etc). While you need to pay close attention to these, don't overlook all the regular stuff too. Tyres, brake discs, caliper rebuilds, shockers, routine servicing, paintwork, interior refurb, etc etc. These cars are all circa 15 years old now, and this sort of stuff adds up (ask me how I know!)

One last thing. I know of at least 3 964s which have eaten their starter motors recently (mine included). It rather seems that this is one component which has just about reached the end of its days. Ask them to check it specifically if they can.

Good luck.

John H

 

[Fred Hindle]

You can add my name to the dead starter motor list (but it can removed without taking the engine out).
As for Tiptronic - brilliant - best of both worlds, auto in traffic (towns, motorway holdups) manual when you want it to be. How many 911 owners complain about the 'heavy clutch' in their cars?
Hope you find the right car.
Cheers,

 

[Guest]

So if your looking at selling your 3.2 could you furnish us with some details. I am in the market at the moment.

Db

 

[godfrea]

My 3.2 is a 1988 model, diamond blue metallic, black leather interior. No mods.?(hopefully the picture has attached it self)
Mileage is 124k.
Paid 14.5k to a dealer 2 years ago for it so looking in the region of 12.5k
Has been very realiable (1 dme relay failure last year thats all thats ever gone wrong).
Spent 1k on bodywork in first year tidying things up (bubbles under the bonnet badge and above rear light cluster).

still not seen the 964 i am looking for yet. One i looked at 2 weeks ago was disapointing so just waiting to see the right car.

Location is ipswich suffolk