3.2 Carrera - Brake Binding

[medazzling]

Hi
Went to take the car for a drive only to find the near side rear brake binding slightly; I would appreciate thoughts and guidance.

I think this is a job I could do myself, i am '3 out of 5' handy albeit I have not completed a task like this before (I have done many standard pad/disc changes on other cars). It would also save the trailer to my usual garage as its 25 miles away.

The existing caliper is about 10 years old but not done so many miles in reality, it actually looks pretty fresh. So would it be worth trying to do a caliper repair or in reality is this often a short/medium term fix only and best to just replace the caliper complete? Is a caliper home refurb reasonably straight forward? I have most general tools but no air line (i saw a few videos suggesting an air line is good to eject the pistons). Is it reasonable to just repair the single caliper only?

On refit, I would get a pressured brake fluid bleeding kit which seems the best method. Again, any comments from out there on whether this is a relatively straight forward process to bleed the small amount of air in the new caliper/nipple area having clamped the flexi to complete the job? Recommended brake fluid for the top up?

The other option I guess is to just buy a new refurbed caliper.

The rear pads/discs seem fine, only travelling a few miles since noting the binding was happening, so i assume its reasonable just to continue to use these but again just to check in case there is a concern; same comment for the offside brake caliper that seems ok, i assume ok to not touch this side?

(Anyone handy living around the Princes Risborough area would be prepared to give me a little help in exchange for a bacon sandwich is the other thought )

Sorry for the series of questions, just trying to focus on the best repair before getting into the finer detail, thanks in advance

Darren

 

[mesaboogieman]

Rebuilding a caliper is easy enough if you’re fairly practical. Its probably just a bit of rust at the top of the cylinder causing the piston to stick so it could soon be cleaned up with some emery cloth if it’s not too bad. The fluid needs changing every 3yrs at least regardless of use as it absorbs moisture which causes rust and braking problems.


This place is really good for anything from seal kits to full rebuilds—

https://www.biggred.co.uk/

 

[medazzling]

Thanks for this mesa, I appreciate the guide and comments. This sounds like a clean up and new seals etc after would be fine but I will look deeper into the options with Bigg Red as well. I guess there is no reason why I cant take the caliper off with a view to cleaning and new seals, if it looks a little worse than expected then change plan to a refurb as I dont want to be redoing the work in a years time.

If anyone has any further thoughts on the job or best techniques to stop the brake hose dripping whilst the caliper if off for example, also the system capacity and recommendation for brake fluid if there any specifics ... I will work it out if not, its only if someone knew from memory and simple to comment

Thanks

 

[sesame]

Hi Darren, I don't seem to get more than a few years out of fitting new seals. Perhaps it's the kits I've bought, definitely not the workmanship. It suited me well, and I got used to freeing up any stuck pistons after 2-3 years use. Take out the pad, press the pedal a few times - stop before the piston touches the disc as you can't then get the piston back. I put a thick piece of plastic in the gap but try to stop before the piston reaches it, remove and lever the piston back for a few cycles. Seems to last the rest of the year before fitting new seals in year 4. Probably worth doing calipers on both sides if they are the same age. A bottle of fluid will be enough to refresh the whole system, check what was used at the last service, original recommendation was dot 4 every 2 years. You can get clamps for the flexible hose. If changing the seals use the brake pedal to remove the pistons before disconnecting the pipe. The pistons have a cut-out and need to be orientated in the caliper correctly. I suggest you contact Charles, our Technical Advisor for tips and further advice - details in Porsche Post p107 ish. Steve

 

[medazzling]

Thanks Steve, great further advise and very clear on the descriptions thanks.

Interesting point on the seal change, I had a recollection from 10 years back when I had the calipers all changed, JZM did them and I am sure they said they could do the seals but felt it was likely i would be back in a couple of years. I decided to change all the units as i wanted the car long term and in fairness they have done well with my limited miles.

I think I will start with the trick to try and free the bad caliper, in a way this is useful just to get more familiar and confidence in the parts but i know it may not work and certainly wont be a long term plan.

Looking at the prices from Big Redd, recommended by Mesa above, the caliper was not a bad price.

See how I go and yes a good point on the link to Charles, I will get his input as well.

Cheers