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944 s2 springs?

AndrewMcDowell

Member
Member
Hello folks,
I'm currently refreshing the suspension on my 1990 944 s2. I'm fitting Bilstein B6's all round, on the front as inserts into the existing struts. So what i'm trying to work out is the springs. I can get standard and lowering but what I want is somewhere inbetween. I'd like to drop the car about 15 / 20mm and keep the spring rate as standard. This car is my daily driver so I don't want a harsh ride. Does anybody have any recommendations?
Take care, Andrew.
 
I think 968 CS springs might do the trick, but im not sure on the rates.

the CS springs are 20mm shorter than the coupe but same rate,

CS 944.343.531.09 904 ID blue £202 a pair
Coupe 944.343.531.04 904 ID beige £138.00 pair

the bit im not sure of is the spring rate between a late S2 and the 968

having checked on PET, listed spring for the S2 is the same as the coupe spring for the 968, but only for M031 or M757

the standard springs are 944.343.531.02 904 £282.72

 
the PET system says they are available
just give your local OPC a ring, or Steve Mathiot at East London Porsche, he knows his FE cars really well
 
its not going to be much, the 968 is a bit heavier at the front, from somewhere in this grey sponge in my head, the figure of 175lbs progressive "springs to mind"

I know they are the same as the coupe but 20mm shorter, also fitted to the sport as standard

 
So I finally got the front struts converted to accept the B6's and got them fitted with the CS springs before Christmas. What I seem to have now is when I go over a harsh speed bump or the like the springs 'twang'. Has anybody else encountered the same? And if so how did you stop it? Thanks, Andrew.
 
That's because they are shorter and when encountering bumps are probably coming loose in the spring pans on the rebound stroke.

You'd of been better off cutting the original spring pans off, and fitting 2.5" ID Race coils and helper springs, then the springs wouldn't clatter you could set and change the
ride height and also not lose the suspension travel. The B6's Inserts will and are used on stock ride heights and with lowered applications......

Did you adjust the rear ride height?

R
 
I don’t think they went to all that with helper springs on a standard CS

they used the same strut and wishbone and cups and top mounts on the clubsort and sport, the only change was the springs at 20mm shorter

so something must not be right the springs are under some compression with just the strut and spring assembled,

i know of at least 3 cars with B6 and CS springs and none of them have the issue of the cups rattling

thanks for your suggestions roger but you are complicating a simple issue, you don’t need race springs and cut and shut cups for road use.
 
I think there were 2 different diameters of spring fitted to the 944S2 , I think the earlier cars were larger dia and the later cars the same as 968, late turbo, this is only from experience of a single early S2 against a single late one,
Tony
 
Thanks folks, I think it's something to do with the compression. As in they are not under enough when not under load. Mine is a 1990 car so the should be ok for the later springs. Waylander could it be something to do with the fitting? I'm getting two refurbished wishbones fitted in the new year so can double check everything then. The rear shocks are yet to be fitted as D911 sent the wrong ones. Thanks, Andrew.


 
the only thing that springs to mind (sorry) is that the struts were not cut and welded at the correct points and the shock is rattling in the tube,

even with the cs shorter springs, you still need spring compressors to assemble the strut unit with the top mount, if the assembled unit is allowing the spring and cups to flap about something is very wrong


 
Hi, no we checked that, the shocks are tight in the tube. And the sound is defiantly a spring twang. Weirdly it does seem more on one side that the other. So in theory the 968 CS Springs should be under enough tension when used with converted struts and B6's?
 
there should be no difference in length of the assembled strut unit, as you can use B6 with standard springs and ride height
 
Waylander said:
thanks for your suggestions roger but you are complicating a simple issue, you don’t need race springs and cut and shut cups for road use.


You don't "need them" I agree, however using stock springs and platforms only allows for "fixed" spring rates and ride heights, which
if they are adjustable allow for far more fine greater tuning for road use.

The bottom spring being fixed doesn't allow the coil spring to move when the steering wheel turns, this can only happen on the top spring pan which is bolted tight
to the rubber top mount, maybe the top mount is worn or not as tight as possible??

R
 
Jack the front up off the ground, and check the springs are still compressed. Then turn the steering wheel lock to lock and see if you can replicate the noise.
 
I've just had a look over the assemblies on the car and everything 'looks' like it should. But I did notice something with the top mounts, the metal plate on top of the rubber, looks to now be sitting a few mm above the rubber? Is that correct?

IMG_0335 by mcdowella, on Flickr

 
AndrewMcDowell said:
I've just had a look over the assemblies on the car and everything 'looks' like it should. But I did notice something with the top mounts, the metal plate on top of the rubber, looks to now be sitting a few mm above the rubber? Is that correct?
IMG_0335 by mcdowella, on Flickr



Yes that's fine.........

R
 

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