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944 turbo - radiator replacment

yipadee

yipadee

New member
my radiator exploded a couple of weeks ago and tried to replace at weekend with a new/second hand one. However i couldn't get the old one out, i took off the top pipes etc but couldn't get ait out with the fans attached!

anyone got tips on how to replace, as i need to replace before the cotswold rally on 27th April and running out of weekends!

Thanks

Dan
 
I replaced mine about 3 years ago. Memory is a bit vague (but I do remember it was a bit of a pig!)
You do need to remove the fans from the rad. It also helps if you undo the bolts that hold the oil cooler which is mounted at the bottom of the rad (dont remove the cooler, just undo the bolts and let it hang out of the way).
There is really not a lot of room, but it will come out from the top (I think non-turbo rads are removed from underneath). I think I also removed the ditributor cap, which gives a tiny amount more room. Whatever you do, be gentle with it - it would be very easy to damage the fins on the new rad by trying to force it in, and you dont want to have to do the job all over again!
 
how did u get the fans off before moving the rad, do the connections pull of the back of the fans as or i guess when the oil cooler, dist cap and the bar across the top holding pipe is removed you can move around alot more.

thanks steve will give it a try, got all pipes off and from memory the only thing as you say was the oil cooler pipe and dist cap.

i tried to undo the connection on the oil cooler pipe as attached to a ridged metal pipe running across the rad but couldn't budge the nut. Looking up a saw the connection to the rad looks a bitch to get to tho will give it a go, is right pain as have to work on in the street!

any issues with air locks i should be aware of!
cheers

dan

 
re the fans, they are bolted on to the rad and the electrics are on multiplugs, so you can just pull them off. Once you have got the fans out of the way you should be ok.
You do need to be careful of air locks when you come to refill the water. Jack up the front of the car so that the bleed valve (somewhere near the inlet manifold from memory) is as high as possible. Also make sure that the heater controls are set to hot. I was a bit paranoid after bleeding mine so for peace of mind I took it to a garage and got them to pressure test the whole system. Only took a few minutes and was pretty cheap.
 
ORIGINAL: steve 944t
Also make sure that the heater controls are set to hot.
Click to expand...

Not necessary. The heater control simply controls the blender flap which mixes hot and cold air - it does not control a water valve into the heater matrix. The water flows into the heater matrix regardless. When I changed the cooland in my S2 (to renew fan temp sender) it was easy to bleed through the dedicated bleed valve near the front of the inlet manifold. I would have thought the turbo to be similar.
 
thanks all for your help i'll let u know how i get on this weekend !

in addition when i corner hard left or right water runs into the footwell getting me feet wet, any ideas what this might be?

Thanks

Dan
 
ORIGINAL: 944Turbo

What is the vacuum operated valve in the coolant pipe for then?
Tony
Click to expand...

I don't know. My car doesn't have one. Seems to be on cars with a/c which the turbos have. In that case move it to hot if it makes you happy.

 
my 86 lux without a/c also had one so may be an 8 valve thing, until we know for sure I would go with heater on full hot while bleeding the coolant as reccomended,
Tony
 
thanks for all your help i got the rad fixed and only had to take off the dizzie cap and not the oil pipe thank good ness, took over an hour to get all the air locks out tho. I can now make to costswold ralley this coming weekend, pending any more probs!![:D]
 
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