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944 Turbo S wheel refurb colour choices

Wallachie

Member
Any suggestions for a colour code for a set of Turbo S forged alloys?

initially thought M7Z GT Silver would work, but I mixed some up today and painted an old wheel and it looks a bit dark?

Dont think I want a bright modern silver, as they probably weren't a bright silver to begin with.

Has anyone had a set refurbished, if so what colour did you choose, and do you have any pics?

Thanks.

SaPFR5

 
Although needing work this wheel gives an indication of the original finish, as James states they were anodised and lacquered which is hard/expensive/impossible to redo on old contaminated alloy, perhaps vapour blasting, fine wire wool, clear lacquer ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/122316313071
 
Wallachie said:
Any suggestions for a colour code for a set of Turbo S forged alloys?
initially thought M7Z GT Silver would work, but I mixed some up today and painted an old wheel and it looks a bit dark?
Dont think I want a bright modern silver, as they probably weren't a bright silver to begin with.
Has anyone had a set refurbished, if so what colour did you choose, and do you have any pics?
Thanks.



Yes originally they were bare metal lathe machined and then clear etch anodised, this is difficult to find people that
do this although I know a few in the UK if you want them original ? It'll probably be around ÂŁ700

I'm presuming your Painting them with Body panel wet paint ? 2K or colour and 2K clear?
Powdercoating will last longer used with dry paint primer / wet high temp 200degree bake and clear powder lacquer.

All car wheels new are powdercoated, only the man in a van and bodyshops use body wet solvent or water based wet paints
& 2K lacquer

There are no codes for wheels, hence wheel refurb & Restoration companies will ether buy in a colour already made up by a paint supplier who try to replicate it without any recipe!, or bodyshops make up a suitable shade / colour by eye by mixing black and silver paint.

Your right the colour shades used on wheels like a D90 is actually quite grey silver and not bright at all, but although this colour may look a little dark it suits the classic 944 well.

M7z gt is a Porsche modern? Body colour I'm guessing?

R

 
PAUL RUDDY said:
Although needing work this wheel gives an indication of the original finish, as James states they were anodised and lacquered which is hard/expensive/impossible to redo on old contaminated alloy, perhaps vapour blasting, fine wire wool, clear lacquer ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/122316313071



I have contacts for lathe machining, anodising & polishing if anyone needs? unless the wheel is so badly pitted from corrosion and the holes are so large (1mm) that re-machining metal off still leaves holes (Which is very rare) they are no problem to do the only part that's not easy is the cost!

Vapour blasting leaves a sheen, wire wool or Skotch pads will put fine scratches over this and then any lacquer wet 2K or Dry powder will then kill the shine and the wheels will look dull and nothing like the lathe polished original finish where refractions of light reflect and look bright also known as "Diamond cut"

R
 
Turbo S rims are not suitable for machining to remove damage as they are thin/lightweight to begin with, the unique design is also lost when over machined, which is less of an issue when the hub parts from the rim ....!!
 
PAUL RUDDY said:
Turbo S rims are not suitable for machining to remove damage as they are thin/lightweight to begin with, the unique design is also lost when over machined, which is less of an issue when the hub parts from the rim ....!!


Hub parts from the Rim! Blimey I've never heard, seen or read of this happening from Wheel Restoration lathe machining?
(Over the last 20 years)

Sure, dependent on how deep the holes are from corrosion machining could loose some or all of the scribe design, but if they
were so bad in the first place a machinist would see this and also advise they cannot take this much metal away.

The anodising is a very tough durable finish and most of them although decades old last very well and don't corrode
as bad as painted and lacquered wheels.

Fuchs Windmill wheels are also anodised and they can also be machined unless as above the pitting is too severe, then the option
is a Painted finish

R
 
I had mine powder coated black ;)

Turbo S wheels are notoriously thin around the spokes, unfortunately it is all too common to see sets for sale where the detail from edges of the spokes are lost (the bits that differentiate them from D90s) and the centre caps sits proud. I'd run a mile from such a set - an accident waiting to happen!

It has been said that the forged 928-style slots can be machined into CS wheels as the area to be milled out is even marked on the back of the faces.
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

924Srr27l said:
Wallachie said:
Any suggestions for a colour code for a set of Turbo S forged alloys?
initially thought M7Z GT Silver would work, but I mixed some up today and painted an old wheel and it looks a bit dark?
Dont think I want a bright modern silver, as they probably weren't a bright silver to begin with.
Has anyone had a set refurbished, if so what colour did you choose, and do you have any pics?
Thanks.



Yes originally they were bare metal lathe machined and then clear etch anodised, this is difficult to find people that
do this although I know a few in the UK if you want them original ? It'll probably be around ÂŁ700

I'm presuming your Painting them with Body panel wet paint ? 2K or colour and 2K clear?
Powdercoating will last longer used with dry paint primer / wet high temp 200degree bake and clear powder lacquer.

All car wheels new are powdercoated, only the man in a van and bodyshops use body wet solvent or water based wet paints
& 2K lacquer

There are no codes for wheels, hence wheel refurb & Restoration companies will ether buy in a colour already made up by a paint supplier who try to replicate it without any recipe!, or bodyshops make up a suitable shade / colour by eye by mixing black and silver paint.

Your right the colour shades used on wheels like a D90 is actually quite grey silver and not bright at all, but although this colour may look a little dark it suits the classic 944 well.

M7z gt is a Porsche modern? Body colour I'm guessing?


Hi,

Yes M7Z is a modern Porsche colour, first seen on the CGT I believe, then on 997's etc.

For this job the company is using powder coating for the primer, then 2k solvent metallic for the colour, then finished with powder coat clear coat. This allows me to be able to choose any silver I want, rather than an off the shelf powder coat silver.

I have looked at so many silver colour chips here in the shop that I have myself totally confused!

Might ask him to do one wheel in GT Silver to see how it looks and then take it from there.
 
Wallachie said:



Thanks for the replies guys.
Hi,
Yes M7Z is a modern Porsche colour, first seen on the CGT I believe, then on 997's etc.
For this job the company is using powder coating for the primer, then 2k solvent metallic for the colour, then finished with powder coat clear coat. This allows me to be able to choose any silver I want, rather than an off the shelf powder coat silver.
I have looked at so many silver colour chips here in the shop that I have myself totally confused!
Might ask him to do one wheel in GT Silver to see how it looks and then take it from there.



I can understand the 3 Material process (Powder Primer / Wet Colour / Powder Lacquer) but the Powder (Primer & Lacquer) are both
baked at 200 degrees, which body paint cannot withstand and most pigments go brown.

You also mentioned 2K Silver, 2K if you know stands for 2 pack which is a colour and a Clear Hardener which when both mixed
together and cured at 80deg max, not 200degs.

So I'm not only unsure why a Hardener and paint would be used for the Colour? as 2K will not withstand 200 degs, or also
why this company is using body paint sandwiched inbetween powder primer and lacquer ?

As you said the range of Silvers and colours in general is very limited with powder because of the high temps, is it an experiment?
And who's doing this work out of interest?

R



 
Nothing wrong with explanations of a process that many owners may be offered -I have to say I've never come across a painting system which mixes a wet process with a stoved dry powder just like you wouldn't normally mix alkyds with cellulose or epoxies etc where the solvents interact .
And,the posts may involve elementary chemistry but are no more technically loaded than some of the posts about fuelling ,injection systems or even spring/rebound rates for suspension components.

One shouldn't be scornful about this knowledge being so freely shared.

 
vitesse said:
Nothing wrong with explanations of a process that many owners may be offered -I have to say I've never come across a painting system which mixes a wet process with a stoved dry powder just like you wouldn't normally mix alkyds with cellulose or epoxies etc where the solvents interact .
And,the posts may involve elementary chemistry but are no more technically loaded than some of the posts about fuelling ,injection systems or even spring/rebound rates for suspension components.
One shouldn't be scornful about this knowledge being so freely shared.



Well said, some people are just plain rude.
A very high percentage of OE wheels and aftermarket are powder coated with the 3 material system.

No names mentioned but I've been a director and Painter of a Wheel Restoration company since 2007.

For those that have had items powdercoated, ARB's, brackets, struts etc....this is done most of the time with (1) material
EG A Black dry paint Hence the name (powder) applied with an electrostatic charged gun and then baked (Stove enamel is another word for powdercoating it's same thing, Stove is baked, Enamel is Paint etc..)

Some components have the one material colour half baked on, then a clear dry lacquer is applied on top for another bake then it's fully cured & done.
You cannot get a Nice Silver in one powder, it tends to be dull and grey.

The only way as all OE wheels you can get nice looking colours is to sandwich a wet colour between a powder primer and a clear powder lacquer. Each stage is done separately , with the components cooled inbetween and this could mean the primer is applied on a Monday, the colour on a Tuesday and the lacquer Wednesday etc..

The Wet colour can be water based or solvent, but as I mentioned before it has to be specific High temp (200 Degs) Paint which any body code paint from a supplier will not withstand this heat as Bodyshops typically bake your car and panels at 80 degs

However I have experimented over many years and SOME Body wet paints do hold up, they tend to be anything green and darker, lighter colours go brown!

R




 
Turning or skimming the CS forged wheels is not a good idea, certainly for track use, yes they can break the spokes. I've seen 2 broken, one had been quite lightly skimmed once, one maybe once but more heavily or possibly twice lightly.
I had a set cleaned and powder coated, but didn't like them on the car and went back to my old discs, which are the same forgings as the CS, but obviously have much shorter spokes. They have been skimmed once which I think is OK on these wheels and no track use.
 

[/quote]

Well said, some people are just plain rude.

[/quote]


Here we go again......

In future all questions will be answered by Roger because everyone else will give up and leave the forum.
 
Wuining another thread Wodger?

Other members should be aware that Wodger was banned from the 924OC forum and had his club membership subs refunded after acting as he is here.
 

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