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944 Wheel Alignment

rcsalmons

rcsalmons

New member
Hello Guys

I'm planning on having a wheel alignment done on the car soon. The car is currently off the ground on stands and I'm thinking I should go through all the relevant bolts etc to make sure nothing is seized. The front end is not an issue as this has been completely stripped and rebuilt over winter with new nuts/bolts etc.
My concern is the rear what should I be checking / freeing up? The eccentric was done last summer so that is OK, anything else?

Rich
 
When I first had my S2 done, the chap did say that the rears are often seized because not everywhere has the kit/tools to do this so I just soaked everything in sight with WD40 a week beforehand. He said that the rear camber adjuster was still a bugger to free up and they charged me an extra hours labour. IIRC there are pretty good pics of the adjusters in the workshop manuals, which showed me everything to squirt back then.

Promax did mine again a few years later and the boys reported no problems with adjusting so the fact that they are done regularly probably makes it easier.
 
I'm booked in to have one done up here in Scotland next week and have been quoted £50""75 depending on how long it takes.
 
Willie at CLCM in Edinburgh. I'm told by all and sundry that he's the man for the job in Central Scotland, so was pleasantly surprised to hear his prices.
 
Never tried him - I used Motortune in Shotts and front-end-only geo check/adjust was approx £45, so £75 for the full thing sounds in line with that.
 
Does anyone know of a garage in London who does this service, my porsche specialist is charging £140 all-in for the job. Hopefully I can lower this price!!

Seb
 
If they don't have the Porsche special tool, which costs about £20, I wouldn't let anyone adjust the rear geo.
 
I supplied my Porsche tool together with the relavent wsm pages to the local garage. He spent most of the day trying to get it right and still failed. Certainly there is a technique that requires some experience.

Some recommend welding an extension to the spigot on the standard tool to achieve more leverage.
 
Chris Franklin set up my car too, and although He'd obviously set up plenty of frontrunners it wasn't a quick job. Like you say there's probably a knack, and it doesn't involve modifying the special tool...
 
The knack is having all of the fittings and thrust faces free, plus having the aforementioned tool. If I can do it on my lockup floor with little space on my back working around strings, then any decent mechanic with the right kit should be able to do this!!

If the trailing arms haven't been off the car for a long time, then I recommend having the mechanic remove and clean the fittings and thrust faces on the trailing arms and spring plates. Sorry I can help on recommendations on who to use though!
 
You set the camber and castor with strings ? I borrowed a camber gauge to get mine near but there was a lot of faffing about fitting and removing the wheels between adjustments, and fortunately my garage floor was level.
 
Yes. I have a digital camber gauge (home-built using a magnetic digital inclinometer) I use as well as the strings, on a level floor of course! I slacken everything off at the rear and start by setting the camber before setting up the strings, then do toe and recheck camber and likewise toe if further adjustment is required. Then nip everything and recheck. All adjustments at the rear are made with the car on the deck.

Its a bit of a faff but it can be done and done well! Being as I'm making ongoing changes it makes sense for me to do it myself.
 
I was going to suggest getting some turn plates until I checked the price of them [:(]. DIY slip plates are cheap though.
 
Where are you in Oxford if your the London side Promax are north of Aylesbury they do loan cars and they have everything to set your suspension up correctly
 
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