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987.2, driver's window mechanism failed

911hillclimber

PCGB Member
Member
My driver's side window mech failed today at 0 deg C. Bit of a crack when I opened the door, glass dropped a few mm and now it will not work, open/close or fully extend when door closed. Thus the glass is about 5mm down on closed. Activating the interior switch to Down starts a light click-click-click etc about 1 second inverval and only stops when the window button is pressed Closed.

Thus I fear the window mech has shed a tooth or similar inside. Before I embark on the adventure of removing the door card I would like to ask if anyone can advise on the failure and how to deal with the air bag, or any hints and tips.
Passenger side perfect!
The car has had a weather cap over the top for several days but ice must have formed inside the door.
Thanks, Graham.
 
That’s bad luck Graham. Unfortunately I can’t help other than to point you to online sources.

I’d be interested to hear how you get on with removing the door card. Coincidentally, the plastic front hinge on my driver’s side door pocket lid has snapped where it joins lid and it seems that access can only be gained from the rear, necessitating removal of the door card. Alarmingly, it looks as though a replacement lid is about £400! 😲 Maybe I’ll be able to glue the hinge back on, but I suspect that will only prove to be a temporary repair.

There seem to be a lot of YouTube videos showing how the door card is removed, and plastic pry tools look to be a necessity. It appears as though a lot of force is required to pull off the card once the numerous Torx screws have been removed, so be prepared to replace some of the fasteners.

Good luck!

Jeff

 
Indeed, and plastic clips and Zero Deg C don't go together. Have the plastic tools, did the wing miror on my Skoda Superb the other month.

Not sure how to sort the air bag out, not a good thing to go off in your face.

Suppose you simply disconnect the battery when doing the job which I'm sure will give rise to other issues!

Good game.

Pity as the car is running so well nowadays.

 
Oddly enough there’s no mention of disconnecting the battery just to remove the door card, but if you’re delving further into the door mechanisms I would think it advisable to do so Graham to avoid the possibility of the airbag being triggered inadvertently.

I can’t recall offhand precautions to take when disconnecting the battery … leave the key in the ignition maybe?

Jeff

 
Yes, the bag should not go off if the car is not running as the sensor is not disturbed, but with such an explosive right at your face...

The bag is on the inner panel so comes off though you leave it connected.

If I just disconnect the battery I'm sure I will loose some codes, security and radio are the most likely and bound to be a pain in their own right.

Found Project #77 in the excellent Dempsey book, 101 projects for your Boxster.

Although mainly for 986/987.1 the principles are much the same I think.

Time to do some homework.

 
Pulling the door card is demonstrated in this video.

[link]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQT8HlQH8Fo[/url]

If going near the airbag then disconnect battery and give it 15 mins or so to make sure any charge is dissipated. Don't reconnect battery without the airbag in place, you will get the normal PSM error after reconnect ( slow drive around the block and it resolves/recalibrates ) and you will need to re teach the windows top and bottom limit positions ( open the window all the way, let go of the switch, "open" it again and hold for 5 secs, repeat for close ). Get yourself some replacement clips, cheap from OPC or online suppliers.

If it's failed because it was frozen - then treating the seals with Gummipfledge helps, also I have read that dusting with talc also reduces the chances of them freezing.

Good luck

 
911hillclimber said:
Yes, the bag should not go off if the car is not running as the sensor is not disturbed, but with such an explosive right at your face...

The bag is on the inner panel so comes off though you leave it connected.

If I just disconnect the battery I'm sure I will loose some codes, security and radio are the most likely and bound to be a pain in their own right.

Found Project #77 in the excellent Dempsey book, 101 projects for your Boxster.

Although mainly for 986/987.1 the principles are much the same I think.

Time to do some homework.

No radio codes on the 987 - headunits are coded to the vehicle VIN number. Also - no need to do the "key in position 1" thing for the alarm - the 987 alarm doesn't trigger when you disconnect the battery.

 
Thank you both very much for your help. I hate all the modern car 'interlocks' with all the complexity, what happened to Simple?

The Dempsey book gives good detail and also the 15 mins on the air bag after taking the - ve lead off.

If only the weather was warmer!

The garage is full of the race car and my lovely simple 911 so any repairs would have to be outside.

Have asked Zuffenhaus how much to do the job. Bit (lot) of a cop-out, but the new regulator is £100 ish from Design911 and Dempsey recons an hour to do it, might be worth it if I can wait for it to be done.

Otherwise, it will have to wait until the weather warms up!

 
Ha-ha! Same here Graham. Insufficient room in my garage to open the door to work on the door card, so it’ll have to be an outside job for my door pocket lid work.

Unlike your problem mine’s non-critical and can wait until summer; or more likely hand it over to a specialist for the sake of an hour labour. I still can’t get over the ridiculous cost of a replacement lid in leather at c£500! 😲

Jeff

 
The dat arrived, I was going to replace this window regulator myself, Brave? Foolish more like.

I hate modern cars when they go wrong, evey thing is plactic, clips, awkward and complicated, just hate them

In hindsight, should have simply taken the car to Zuffenhaus and paid £327 and droive home.

But I didn't and here are the lows (lots of them) and highs (one) of my 5 hours in the cleared garage, and the job is not yet finished.

Got the 1073 911 going and out of the garage, started first time, all gears ok etc, just as it has always been.

Rolled the Lola race car out and went to the Boxster so i could drive it into the empty space.

No.

Car was totally dead, key did nothing and I could not wake it up. Charged the battery for 6 hours 6 days ago, so that should be ok.

After a LOT of messing about managed to get both front inner arch covers off the car. Removed the drivers side and no hood release wire. Stripped the passenger side, and found this wire with no ball on the end (has someone been here before?)

Mole grips on the end of the wire, suitable swear words fully employed and the wire eventually moved a touch and with another word it pulled and the front bonnet opened.

JUST WHO thought this was a good idea at Porsche? The apprentice? Utter rubbish.

The action pulls the front carpet off the inside of the boot sides and all that, what a mess.

Put the battery on charge, but it took only 3 amps, not what I was expecting.

Disconnected the battery (to kill the air bag) and the alarm went off.... Found the alarm with the help of the entire cul-de-sac who were 'alarmed' and it carried on going. The internal battery failed after 10 'alarms' , I disconnected it to kill the din.

Reconnected the battery (for some reason) and the central locking worked! (WHY?). Still this meant I could start the car and get it into the garage. It started really well.

With the driver's door open now, the door car was removed (Google Instructors were my best friend).

Removed the screws holding the window motor and the broken mangled regulator drive wire was evident. At least I had the right replacement part.

With 60 mins now elapsed, the air bag was disconnected, the million wires in 3 clusters to the motor removed (modern electrical connectors are nice), unclipped the door latch release cable (so simple!) and removed the inner cover panel away from the door, but not right off as access to the regulator is HUGE.

I was hoping I would remember all these connections!

Removed the old regulator in 3 parts, it is a one piece assembly normally and put it to one side.

Adjusted the new unit to emulate the glass positions of the original (did not work out too well), removed the glass having marked the registration of the glass to the clamps front and rear, cleaned it all, and put the new regulator in the door.

After some frustrating time got the housing that mates to the motor onto the inner panel and screwed it all back tight, wires replaced correctly, and reconnected the air bag.

Loosed the door card in place and wires re-done and NOTHING worked. I hadn't pushed the one motor connector fully home, needed 1mm more.

Tested again, windows go up and down both sides, but the glass is not quite square to the soft top, the rear edge is only just touching the soft top, but both windows drop on opening etc. The drivers glass does not go from open to closed in one shot, so i think the memory needs setting now.

Put the rest of the door back together and tested 3 times, all ok bar the position memories.

Having had enough of this I bravely closed the front bonnet, and it opened normally on the key, the boot too, and all the locks are ok.

Drove the thing out of the garage and noted the PSM light is on the dash ! "PSM failed" I hope there is a diy re-set for this?

Tomorrow morning is a re-fitting of the wheel arched with front wheels removed, set the window memories, BUT only once the glass is right. I notice there are 4 large grommets on the door underside. 2 are to secure the bottom of the window runner guides and there are 2 more close to them.

I'm hoping that with the window down, you get access to the glass position adjusters so to fine tune the glass fit to the soft top seals. Time will tell.

In all this it is best to keep in mind that the factory would do all this very quickly so there is always a simple solution, they just keep it all a secret.

 
Sounds a bit of a nightmare Graham. I think I’d have chickened out and taken the Zuffenhaus route myself, but well done for persevering with it.

As you say, removing modern car trim is always fraught with problems, with all the clips and fasteners which are designed to stop rattles. They’re great for fixing, but don’t appear to be designed for unfastening without breaking! Out of interest, did you manage to remove the door cards without any of the fasteners either breaking or popping off?

I always find electrical connectors a bit fiddly, with some pulling apart easily and others requiring the release of tiny and sometimes inaccessible tabs. Plus, there are so many different types of connector … why???

Good to hear that you’ve resolved your “PSM Failed” message issue, with Richard H coming to your rescue together with his useful list which I was going to suggest before Richard C pipped me to the post.

Hope the fine tuning of the window’s seating works out OK.

Jeff

 
Graham ...

Is it possible to extend the manual release cable back out through the arch liner for easier access ?

I must thank you for the `heads up` on this as in our recent freeze I recalled your issue when defrosting - opening a BMW with the same drop down windows. I sprayed de-icer and WD40 at the glass - seal interfaces, it was still sticky - awkward though ...

The top - roof window channel, where the glass sits `home` holds moisture and it also freezes on the inside surface. I subsequently cleaned them out with WD40 ... may have to be a Winter preventative maintenance routine :rolleyes:

 
by 911hillclimber » Thu Dec 22, 2022 5:00 pm

Finished the pesky Boxster off this morning. Adjusted the tilt of the glass to fit the top better (not as good as factory) and put all the plastic back on, then some more and then the last bit... Reset the PMS and that light has now gone off the dash, got the window registered and it now has single shot in both directions. Great? No, there is something catching when winding down. So annoying, but will be ok till I've had a rest, then strip the door again. At lest I shouldn't have to faff about with the flat batter thing, but the battery was not flat, just the locking did not work.... All central locking now works, so car back to normal. I broke 4 door card clips, but bought 6 new ones (£2 each) from Des 911 with the replacement window mechanism. I did indeed 'modify' the pathetic cable fitted by the factory. I screwed (tightly) an in line connector from a 240V chock block to the car cable, and had a good length of bike brake cable to hand, so fastened that to the connector. Then passed this extension to the spot close to the side indicator light in the front wing and mad a big loop. My hope it if this happens agaon, I can 'open' the lower wing inner slash panel (one torx screw), and straight at hand will be the loop just behind but exposed. Pass a screw driver blade through the loot and pull bloody hard. This position is as straight a pull as can be. At least i can say all this to the RAC man I might call next time! Gave it a wash and forgave it for this hiccup.
 
Couldn't stand the catching noise, so took it all apart again today as it was dry.

Noted a few things:

Nothing obviously catching. Moved the glass up and down (all inner panels off the door) and all cables away from the glass path.

Took the mechanism out and reversed how the cables cross over, this seemed to push the other cable runs away from the glass run.

Found out that the one cable clip that comes on the new part was in the wrong place, and the clip is used to really get the cable runs close to the inner door panel.

Re positioned that clip and threaded the pull tie through the hole waiting once I removed the factory clip. Inner panel on and pulled the clip tight.

Got it all back together and tested it before putting the inner door card back on.

Silent, up and down, one shot working, glass drop working, central locking working and after the reset, the PSM light is off the dash.

We are back in business.

Soon be summer!



 

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