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993 & Emissions

John Lee

New member
Had my 1995 993 for a year now (after years of longing of course) and duly took it down to the MOT station after having completed only 2K in 12 months.

The car failed on Emissions which were fine 12 months ago but were now showing C02 at 0.3% volume (1.3% volume).

Anyone had similar experience ? Is the solution to replace the cat converters ? (looks like a lot of money - Porschehsop quoting nearly £3K !!

Or is there another solution such as sensors ? Or can I "decat" by using a bypass ? Would this mean unacceptable decibels or given MOT passable emissions. ?

Any hints/guidance much appreciated . Possible solutions or is it a remortgage situation ?

John
 
from what i understand a hot engine will give very different readings to a cold one, hot may pass where cold could fail

was the MOT place familiar with porsche ?
 
How many miles on it?

It shouldn't fail if it's got standard exhaust system and ECU.

I understand the cats do start to fail after a number of years (certainly less than 10) but I haven't heard of this causing MOT problems, only lowering power.

Maybe good excuse to get 100 cell cats!?
 
I agree with PP - I always take mine for a fast run before MOT. A number of issues can influence emmissions including quality of fuel (Stale ?) state of ignition system/Plugs/Airfilter etc. I would thoroughly investigate before even thinking about changing the CAT
 
Agreed. My MOT boy always warms it up fully before testing ( the car, that is - no sniggering at the back!)

JohnC
993turbo
 
Ok, here is a crash course on emissions [8|]

Firstly to correct or confirm some of the above....

Your car didn't fail on CO2, they don't test CO2, it failed on CO (carbonmonoxide). The limit at fast idle is 0.3% so I'm assuming that the 1.3% is the actual reading that yours is producing.

A cold engine or cold cat will read higher on CO and a failed cat can block (causing power loss) or fail chemically (causing MOT fail) or both. De-cat pipes are virtually guaranteed to result in an MOT fail for reasons explained below.

The "Italian tuneup" is good advice, a good thrash on the road will heat up the cat much more effectively than reving it at the mot station because you are pumping more hot air through the system. As well as getting the cat to a working temperature, if the car does mostly local runs it may also need to burn any contamination off the surface of the cat before it works correctly - this can take some miles to achieve.

The engine management system is designed to re-tune itself whenever the engine is warm and at a steady rpm (idle or cruise). It uses the oxygen sensors (lambda sensors) in the exhaust manifolds to see if it is running rich or weak and then adjusts the fuel up and down to trim the mixture. If this system is working ok the result would be around 0.7-1.0% CO. The catalytic converters job is to scrub these emissions down further by combining the CO, HCs (hydrocarbons or unburnt fuels), and O2 (unburnt oxygen) to create CO2 and H2O. The final result is very low CO and HCs but an increase in CO2 - lesser of the evils!

Given that your CO reading is above 1% it is unlikely that the cat is the sole cause of the fault, though possible as it is only just above this figure. What were the other readings on the fail sheet? In particular I'd be interested to hear what the lambda reading was; this is a calculation of the air to fuel ratio (afr) based on the exhaust gasses. Lambda 1 is the perfect 14.7:1 afr and the normal MOT limits are 0.97-1.03. They use higher and lower limits because artificially lowering the mixture could easily create an MOT pass on CO but it would result in excesive NOx (oxides of nitrogen) emissions due to the weak mixture burning at higher temperatures. NOx is difficult to test for as it tends to occur under load so they include lambda in the test as an easy alternative.

If the cat is entirely to blame for your MOT fail then I would expect the lambda reading to be within limits and possibly slightly high (say 1.00-1.03) but if the lambda reading was slightly low (say 0.95-0.98) then this indicates that the car is running genuinely rich and has a problem aside from the cat.

I'd say that next step would be a good run and retest . If that fails then repost the full results and it would also be useful to know how consistent the readings are - ie are they moving up and down much during the test or staying very stable. With this info we might be able to draw some more conclusions but ultimately you may be in need of some further testing on the car to confirm the fault.

HTH [;)]

Steve
 
Steve, many thanks for such a comprehensive response. I shall do the simple part first and go for a long run and retest next week and then provide some feedback on this forum. I will post the figures and also any feedback from the specialist I can gleen.

Thanks again.
John
 
[8|]quick question about the 'long run' advice,

I'd always been told to work the engine hard - i.e leave the engine in a lower gear for higher revs, more heat for the Italien Tune-Up[8D]....essentially red-lining it for 15 mins at least....

just wondered - presume this would be better than simply going for a long drivce at 'good' speed - yes that wodul get up to normal running temps, but if done in 6th gear would not work the engine as hard, not as much heat generated.

or do the emgine parts that need buring off have a 'terminal temperature'??[8|]

Thanks
T[&:]
 
Another famous myth [&:]

The best way to warm the cat is to shift the maximum volume of hot air through it. This isn't done my max revs, it's done by wide throttle openings.

Assuming that you aren't planning to top out in sixth gear where you would probably need full throttle to maintain the speed due to wind resistance, thrashing a car to the red line and then holding it there would mean backing off the throttle once you reached the target rpm that you have chosen. Although you are spinning the engine very fast you are then restricting the flow of hot gasses into the cat by backing off. It is also a rather unsympathetic thing to do to your engine [:(].

The best way is to find a nice open (preferably uphill) stretch of road and do a series of acceleration runs in, say, third or fourth gear from mid to full revs. Fourth is better because you will have a longer period of full throttle acceleration pushing hot air through the cat. Obviously, this suggests that doing it in sixth would be best but at some stage you need to look at the max speed that you would hope to be achieving and the odds of still keeping your licence[;)]. Once you have hit max revs or thereabouts, back off and allow the engine braking to slow you back down to the mid range again and then get back on the gas. Repeat until warm!

Taking it on a trackday would probably have the desired effect as well [8D]
 
I usually warm the engine by gentle driving first and then do some acceleration runs. Always make sure your oil level is ok before doing this.
 

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