ORIGINAL: Hendrik
I read some info on the net and all they say is that our cars engines are too advanced to do an exhaust gas analysis for better tuning values etc. Our cars do it automatically. Nothing to improve on. So that probably answers my question...nothing to be done, its perfect all the time with the best fuel air mix in the cylinders and same with the timing. Years ago one could find the optimum timing setting while the engine is under load and running at speed on the dyno rollers.
Remapping and chipping is another issue and will affect warranty - so not to be pursued.
Sorry mate - there is a word starts with B ends in S. I haven't messed with my engine per se. I have remapped the engine software , improved the exhaust and air intakes and gained approx 60hp on a dyno and about 50lb of torque. More importantly the peak torque comes much lower down and the curve is wider so it significantly improves drivability.
The bad news as well is Prosches; quoted power figures are for the engine with no othe car components on a dyno table in a large cool room with all the air it would ever need forced into it. Fabspeed and other tuners regularly DYNO AVERAGE 339BHP FOR A Gen CS with a conseravtive DIN standard corrction.
When the car is not moving at high speed it doesn't get enough air in it to generate full power. The air gets hot from the engine bay, the exhaust system doesn't remove the gasses quickly enough and things like driveshafts, power steering, aircon create losses
So while you might get near 380hp under cetain conditions it'll be at or near vmax on an autobahn on a cold winter/spring morning (denser air).
On a UK road at 70mph=ish revving the nuts of ti in 3rd on a warm summers day, sorry you'll be well down on power
The engnes themselves are fantastic - as per Alan's point very conservatively set up. Revo tecknic or DMS or even a Cargraphic bespoke remap will optimise engine smoothness, responsiveness and in gear performance for European fuels 95/99 RON - bear in mind the std software has to cope with 91 RON in south america with bits of sugar beet floating in it. It Also sacrifices some fule efficiency for more power and higher carbon emissions (evil). So on a long run with cruise on at medium speed on motoway the leaner burn gets better fuel consumption but use the rigth foot and flex it the extra fuel supplied more freely and more efficient burn means worse fuel consumption.
Once you've had an engine remap you won't want to go back it feels so much more together and if properly done a) its full revesable 2) Yes it invalidates you warranty in the Uk but DMS and Revo work with the Studgart engineers to define the parameters - so for DMS and REVO i shouldn't effect reliabaility of the engine - Clutches, breaks and tryes are a different keltte of fish. To quote an ex porsche race engneeer after remapping my car - if the enigne goes, it was going to go anyway. 3) it eliminate flat spots in the engines respsone you won't know you have until the remap is in place. Revo do a 5 hour try before you buy.
Air intakes - heavy, designed to be durable wth idiots handling them and big heavy safe but ineffcient filtes. Too small and heavilly restricts air into the engine - a big step up is to put a propr air intake and high performance filter - again more responsive throttle, more acceleration, worse fuel consumption (you get more air in quicker you can burn more fuel and get more power). K&N or Fabspeed make great ones. EVOMS is also jolly good.
Exhausts - Miltek or Cargraphic probably the most popular and 2 of the best - but there are others that are very good. I have the Miltek - much lower back pressure improves troque and low down grunt in combination witht he remap. Even better with the intake, filter and remap. its also at least 12kgs lighter thant he std exahust ( the intakes are lighter, the upgrades OEM brakes are lighter, the sports seats ar elighter) so a wedge of weigth saved as well (not enoguh to compensate tfor the difference between my weight and the average driver I am afraid.........[
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Now I have the old Gen 1 heap so does he DFI thing make these changes redundant - No, if anything the greater degree of control you can have over parameters allows tuners to do more interesting stuff.
As always its not a free luch there are some compromises - the lack of warranty being a big one (there are alternatives offered by some specialists, warranty direct etc) The gains per element are small - in reality you want to aim to improve drivability (in gear perforamnce) and torque for on road performance. High power figures at the top end of the rev range really only tell on the race track (one of the compromises is choosing where you get your extra grunt).
And as always you pay for what you get - most of the upgrdes are not cheap, as once you get apprciable perforamnce gains you have to upgrade the brakes, handling (dampers or sway bars) etc to keep the car a balanced package.
So I refer you to Alan's other comment - a cheap upgrade is to buy a second hand turbo (much easier to tune and get big gaisn as well). The point being once you start tinkering its had to stop.
Hope this helps your thinking........
Come to the dark side my young padawan.................
