9x16 Fuchs - Where and how much?
- Thread starter Greg Park
- Start date
Where - in the hen's mouth, right next to its teeth,
How much - second mortgage territory.
Seriously though, these are very hard to get hold of. Try the specialists like Porsch-a-part and Jasmine, good ones in nice condition can fetch daft money, I've seen people asking four figure amounts. Keep an eye on eBay, they sometimes come up (both here and overseas). Might also be worth putting a wanted ad in Porsche Post and 911 & Porsche World.
How much - second mortgage territory.
Seriously though, these are very hard to get hold of. Try the specialists like Porsch-a-part and Jasmine, good ones in nice condition can fetch daft money, I've seen people asking four figure amounts. Keep an eye on eBay, they sometimes come up (both here and overseas). Might also be worth putting a wanted ad in Porsche Post and 911 & Porsche World.
Not sure 9" wheels will improve the 3.2 Carrera (opposite in fact).
Obviously they will beef up the aesthetics, but they won't make a nicer car.
Surely a man with Caterham experience knows never to 'over-tyre' a car?
Recommend 6s&7s (best IMO), 6s&8s or 7s&8s. Widening the track with spacers is another option.
Obviously they will beef up the aesthetics, but they won't make a nicer car.
Surely a man with Caterham experience knows never to 'over-tyre' a car?
Recommend 6s&7s (best IMO), 6s&8s or 7s&8s. Widening the track with spacers is another option.
I paid £700 about this time last year for a pair of re-annodised, re-painted 9x16s from Nick Moss. Give him a try, he has them from time to time - usually advertises them on here.
http://www.early911.co.uk/html/fuchs_rims.html
Jamie
http://www.early911.co.uk/html/fuchs_rims.html
Jamie
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I disagree with Oliver over the benefits of wider wheels. There is nothing to say that wider wheels means wider tyres. You can run the standard sizes on 7/8x16 or, at a scratch, on 7/9x16s. As I am sure you know, a tyre will perform much better when stretched on to a wider rim. The std sizes of 205 on a 6x16 and 225 on a 7x16 are just about the narrowest possible rim widths allowable for those tyre sizes. You are going to have a hard job convincing me that these are optimum. The wider rims also increase front and rear track. The overwhelming handling characteristic of our cars in steady state cornering is understeer. You have to be quite brutal with the throttle - either on it or lifting off it - to get oversteer. If you are like me, then you will want to decrease understeer and moving 7s to the front is the best trick I have found. The next step would be a bigger rear sway bar or Turbo rear torsion bars. This has been the accepted upgrade path for fast road or light track work ever since our cars were first released.
If the point is that wider wheels decrease the delicacy or adjustability of the car then that can really only be the case *if* you use wider tyres as well. I used 225/50 and 245/45 on 7/9s for years and felt this was a great combo for road and track use. I would suggest you try it before denouncing it. As our cars weigh circa 1300kg once fuelled up, this is not a massive increase in tyre compared with a Caterham at half the weight.
IMHO, even the optical benefits of using 7/8 or 7/9 make it worthwhile. I am not a big fan of the huge gap between wheel and wheelarch when running 225s on 7s in the rear. See below with 7/9s with 225/245 - with 14mm of spacers per side on the rear as well.
BTW, Jasmine had new 9s this time last year for not much more than the going rate for used.
If the point is that wider wheels decrease the delicacy or adjustability of the car then that can really only be the case *if* you use wider tyres as well. I used 225/50 and 245/45 on 7/9s for years and felt this was a great combo for road and track use. I would suggest you try it before denouncing it. As our cars weigh circa 1300kg once fuelled up, this is not a massive increase in tyre compared with a Caterham at half the weight.
IMHO, even the optical benefits of using 7/8 or 7/9 make it worthwhile. I am not a big fan of the huge gap between wheel and wheelarch when running 225s on 7s in the rear. See below with 7/9s with 225/245 - with 14mm of spacers per side on the rear as well.
BTW, Jasmine had new 9s this time last year for not much more than the going rate for used.
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Try these threads for more whorthwhile reading:
http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=109585&mpage=1&key=7x16𚵏![[FONT=verdana,geneva"]](/forum/styles/default/pcgb/space.gif ". [FONT=verdana,geneva\"]")
http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=79506&mpage=1&key=7x16𓝜 http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=43715&mpage=1&key=wheel곁 This (apologies to the owner) is the narrow look which IMHO is less than optimum.
http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=109585&mpage=1&key=7x16𚵏
http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=79506&mpage=1&key=7x16𓝜 http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=43715&mpage=1&key=wheel곁 This (apologies to the owner) is the narrow look which IMHO is less than optimum.
sheep911uk
New member
Try these be quick £550 buy it now on e bay
LOVELY FUCHS 16 INCH ALLOYS 6 AND 7 JWITH CENTER CAPS GOOD TYRES AND LOCK NUTS
Item number: 4569571470
LOVELY FUCHS 16 INCH ALLOYS 6 AND 7 JWITH CENTER CAPS GOOD TYRES AND LOCK NUTS
Item number: 4569571470
Going off on a bit of a tangent here guys... I ran with (as they were on the car when I got it ) 205 x 55 x 16 on 6" fronts and 245 x 50 x16 on 7" at the rear. The car was fine though "shimmied" a bit at the back on fast corners. I asked around and it was generally thought that the rear tyre walls were moving too much across the rim under load.
Anyway, when these wore out I changed to 225 x 50 x 16's on the rear and kept the fronts on 205's although I replaced these as they were not N1 compounds. Handling is fine now that they are worn in, but the set up is very susceptible to incorrect tyre pressures.
To keep the look at the back I have installed a 26mm German motorsport spacer, which recreates the wide look and fills out the arches nicely. Any thoughts on what spacers (if any) I should try on the front to achieve a similar affect without stuffing up the handling?
Answers on a postcard!
Steve
Anyway, when these wore out I changed to 225 x 50 x 16's on the rear and kept the fronts on 205's although I replaced these as they were not N1 compounds. Handling is fine now that they are worn in, but the set up is very susceptible to incorrect tyre pressures.
To keep the look at the back I have installed a 26mm German motorsport spacer, which recreates the wide look and fills out the arches nicely. Any thoughts on what spacers (if any) I should try on the front to achieve a similar affect without stuffing up the handling?
Answers on a postcard!
Steve
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Take a look at the chart in the first thread I reference above for a graphical representation but the simple answer is that all the extra width of the 7x16 is outboard so you need a full inch spacer in the front. In the rear, with the 9x16, the extra width is split about 50:50 inboard and outboard, so again you need an inch spacer - actually about 28mm so a little over an inch. However, running 7s up front creates clearance problems for most people so something like a 15mm spacer is actually what you want for the front if you don't want to have the alignment reset with more negative camber and/or roll the fender lips.
You can get away with more but you run the risk of fouling the guards. If I add up the extra track on my trackday set-up (7s and 9s with 225/245) compared with a std 6/7x16 set-up, it is 31mm per side on the front and 42mm per side on the rear with no clearance issues, however, that's with stiff torsion bars, lots of neg camber (2.0/2.5 degrees) and rolled front arches - and its very tight. You do the math, that's about half way to std Turbo track widths all squished under narrow arches [
]
RB
You can get away with more but you run the risk of fouling the guards. If I add up the extra track on my trackday set-up (7s and 9s with 225/245) compared with a std 6/7x16 set-up, it is 31mm per side on the front and 42mm per side on the rear with no clearance issues, however, that's with stiff torsion bars, lots of neg camber (2.0/2.5 degrees) and rolled front arches - and its very tight. You do the math, that's about half way to std Turbo track widths all squished under narrow arches [
]RB
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Well the other way to do it - which may be cheaper - is to install longer studs and then just buy a cheap spacer or use a number of stacked 7mm spacers giving you ultimate flexibility. The rear studs are pretty easy to change DIY, in fact I posted a write up on here some time ago. Once you get the disc off and the caliper is hanging out of the way, you can remove the dust sheild and punch out the old studs. The new ones slip in behind thru a hole in the handbrake mechanism IIRC and you can pull them thru with the wheelnuts. Unless you get the length just right (or cut the studs back), you need to change to open top steel wheelnuts. Doing the fronts is a little more complicated as mucky bearings gubins are involved.
Of course, you could use 7mm shims on the standard studs and nuts. This may be enough for you to be satisfied with the fronts as I think 15mm is all you will want at the front (not 25mm) and 7mm gets you half way there.
Of course, you could use 7mm shims on the standard studs and nuts. This may be enough for you to be satisfied with the fronts as I think 15mm is all you will want at the front (not 25mm) and 7mm gets you half way there.
Hi Richard, would 30mm spacers fit on the rears with 7x16 wearing 225/50's as I maybe able to source an old set, Cheers
I think I will go the spacer root and take my time in sourcing some 8/9 as I've fitted new tyres to the rears to might as well get some use out of them
I think I will go the spacer root and take my time in sourcing some 8/9 as I've fitted new tyres to the rears to might as well get some use out of them
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Will 30mm spacers work? It would work on my car with 2.5 degrees negative camber. It should work on yours as by my rough calc it is only 2mm more than 9s with no spacer which always seems to fit OK. You could always have them turned in a machine shop by a couple of mm if its too much.
Keep a close eye on the clearance after install. If they are going to rub, they rub about an inch or so *above* the fender lip. So they clear the lip OK and you think everything is OK until you hear the rubbing and find the paint is burnt through from the heat! Been there, done that !
Keep a close eye on the clearance after install. If they are going to rub, they rub about an inch or so *above* the fender lip. So they clear the lip OK and you think everything is OK until you hear the rubbing and find the paint is burnt through from the heat! Been there, done that !
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