A 1980 911SC that's been off the road for 14 years

[charles s]

Hi,

I have just acquired a 1980 911SC targa that was last on the road in 1996. Since then it's been stored in a dry garage on blocks. The engine has been run up for a short time every year until about 4 years ago. I plan to change oil, brakefluid and belts (tyres? - they look good but are clearly 15 years old or more) and turn the engine over by hand a bit prior to first startup. Is there anything else that should be replaced as a matter of course or that I should pay particular attention to prior to this first startup and run (for an MoT)?

Many thanks.

 

[John_Ward]

Too many things to list, but a short synopsis.
Turn it over plenty of times without allowing it to fire up in order to get some lubricant circulating.
Be gentle when you do allow it to fire up.
Ensure that the brakes are working.
Make sure that the electrics you need for the MoT are operative.
Then, get it to an MoT station.
If you are lucky, you'll be given a snag list like you wouldn't believe, but for an outlay of £50. Bargain!
Good luck.

 

[bones]

Everything that John said but I emphasise turning the engine over to build oil pressure level and lubricate the bores. After the MOT change all the oil, break fluid and tyres. Go from there and take her to an Porsche independent for a tune up and further inspection. Good luck, I like these posts the most, keep us updated.

 

[charles s]

Thank you gentlemen for your pointers.
A non-club source suggested spraying a light oil in around the bores through the plug holes prior to any movement. Do you think this would be a good idea?
Many thanks.
Charles

 

[vitesse]

People used to suggest Redex for that-if you are taking all the plugs out,thats a good time to spin the engine using the starter motor to get oil to all the bearings etc.

 

[charles s]

Oil changed and filter, fuel pumped out and replaced with fresh, new fuel filter (4th time lucky) brake fluid replaced. Engine spun with plugs out - oil pressure looks good. So far so good. Connect electrics and go for start up - no fuel pump despite power to it - so bought a new one. On removing the old one there's no fuel on the supply side - oh dear. Gentle probing back up the supply pipe doesn't release anything - some sediment but not enough to block that pipe (I don't think). Removed the tank drain plug/filter and there's quite a bit of waxy/oily stuff around the filter - and am guessing that this is the problem between the filter and the exit pipe from the tank. Am resigned to removing the tank and using a compressor to clear the pipe (or attempt to clear the pipe) but am thinking that this will be tricky with the waxy/oily stuff.

Please can anyone advise of a suitable solvent - or is it simply swilling around with clean fuel?

And does the exit pipe run clear to the base of the filter at the bottom of the tank or is there a baffle in between? My diagrams don't show enough detail. (Can I simply push some wire back up that exit pipe? So far that doesn't appear to be possible.)

Many thanks.
Charles

ps A red light in the temp guage/oil pressure clock with a G in a circle under it - what's that for?

 

[chris.hevey]

Maybe pushing a piano string or similar through the pipe may be worth a try? Low tech I know, but it shouldn't hurt anything?

 

[charles s]

Thanks for pointers. Tank exit pipe (ie fuel pump supply) fully cleared with wire and compressed air. Still have a problem with the returns pipe - it's blocked solid. I can get a wire in up to a certain point - and then stops dead. I think there must be a T piece where I guess it joins the exit pipe. Please would anyone have a diagram of the layout of these pipes in the fuel tank? It is impossible to see (without an endoscope or similar) from the sender unit hole the layout due to a baffle in the tank - and so tricky to work out the best way to attack the blockage.
Many thanks.
Charles

 

[Lévon]

That red G light means either your V belt requires tightening, or as I found out to my bitter experience, your Generator (aka alternator) is not charging up the battery (or the Regulator has gone).
Mine was lit for over 60 miles until the battery went flat, the alternator O ring had totally disintegrated and a new one had to be fitted. Reconditioned alternators are available (approx £150), however the Regulators also seem to go soon after and it may be worth getting a new alternator with built in Regulator. I got mine fitted for around £350.

 

[charles s]

Thanks for the comment on the charge light, no worries yet then - since we're not yet up and running. Do all models have this light or is this a LHD or non-UK spec fitting?

Am still struggling to clear the returns pipe to the fuel tank. There are some great photos of a very similar tank (cut in half) on a US pelican parts forum so now have an idea of the layout - but I still can't get wire and air to clear it. Has anyone used caustic to clear blocked fuel lines?

While the tank's off am planning to rub down and repaint/underseal the rusty patches - any top tips on best materials; Hammerite or tetraseal direct?

Many thanks.
Charles

 

[steeley]

15 year old tyres, and been standing for a while- I'd probably get rid of them.

For rust- I've had good results from Dinitrol products.
Take the side sills off and have good look round. Thats where it hides

Also behind the door slam panel at the bottom near the kidney bowl.