A good idea !

[Guest]

Given the regularity with which I seem to destroy brake ducts, I thought I might try 993 air deflectors. These atach to the A-arm and deflect air towards the brake, rather than ducting it right in, so they are not as effective but they should be good enough. Given my last track days have been without any ducts at all and I have survived just fine, these should do the trick.

You can mount them the quick and dirty way I did with zip ties or weld tabs to your a-arm and bolt them on like a 993.

The part number is 993.341.083/4 (L/R) and they are cheap.

To zip tie them you need to drill a series of holes. 10 seemed a good number.

 

[Guest]

Next up you zip tie them in place. I used snot green ties just so that they are easy for you all to see []

 

[Guest]

Well that last photo certainly shows it ain't no freekin concours car []

Next photo shows a little more detail from the front. Hopefully it should scoop up a bit of air.

 

[Guest]

One last photo of the completed item.

FYI, if you want to do this, it would be a bit of a waste of time if you didn't remove the rock sheilds (aka brake heaters!) from the back of the disc.

With a bit of thought and extra long cable ties, I think a pair of these could be made to work on the rear as well by securing them around the banana arms. Not essential, but maybe something to play with next winter.

Also FYI, just in case you didn't realise, the brakes are 964 caliper over 944T 28x300mm discs not regular 3.2 brakes. Just another part the continuing evolution of my "skunkworks" 911.

RB

 

[bones]

Ingenious stuff. Just a thought on braking - when driving under 'fast road use ' conditions do you ever find that when going for the brakes after not having touched them for a while, on a long , long straight for instance, they are cold and hence don't stop as they do when going round twisty B roads where one is on and off the brakes all the time and where my SC brakes are amazing for such an old car, (lighter than stock). Wouldn't removing the disk guard exacerbate this problem or can it be seen as scrap metal? Perhaps I should go back to a trick I used on bikes which was to very lightly apply the front brake if I thought they were likely to be cold just before I needed them so heating the pads and disk.

 

[Jacob]

I have now done 2 track days (addicted - you bet[]) I am getting faster, understanding my car much better and growing in confidence. One area that I need to 'upgrade' further is the braking. I have Pagid fast road / race pads and racing blue fluid. This is still not sufficient, towards the end of the track day I get brake fade - just as I think I am doing my fastest laps.
This looks like part of the solution for me. When is your next track day Richard? It would be interesting to know your thoughts on how effective this upgrade is.

 

[ClubSport 911]

my "skunkworks" 911.

Painted in RAM....flies only at night...doesn't go round corners well (e.g SR71, F117A, TR1A, U2...), are you sure ?

[]

 

[Melv]

Jacob -no offence meant, but you may need to revise your braking technique for track work.......

i.e. short stab rather than long prolonged brake as on road.

 

[Guest]

ORIGINAL: Richard Bernau

Well that last photo certainly shows it ain't no freekin concours car []

Never said a truer word but she's a babe anyway []

 

[Andy Tims]

Richard.

The deflectors look good, but as you say would not be a good as cooling ducts. What system did you have that you kept destroying?

This is the one I've got
http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/bd-5600.htm
& to date (fitted immediately priot to Spa) it's been fine.

 

[Guest]

Andy,

Like that, but without the dinky triangular bits (which IMHO don't have enough cross sectional area to be properly effective). I just had hose of a bigger diameter than the one in the picture. Over the course of a few track days it would invariably start to deteriorate or unravel and then I would have to change it. I still had the hub plate section on the car at Spa with no hoses (because I couldn't get hoses in time) and I had no overheating problems. To be honest, I don't think I need any ducting now that my car is a bit lighter again than Spa so the deflectors are just a little insurance. Remember, Spa is easy on brakes as there are long fast sections.

RB

 

[Jacob]

ORIGINAL: Melv

Jacob -no offence meant, but you may need to revise your braking technique for track work.......

i.e. short stab rather than long prolonged brake as on road.

non taken - I haven't been giving it a short stab. I will try this on my next track day.

thanks for the advice

 

[Guest]

I think its probably helpful to elaborate on Mel's advice in the context of a 3.2 on road tyres with standard suspension (just in case he has forgotten what mortals have to battle with compared to a Cup Car on slicks []). You need to be slightly progressive in applying the brakes but still hard enought to get the weight transfering forwards and then - as soon as the weight transfers - you can really stand on the middle pedal. On road tyres, the point of lock up is a little closer than on slicks so the "short, stab" becomes a little longer. When you slow enough release the brakes. You may have braked too early! Doesn't matter! Its a track day. Just coast up to the turn-in point or thereabouts, finish your braking and concentrate on your corner. Then brake later next time. If I am learning a track for example, I will brake hard and a little early then coast then have a second brake rather than one long slow brake until I get closer to the proper braking points. Same thing if I follow someone slow who brakes long and slow. You will know when you are right on the point of lock up when the back starts to move around under braking and you are making little, but real, corrections with the steering just to keep it all straight - or maybe thats just my car!

RB

 

[Jacob]

Richard,

Thanks for elaborating further - like I said, I'm a novice. Any help is warmly welcomed