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After significant work, car won't run...help

T

tartan_rob

New member
So I have a done a pile of work on the engine:

New:
- Big end shells
- OPR valve
- Alternator
- Oil pressure sender

Cleaned and brought back to new:
- Injectors
- All hydraulic valves (complete strip down and re-build)
- Intake system
- Cold start valve

Finally got her back together and she won't start. I broke into the fuel lines in the engine bay and there is no fuel at the engine, the lines are bone dry. I have half a tank of fuel (fresh today). I have almost flattened the battery...

The car was running before I started the work. One point to note, when I switch the ignition on there is the usual relays clicks etc but no fuel pump noise.

Any thoughts? Can I test the pump or the DME relay?
Thanks,
Rob
 
Take a look at http://www.clarks-garage.com Under "garage shop manual" there's info on testing and temporarily bypassing the DME relay.
 
+1 for Clarks garage. What would we do if that website ever went down!?? Make a bypass (just stick a wire in the right terminals) and you should hear the pump and fuel flowing round the loop. Hope it works out for you (and no more knocking sound!!).
 
So I bypassed the DME, and the fuel pump runs. Fuel pumping out of the lines. Car still will not start. I did an old school trick and tried to earth a spark plug but could not see a spark. However, I fear the injectors are not firing. When I take a plug our after about a minute of cranking (on and off), the spark plugs are dry. Thoughts? I have torn the carpets out and moved the wooden board that the ECU bolts onto. I wonder if I have disturbed any wiring..? Is there anything else I can try? One other thing, on a good car, should the fuel pump prime or run before cranking?
 
Try swapping the two plugs over on the crank sensors & see if the tacho still bounces, i had a similar problem with my 924S and it was a faulty sensor.
 
Crank sensor was not connected properly.... She now coughs, fires and dies. The primary coil pack resistance is not fantastically healthy so I have ordered a new pack. When I take the plugs out they are soaking with fuel. Any thoughts????
 
So the mechanical timing was out by about 40deg. Someone appears to have marked the rear camshaft cover in two places. It was pure luck I found it - and did no damage. Got the car running and noticed the top balance shaft pulley was noisey....the bearings look shot to bits, there is about 2-3mm of transverse play and the same in longitudinal play - and oil running out and I mean running. Inlet manifold needs to come off again so I can access the inspection panel and to change both sets of dry bearings..Joy. On the upside I got on with re-lining jobs.....see other post...
 
Great that you got it running... and dodged a bullet with the timing being out 40 degrees! If you're taking the balance shaft out, replace the little o-ring at the rear seal... they perish and leak. The front balance shaft housing: there is a big O-ring, an oil seal (that you can see), a metal 'top hat' that the seal rides on and a thin, hard to see 'onion skin' seal between the top hat and the balance shaft. It's worth changing all the seals, and the top hat if it's worn (otherwise it will tear up the new seal). If it's really peeing out, it could be the onion skin seal is missing, or somebody put more than one in...?
 
I was gonna take the inlet manifold off and completely overhaul the balancer shaft. Is there a complete overhaul kit out there?
 
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