airlock in water system
- Thread starter byron
- Start date
In the rear boot remove the coolant cap, and the oil filler cap (make sure the engine is cold first to prevent possible injury from boiling coolant).
Lever up the trim cover underneath the filler necks.
Flip up the coolant bleeder valve locking clip.
Replace the Oil filler cap
For automatic transmission cars, remove the fuse B1 in the fusebox "" this disables the shut off valve for the ATF cooler.
Fill with the 50-50 coolant-water mix. Fill to the Max line in the level indicator.
Run the engine at idle, continue to top off the coolant until no more can be added.
Do not allow the coolant to exceed 80 Degrees C (176F).
Replace the coolant cap and tighten. Let the engine warm for 10 or so minutes at 2500rpm. When the engine is fully warmed up the radiator cooling fans will come on. Run a further 5 minutes at 2500rpm, and blip the throttle now and again to 5000 rpm.
Cover the coolant reservoir cap with a thick cloth and open slowly, releasing the pressure very carefully "" do not scald yourself!
Top up the coolant, close the cap again, and repeat the process for a further 5 minutes, revving intermittently to 5000 rpm.
Idle the engine until the radiator fans have cycled on and off once, then switch off the engine and again carefully remove the reservoir cap, taking care to relieve the pressure slowly.
Top up the coolant until it is at the MAX mark on the level indicator in the rear boot.
Flip the coolant bleeder valve locking clip down again.
Replace the filler neck trim cover and all caps.
Replace fuse B1 on automatic transmission cars.
Lever up the trim cover underneath the filler necks.
Flip up the coolant bleeder valve locking clip.
Replace the Oil filler cap
For automatic transmission cars, remove the fuse B1 in the fusebox "" this disables the shut off valve for the ATF cooler.
Fill with the 50-50 coolant-water mix. Fill to the Max line in the level indicator.
Run the engine at idle, continue to top off the coolant until no more can be added.
Do not allow the coolant to exceed 80 Degrees C (176F).
Replace the coolant cap and tighten. Let the engine warm for 10 or so minutes at 2500rpm. When the engine is fully warmed up the radiator cooling fans will come on. Run a further 5 minutes at 2500rpm, and blip the throttle now and again to 5000 rpm.
Cover the coolant reservoir cap with a thick cloth and open slowly, releasing the pressure very carefully "" do not scald yourself!
Top up the coolant, close the cap again, and repeat the process for a further 5 minutes, revving intermittently to 5000 rpm.
Idle the engine until the radiator fans have cycled on and off once, then switch off the engine and again carefully remove the reservoir cap, taking care to relieve the pressure slowly.
Top up the coolant until it is at the MAX mark on the level indicator in the rear boot.
Flip the coolant bleeder valve locking clip down again.
Replace the filler neck trim cover and all caps.
Replace fuse B1 on automatic transmission cars.
PS, I hope you've used the Porsche coolant - not just water?
The coolant is anti-freeze - and corrosion inhibitor, and probably a whole lot of other stuff too!
You shouldn't mix coolants and Porsche don't seem to say what is in theirs so I'd get it from Porsche. If you buy elsewhere then make sure it is phosphate-free and silicate-free.
How much water have you used? If you drained the whole system then you need to replace it with the Porsche coolant.
You shouldn't mix coolants and Porsche don't seem to say what is in theirs so I'd get it from Porsche. If you buy elsewhere then make sure it is phosphate-free and silicate-free.
How much water have you used? If you drained the whole system then you need to replace it with the Porsche coolant.
thanks for that everyone yes mark all coolant and water was lost because the radiator was damaged so i have replaced the rad and filled it up with water but i havent driven the car but i will go and buy the proper coolant let all the water out and start a fresh and go throught the stages you have told me and hope i can do it thank again
hi mark i have just phoned my local car spares wear i buy all my parts from he as looked on is auto dater and he says its saying it just as normal bluecol antifreeze i give him my reg number and he looked it up to see what it needs and thats what it says it needs what do you think mark
Actually, I don't know. The Porsche Engine is a mixture of various alloys and steel, plus all the rubber seals, hoses, alloy rads... I'm pretty sure any well regarded proprietary anti-freeze will work fine... However how much are you saving? Is the saving the over-riding factor? I'd bet Independant Porsche specialists bung all sorts of stuff in - but unlike Oil (where Porsche tell you what specs are suitable) I have not found any spec from Porsche on coolant.
I'd hate to tell you blucol is ok and then a seal gets eaten and you blame me [
] Only you can decide what you put in.
The Porsche stuff needs to be installed as a 50-50 mix with water (unless it comes pre-mixed these days?). Depending on the model you have it has up to 22 litres of coolant in it - so that's possibly 11 litres of the Porsche coolant you need.
Edit: The posts below suggest it comes ready mixed now. I stand corrected.
Also - I wasn't stong enough in my recommendation - I'd buy the Porsche coolant. Why risk it unless you know for sure?
I'd hate to tell you blucol is ok and then a seal gets eaten and you blame me [
] Only you can decide what you put in.The Porsche stuff needs to be installed as a 50-50 mix with water (unless it comes pre-mixed these days?). Depending on the model you have it has up to 22 litres of coolant in it - so that's possibly 11 litres of the Porsche coolant you need.
Edit: The posts below suggest it comes ready mixed now. I stand corrected.
Also - I wasn't stong enough in my recommendation - I'd buy the Porsche coolant. Why risk it unless you know for sure?
BartyB
New member
The last time I bought it from the OPC it came ready mixed. I would definitely not use anything other than the Porsche formulation. Unsuitable (read unapproved) coolants are the cause of accelerated corrosion and floculation in high performance engines. There is a load of information all over the Interweb regarding the use of the wrong sort of coolant in modern engines. In my view, it is completely false economy to try to save a few quid on a litre or two of coolant and run the risk of premature engine failure.
hi mark just to let you know i think i have sorted the water problem out first i let all the water out well as much as i could and then i put the coolant in and added the water and then i did what you sent me step by step and it seems to have worked well i think it as but as for the antifreeze i went to a garage that repairs and services all porsches near wear i live and just asked his advice on what antifreeze to use he told me he uses the red bluecol or any good quality one he as been useing this for years its like he said porsche are always going to say only use there make when realy the red bluecol is just as good and got all the same ingrediants but the difference is the cost porsche was £70 and the red bluecol was £28 for 10 lts i just dont like to be ripped of the guy at the garage also told me to jack the back end up as for as it will go so that the air in the system will have a better chance to get out of the system seems to have worked how will i know if i have got rid of the air lock but thanks for all your help mark
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