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Am I mssing something when changing my bearing

Hilux

New member
Endeavouring to change the offside rear wheel bearing [:mad:]

Clarkes Garage suggested that you dont need to remove the trailing arm to get the half shaft off.

You bl**dy well do as far as I am concerned as the gearbox oil cooler stops the transaxle end of the shaft dropping down and the gap between the aluminium cylinder against the spare wheel well (fuel filter?) and the gearbox oil cooler coil stops you lifting it up. [&:]

Or am I wrong? Anyone else changed a rear offside wheel bearing on a 1988+ turbo?
 
Are you trying to remove the stub axle with the drive shaft? Assuming its the same as a non turbo 944.

Don't you need to remove the arm to replace the bearing any way?

Siggy
 
Don't you need to remove the arm to replace the bearing any way?

According to others you can replace the bearing without removing the trailing arm. I now believe you cant but here it states you can so I wondered [&:]
 
I did it, but I didn't enjoy it, Undo the hub nut first, I had someone standing on the brake pedal whilst I used a 3 foot breaker bar with a 6 foot pipe over it, and even then I had to jump up and down on the end - decidely dodgy!
IIRC then it was brake bits off split the cv joints to remove the driveshaft drift out the hub from the centre of the bearing (this removed half the bearing which needs a special tool to remove OPC did it for around £15. Extract the circlip heat the arm ( I used a heat gun) drift the bearing out.
I used a suitably sized piece of aluminium scrap rather than a socket and for 'drift' read hit bloody hard with a 4lb hammer repeatedly.
At the end of all that one of my new bearings has a little play in it (not quite enough to fail the MOT) so I think it might have got damaged during reassembly. It is silent though so I haven't replaced it again yet.
Tony
 
but I didn't enjoy it

Unusually for me I have to say that I did not relish the challenge. In fact its now all back together and booked in to JZ Machtek (I have heard good and bad re these people but mostly good?)

On my turbo, on the offside of the transaxle is the gearbox oil cooler supply/return and coil. This prevents `dropping` the transaxle end of the driveshaft and there is no room to raise it. The supply/return pipes are fixed inside the transaxle casing so you cant remove it easily [:mad:]. I noted your comment re splitting of CV joint and couldnt be asked (I didnt think that I could control dirt ingress which will destroy them as quick as anything) The alternative then is to remove the trailing arm. Not hard but what a pain in the *rse and I really didnt want the hassle..

Note: those `cheesehead` or spline bolts on the drive shafts are a pain. If I ever have to work on those again I'm going to change them for allen head bolts.

Ho hum, never mind. At least the car has an agreed insurance value a lot higher than what I paid for it so I`m still ahead with money spent on it anyway although I can see upgrades this winter wiping that out [;)]
 

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