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any info on frozen rotors?

The guys on the Rennlist forum seemed to think they work ok, especially if tracking the car.

Kevin
 
ive warped a third set so things are getting desperate....yes i do a cool off lap then circle the paddock then roll the car forward and back to stop heat sink , have warped genuine porsche discs, cross drilled zimmermans were better , but gone now ,would like a solution, would fit bigger RS brakes but they may do the same so like the idea of the frozen ones..........
 
I have used these for 3 years - done 8 or so track days plus road miles and they are just about worn to the min now. Much harder than normal steel. You woudl also be best served with harder pads eg porterfields - normal road pads don't last well. I recall asking if anyone was interested in a group buy at the time but had no takers. I will be looking to get the same again.
 
I've often wondered about cryo treatment, we use it on some audio items with success and it's good to read here that it may extend the life of some parts too. Given that I get through brake discs regularly I think I might try to get my next set treated in the UK by the following firm http://www.frozensolid.co.uk/ (no connection etc) and see if it can result in a saving in the long run.
 
I'd be keen for a front set if anybody else is planning to buy. With the exchange rate what it is, even with shipping it wouldn't be too expensive.
I had a similar problem wit my front brakes. It was basicaly a build of pad material bonding onto the disc face. This gave a horrible judder through the steering wheel when braking.
Fitting much harder pads (Pagid Blues) has helped but it's not the total answer as the judder still comes back after a few laps Bedford (which is admittedly a brake killer).
These look worth trying.
 
Yep, I'd be interested in these.
I run standard discs with Pagid blues and always suffer with pad build up after a few laps, can be quite disconcerting at times!
Even after a cool down lap and extra cooling measures this keeps happening.
Have also tried bedding the pads in again but come the next track day it returns.

I was going to try drilled but may give the cryo ones a pop if the price if good enough!
 
No - I spoke to frozen rotors a few years back to see if this would be something to invest in - but they make their money with gov contracts and a long haul to get decent busienss with track etc bits. I think they sell 3 or 4 kits to Europe per year! I think JZ machetch did this for a few months and then stopped. I see some folks dabbling here but have not seen one that has n years of say brake disc freezing.
 
think im suffering from melting the standard pads so may try some EBC yellowstuff ones first, they are meant to be good on track but ok for road...
 
Keith

I think I'll be giving those a go as well. Spoke to someone with a 3.2CS and he couldn't get them warm enough on the road but I think that would be an issue with everything upwards from the pagid blues.
Simonextreme did reccommend the pagid greys but for what they cost I'm a bit cautious incase they don't cure the problem.
I did get a quote from the stateside company for frozen rotors and at $140 ea for the fronts the are not that bad, shipping for 2 is $200 which bumps the price up a bit.
Rob
 
Have you guys considered water cooling?

I don't mean gallons of water, I mean a fine mist of water sprayed into the centre of the disc at the hub so that the cool spray gets distributed into the vented section of the front discs.

Some chap on the Fiat Coupé forum tried it using an aquamist system (usually used in intercooler water injection systems).

From memory the injector nozel was located on the hub, inboard of the disc and injected a fine mist towards the disc with the water vapour permiating the vented gap between the disc's two outer surfaces. It as triggered by a simple relay which was fed from the brake light circuit.

Stupid idea probably, but you never know.

Cheers

Burnsy

Caused some steam but kept his discs cooler.
 
Burnsy, thought about this when I had the front bumper off. The headlight nozzles would've been ideal but I thought spraying cold water into/onto hot discs may have caused more problems.

Rob
 
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