Time to confess. By the number of hits there' s more lurkers than talkers! Come on don' t be shy.
Any Other RS owners out there!
- Thread starter Laurence Gibbs
- Start date
Congrats Timmy
a purchase you will not regret. Welcome to the club.[
]
a purchase you will not regret. Welcome to the club.[
]
pncarrerars
New member
I' m here also with ' 93 indian/guards red RS. It came with the Carrera side decals already fitted which I intended to remove but I now think that it looks better with them. Had the car for 3 years now and no intention of ever selling it. Also have ' 77 SC owned for 17 years.
Pete
Pete
I think the RS is always very difficult to justify and many of us think of selling at some time or another. And then we get real and realise. THERE IS NO SUBSITUTE[][]
][]
Hi Laurence....got my car late last August, too scared to drive it to the factory visit...preferring the comfort of the 996 with all the goodies including ever useful sat-nav. However, having got thru 1.5 sets of Bridgestones and 1 set of front disks + pagid blacks in 8000km, would probably be up for it now. The LHD setup is much better than my old RHD 993, at least the steering wheel is in front of me now not over to the left somewhere, and pedals seem less offset. Still can' t drive it properly, you need ballet training to double declutch and I can' t co-ordinate feet quick enough. I have driven Oulton twice, Donnington thrice, Brands and Mallory once, the car is a lot quicker than me but its fun learning. Just a bit noisy for some of the tracks ? Would like to try a GT3 for comparison !
Man speaks much truth - can any of us drive these things really properly (quickly) -personally, the older I get the quicker I was!
On the double declutching I find the worst thing is the ' slop' at the top of the pedal what should be a reasonable ' blip' doesn' t do much of anything, can they be adjusted to be really instant? I know the reaction speed of the engine management is slower than carbs or mechanical injection but I just feel it should be better - Mel what about the cup car? And yes I know if I go to Motec it can be improved but as I said before its often hard to justify as it is now!
Tony
On the double declutching I find the worst thing is the ' slop' at the top of the pedal what should be a reasonable ' blip' doesn' t do much of anything, can they be adjusted to be really instant? I know the reaction speed of the engine management is slower than carbs or mechanical injection but I just feel it should be better - Mel what about the cup car? And yes I know if I go to Motec it can be improved but as I said before its often hard to justify as it is now!
Tony
Hey Tony .... you right! Somehow the revs drop like a stone...instant zero... if you take the foot off, leading to embarassing stalls in first gear traffic, but on the otherhand when you want an instant blip the response is totally different. Every now and then I blip too firmly, rev too much when trying to move off at a road junction and Murphys Law applies, I get instant 4000rpm and the offputting smell that only a clutch lining can contrive. Is it me or the car ??
The Cup accelerator responds to a twitch of the little toe, but something' s been done to it so VERY responsive -revs like b*ggery!
If stall probs etc., first thing is to make sure u have decent fuel in it (got to be Shel Optimax, hasn' t it?), then start looking at the engine management -it shouldn' t do this.
THe Cup hunts at 800-1200 revs, sometimes just ticks over at as teady 1500, but I can still get it rolling by letting the clutch in WITHOUT using the accelerater!! It' ll do 20 in second on tickover....
Rgds
Melv
If stall probs etc., first thing is to make sure u have decent fuel in it (got to be Shel Optimax, hasn' t it?), then start looking at the engine management -it shouldn' t do this.
THe Cup hunts at 800-1200 revs, sometimes just ticks over at as teady 1500, but I can still get it rolling by letting the clutch in WITHOUT using the accelerater!! It' ll do 20 in second on tickover....
Rgds
Melv
Elliot Davies
New member
Here is a quote from the SMART owners forum......Dont laugh...... Its a rear engined twin plug turbo after all [
]Or for the foreign speakers in the club do a google search for " shell v power"
Question - What' s Better Than OPTIMAX ?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well the answer is here ...... it' s a translation from German ..... if you don' t want to read it alll ...... it' s Shell 100 Octane !! Called v-power. Only available in europe at the moment.
Shell v-power: New fuel with guaranteed 100 oktan
Schumacher: " Shell v-power is the best fuel, which I drove ever"
Shell v-power - in such a way is called the new Premium gasoline, which introduces the Shell & DEA oil, gradually Hamburg, starting from 6 May to all Shell gas stations. This gasoline is the only country widely offered petrol with a guaranteed octane number of 100. Shell v-power contains a so-called " Friction Reducer" an innovative component, which reduces the friction within the range of the upper piston ring. Shell v-power is produced alone in Shell refineries and consists of a Formulation of high-quality components. The advantage for the driver: V-power improves acceleration and power ratings. Formel-1-Weltmeister Michael Schumacher determined on the occasion of the conception of the new gasoline on 15 April in Berlin: " Shell v power is the best fuel, which I drove ever."
As at present only fuel on the German market Shell v-power 100 oktan guarantees. The octane number makes it possible, acceleration, to positively affect the responsing mode and the elasticity of the engine: Particularly in modern vehicles with knocking sensor the potential of the engine is so better used and converted more energy in driving power. The car becomes more spritziger.
Friction costs achievement. In the engine friction losses develop by the piston movements in the cylinder, in particular within the range of the upper piston ring with the verbrennungsvorgang. The singular Shell v-power additive package with the innovative component, the " Friction Reducer" , was developed, in order to reduce the friction between piston ring and cylinder purposefully. The result is a clearly improved acceleration already starting from the first tank filling.
The positive characteristics of Shell v-power make more achievement possible in practical driving, depending upon motor type, up to 10 per cent and up to 5 per cent more torque: These impressive results determined the Shell researcher and developer with v-power in fleet tests. Shell v-power is suitable for all petrol engines.
Shell gas station boss Istvan Kapitany: " Shell v-power sets new yardsticks: The gasoline is Champagner for the engine - also engines estimate a good drop. Into the development of Shell v-power flowed the entire know-how and the experience, the Shell as exclusive strength and lubricant supplier of the Ferrari-Formel-1-Teams over years collected."
Reference to the editorships:
The octane number has relevant influence on the gasoline quality and on the acceleration behavior of modern engines. The Shell research worked in recent time in this area strengthened and parts of its research results published. To the publications belong:
- Professor Gautam Kalghatgi: Fuel anti Knock quality part 1; Engine Studies. SAE 2001.01.3584
- Professor Gautam Kalghatgi: Fuel anti Knock quality part 2; Vehicle Studies. How relevantly is MON in decay vehicles?
SAE 2001.01.3585
The stalling is an engine management thing due to speed of response & light flywheel. I' m told that tusing a bigger throttle body cures it entirely. What I have found is that keeping the idle compensator clean (internally!) does help to reduce the problem.
My problem is blipping the throttle on heel & toe changes, small movements of the throttle pedal don' t consistently result in changing the revs. Is it just cable adjustment? Mel is there any free movement at all in the cable on your car?
Tony
My problem is blipping the throttle on heel & toe changes, small movements of the throttle pedal don' t consistently result in changing the revs. Is it just cable adjustment? Mel is there any free movement at all in the cable on your car?
Tony
pncarrerars
New member
I have a similar problem that the revs do not always rise with a blip of the throttle. There is no slack in my throttle cable & I have found that if the throttle is kept slightly open it always blips ok. I have disconnected the idle switch & found that again it always blips ok. The problem seems to be that the revs are sometimes reluctant to rise immediatly if the idle switch is closed. Its as though the ecu is slow to react to the idle switch opening & it still tries to maintain idle speed even though the throttle is open.
From our 964RS Technical Consultant, Colin Belton:
" The problem is the stupid mechanism on the side of the stock 964 throttle body that makes it more " sensitive" for town driving, basically the idle contact lever moves first before it opens the actual butterfly, thus disabling the stabiliser and allowing the revs to drop before the throttle actually opens to catch the engine.
The cure is to re-adjust the whole lot. First crack the throttle plate open slightly, maybe one or two turns, then adjust the quadrant lever so that there is negligible movement of the lever (that the cable attaches to) before the throttle plate itself moves; finally re-adjust the position of the idle contact to come off as soon as the throttle plate moves. I do this set up with every rebuilt big bore unit we do and seldom see a problem with response.
Alternatively, fit a 993 throttle body with a throttle potentiometer and then couple Motec to it to run the car correctly."
Rgds
Melv
" The problem is the stupid mechanism on the side of the stock 964 throttle body that makes it more " sensitive" for town driving, basically the idle contact lever moves first before it opens the actual butterfly, thus disabling the stabiliser and allowing the revs to drop before the throttle actually opens to catch the engine.
The cure is to re-adjust the whole lot. First crack the throttle plate open slightly, maybe one or two turns, then adjust the quadrant lever so that there is negligible movement of the lever (that the cable attaches to) before the throttle plate itself moves; finally re-adjust the position of the idle contact to come off as soon as the throttle plate moves. I do this set up with every rebuilt big bore unit we do and seldom see a problem with response.
Alternatively, fit a 993 throttle body with a throttle potentiometer and then couple Motec to it to run the car correctly."
Rgds
Melv
pncarrerars
New member
Thanks Melvin & Colin for that reply. I had already adjusted mine along the lines suggested and the behaviour was much better than before but still not quite right.
It sounds as though I need to open the throttle plate a bit more as I had set it to idle at 800rpm with the ISV disconnected.
It sounds as though I need to open the throttle plate a bit more as I had set it to idle at 800rpm with the ISV disconnected.
Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members
Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions
