arb drop link
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Guest
New member
Pic. of my new drop link.
After ringing round a couple of companies found that you can only purchase these items from an OPC.
With the 10% discount total for one came to £49.48
P951.343.043 concave washers x2 40p
p951.343.075.00 bush (drop link) £29.63
p951.343.793.00 rubber bush £9.18
p951.343.795.00 rubber mount x2 £2.86
After ringing round a couple of companies found that you can only purchase these items from an OPC.
With the 10% discount total for one came to £49.48
P951.343.043 concave washers x2 40p
p951.343.075.00 bush (drop link) £29.63
p951.343.793.00 rubber bush £9.18
p951.343.795.00 rubber mount x2 £2.86
Diver944
Active member
Interesting to note the price changes over 5 years. Here are the prices from my invoice in 2000 for exactly the same parts
P951.343.043 concave washers x2.............74p
p951.343.075.00 bush (drop link)..........£19.64
p951.343.793.00 rubber bush................£3.49
p951.343.795.00 rubber mount x2..........£2.08
at least you got the washers cheaper than me [
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Guest
New member
ORIGINAL: flamingeye
Pic. of my new drop link.
After ringing round a couple of companies found that you can only purchase these items from an OPC.
With the 10% discount total for one came to £49.48
P951.343.043 concave washers x2 40p
p951.343.075.00 bush (drop link) £29.63
p951.343.793.00 rubber bush £9.18
p951.343.795.00 rubber mount x2 £2.86
I just got 4 new rubber mounts at £1.43 each from OPC so that's bang on with your pricing, hopefully i wont need to go back and get new drop links as well. Only difference is the part number, mine is P951.343.795.01
I take it you have to fit the bush into the droplink before fitting it to the end of the ARB - can't see another waqy of doing it.
Guest
New member
Paul,
Most of us that still have functioning 944/51s in the States don't drive the things when salt is being laid down. Or at all, in winter. I'll take my 951S out in the winter if the roads are clean and dry. I live in Minnesota so we get more than our fair share of snow and salt.
Even still, that sway bar pic looks really bad compared to mine. I just replaced all the rubber sway bushings last December and my bar has the original black paint on it and looks more or less new when I cleaned the grime off it. No rust at all.
But I have always run with the under belly pans in place. Maybe 944 S2 is running without and the bar got road rashed?
In any event, I'd take that bar off and either replace it with a 30mm or clean it up and paint with an epoxy paint or powder coat. I don't think the powder coat oven would mess up the heat treating the bar originally had but he might want to check that out.
Guys over here have done powder coat melts in their home cooking oven, a sway bar wouldn't fit unless you have an industrial sized oven. Oh, and if you have any women in the house, you definately don't want to do the powder coat in your home oven. For some crazy reason women don't like the taste of paint in their food. LOL!
Most of us that still have functioning 944/51s in the States don't drive the things when salt is being laid down. Or at all, in winter. I'll take my 951S out in the winter if the roads are clean and dry. I live in Minnesota so we get more than our fair share of snow and salt.
Even still, that sway bar pic looks really bad compared to mine. I just replaced all the rubber sway bushings last December and my bar has the original black paint on it and looks more or less new when I cleaned the grime off it. No rust at all.
But I have always run with the under belly pans in place. Maybe 944 S2 is running without and the bar got road rashed?
In any event, I'd take that bar off and either replace it with a 30mm or clean it up and paint with an epoxy paint or powder coat. I don't think the powder coat oven would mess up the heat treating the bar originally had but he might want to check that out.
Guys over here have done powder coat melts in their home cooking oven, a sway bar wouldn't fit unless you have an industrial sized oven. Oh, and if you have any women in the house, you definately don't want to do the powder coat in your home oven. For some crazy reason women don't like the taste of paint in their food. LOL!
Guest
New member
Correctamundo chief, i am upgrading the front to a good condition 26.8mm one, and an identical even better condition standard 16mm one. Both have been cleaned down and a top coat spray of smoothrite to help longevity, as i drive it in all weathers as an everyay car.
The underside of the car is getting / LOTS of TLC this coming weekend and the following one too, it'll be good as new under there. Brake hoses look a little white and mis-shapen where they rise up at the back, doesn't look good at all.
Doing the centre caps tonight and tomorrow, total stip down and repaint by hand.
Here is a pic of the refurbed ARBs[
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Guest
New member
and the brake hoses i mentioned [] , makes me want to cry - hopefully i can catch all the corrosion before its gone too far, i think its mostly superficial []
P.S. belly pan is in place, i've only had it 3 months - was from down south for first 10-11 yearsw and mostly garaged, then last 2-3 years been neglected and last year used as a heavy milage comuter 1000miles/week
] , makes me want to cry - hopefully i can catch all the corrosion before its gone too far, i think its mostly superficial []P.S. belly pan is in place, i've only had it 3 months - was from down south for first 10-11 yearsw and mostly garaged, then last 2-3 years been neglected and last year used as a heavy milage comuter 1000miles/week
Guest
New member
Those bars look real nice. Like mine.
When you sock the front drop link nuts home on the A-Arm, the torque is supposed to be 17 to 20 ft lbs on the nuts. I think I cranked mine to around 40 or 50 so need to back them off a bit. It can be sort of misleading with the rubber bushings and pinch thread lock nut so break out the torque wrench.
When you sock the front drop link nuts home on the A-Arm, the torque is supposed to be 17 to 20 ft lbs on the nuts. I think I cranked mine to around 40 or 50 so need to back them off a bit. It can be sort of misleading with the rubber bushings and pinch thread lock nut so break out the torque wrench.
Guest
New member
ORIGINAL: IceShark
Those bars look real nice. Like mine.
When you sock the front drop link nuts home on the A-Arm, the torque is supposed to be 17 to 20 ft lbs on the nuts. I think I cranked mine to around 40 or 50 so need to back them off a bit. It can be sort of misleading with the rubber bushings and pinch thread lock nut so break out the torque wrench.
I just tightened mine with a spanner till i coudnt tighten no more, 17lbft is not very much. Mine are probably 40 -50 atleast.
Guest
New member
That wasn't exactly my original approach but we are probably sitting in the same position. Outside of how tight to squish the rubber bushings together what you may do is run the nut far enough that it starts to cut new threads on the drop link and gall everything up.
I think we are probably both OK as no one has told me how squishing the rubber too tight is a major problem other than maybe messing up the nut which is piss cheap. People are using mono balls on some high end drop links so we can't be any tighter than those.
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