Menu toggle

Arc of the covenant

mr brightside

New member
After the recent and interesting thread about the benefits of servicing and renewing your ignition components I did some research into the fundamentals of ignition and spark formation, which was confusing at times and left me slightly puzzled as to how to apply the information. However, if the book turns out to be a bit too long winded I could always use its substantial weight to corner balance my car.

Spark formation occurs in three stages, the first of which is the breakdown phase where ionizing streamers bridge the electrode gap and create a plasma channel, this stage is characterised by very high voltage and current values and a very short duration time of 10nS. A shock or blast wave propagates outwards at this point into which some 30% of the breakdown phase energy is applied, however most of this energy is recuperated due to the blast waves transferring most of their energy into a 2mm diameter cross sectional sphere into which the plasma soon expands. This expansion initiates the arc phase when the thin cylindrical plasma strand expands rapidly due to heat conduction and diffusion, and the exothermic effect of the fuel beginning to burn. This is followed by the glow discharge phase when the coil will dump all of its remaining energy into the discharge circuit. There are significant voltage drops in both the arc and glow discharge stages due to heat losses to the spark plug electrodes, 50 and 70 percent respectively. The breakdown phase has the highest power level (1MW), but the energy supplied is small (0.3-1 mJ). The glow discharge has the lowest power level (10W), but the highest energy (30-100mJ) due to its long duration time, and the arc phase lies in between. The arc and glow discharge phases last approximately 4-5 times longer that the breakdown phase.
Kernel temperatures inside the plasma cylinder are far too high to allow combustion material to exist; 60,000K for the breakdown phase, 6000K and 3000K respectively for arc and glow discharge phases. So combustion will only take place around the outer surface of the plasma cylinder, and it's worth noting that increasing the energy input will not produce higher temperatures but larger plasma cylinders during the breakdown and arc stages.
At 20us after discharge is initiated there must be sufficient progress of ignition so as to be self-sustaining, thus the characteristics of the breakdown phase have the biggest impact on good combustion. Energy inputs at this stage are far less likely to be lost as heat and contribute far more towards flame propagation, whilst inputs in the latter two stages are most likely to be lost to heat. The minimum amount of energy required to properly ignite the mixture increases rapidly as the mixture leans out due to improper flame propagation.

In conclusion; the worse the condition of conducting components (rotor arm, dizzy cap, leads and plugs) is, then the more the breakdown phase will be starved of energy resulting in the slower growth of a smaller plasma cylinder leading to poorer flame propagation and less power. Also, the leaner the mixture then the larger the plasma cylinder must grow before successful inflammation will occur and this point is likely to be outside the 20us limit. Obviously ignition timing is absolutely critical. Ignition energy supplied after the breakdown phase has only a modest effect on flame propagation, ergo the timing and quality of the breakdown phase is proportional to good combustion and affected greatly by component condition.

I would welcome any comments/elaborations on my conclusions or findings presented, this is about the best I can do with such complicated material.
 
Mr B I congratulate you on a, the reading of the tome and b, presenting it concisely and in a manner that I can understand!

Result - will be replacing rotor arm and dizzy asap.

Thanks

Mike
 
As a note, if you change the cap and arm, use the genuine or Bosch part, not the Beru or other ones, they never run right with the cap for example unless its the Bosch one, the Bosch one can be identified by it having a black plastic shield around it, whereas the other ones are just terracotta coloured bares ones.

You can almost back to back test them... with the non bosch part you find the hydrocarbons are elevated, the engine isnt as smooth and the performance is deminished.
 

ORIGINAL: Indi9xx

As a note, if you change the cap and arm, use the genuine or Bosch part, not the Beru or other ones, they never run right with the cap for example unless its the Bosch one, the Bosch one can be identified by it having a black plastic shield around it, whereas the other ones are just terracotta coloured bares ones.

You can almost back to back test them... with the non bosch part you find the hydrocarbons are elevated, the engine isnt as smooth and the performance is deminished.

Or just dump them all together [;)]
 
ORIGINAL: A9XXC

Mr B I congratulate you on a, the reading of the tome and b, presenting it concisely and in a manner that I can understand!

Result - will be replacing rotor arm and dizzy asap.

Thanks

Mike
Cheers for the congrats Mike, i was afraid people might find me to have too much time on my hands and to be obsessing over split hairs but the earlier thread got me thinking about the hows and whys of it all.

I am also changing my ignition components soon and will be going genuine/bosch.
 
Very informative post, and quite interesting. Thanks for the info, it clears the ambiguity somewhat around ignition and engine performance. Like I said before an engine is only as good as the ignition system it has.

Edd
 
ORIGINAL: Copperman05

Like I said before an engine is only as good as the ignition system it has.

Edd
True, more so than i'd ever have thought, no wonder everyone's putting stand alone ECU's on their old Fords etc.
 

ORIGINAL: Indi9xx

As a note, if you change the cap and arm, use the genuine or Bosch part, not the Beru or other ones, they never run right with the cap for example unless its the Bosch one, the Bosch one can be identified by it having a black plastic shield around it, whereas the other ones are just terracotta coloured bares ones.

You can almost back to back test them... with the non bosch part you find the hydrocarbons are elevated, the engine isnt as smooth and the performance is deminished.
Interesting ... you'll have seen my 'alternative part fitment' thread about fitting a Volvo cap to an S2? That runs much better than the old one (old Bosch vs. new Volvo Beru).

The black plastic cover can be easily swapped over (which I did.) Are you saying that it is the cover that makes the difference, or just that it makes the different caps easy to spot?


Oli.
 

Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members

Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions

Disclaimer

The opinions expressed on this site are not necessarily those of the Club, who shall have no liability in respect of them or the accuracy of the content. The Club assumes no responsibility for any effects arising from errors or omissions.

Porsche Club Great Britain gives no warranties, guarantees or assurances and makes no representations or recommendations regarding any goods or services advertised on this site. It is the responsibility of visitors to satisfy themselves that goods and/or services supplied by any advertiser are bona fide and in no instance can the Porsche Club Great Britain be held responsible.

When responding to advertisements please ensure that you satisfy yourself of any applicable call charges on numbers not prefixed by usual "landline" STD Codes. Information can be obtained from the operator or the white pages. Before giving out ANY information regarding cars, or any other items for sale, please satisfy yourself that any potential purchaser is bona fide.

Directors of the Board of Porsche Club GB, Club Office Staff, Register Secretaries and Regional Organisers are often requested by Club members to provide information on matters connected with their cars and other matters referred to in the Club Rules. Such information, advice and assistance provided by such persons is given in good faith and is based on the personal experience and knowledge of the individual concerned.

Neither Porsche Club GB, nor any of the aforementioned, shall be under any liability in respect of any such information, advice or assistance given to members. Members are advised to consult qualified specialists for information, advice and assistance on matters connected with their cars at all times.

Back
Top