Arnnworx rear wheel bearing tool?

[zcacogp]

Chaps,

Quickie. Does anyone have an Arnnworx rear wheel bearing tool who would be willing to lend it to me? (For the cost of postage plus a few beers, of course.)

Thanks.

Oli.

 

[Monkeythree]

Oli,
I don't have the Arnworx tool but I do have a full professional set which covers every conceivable bearing size you are likely to come across. You are very welcome to borrow it if no-one comes up with an Arnworx for you but it weighs about 25kg so not really suitable for popping in a Jiffy bag!
Tom

 

[zcacogp]

Tom,

Thanks for the offer. The job I want to do is remove the inner rear axle, which is part 1 on this diagram.

I was assuming that I'd need to take the bearing out to do this but looking at things more closely I'm not so sure. What does the inner surface of the bearing support - does it support part 1 or part 6? Or, putting it another way, if the hub nut is removed then does part 1 tap fairly easily backwards or does it require significant force (which will probably destroy the bearing, meaning it needs to be changed)?

Thanks,


Oli.

 

[robdimond]

I think your biggest problem is going to be removing nut number 4 which apparently requires a giant impact gun or a huge breaker bar and something to counter the hub with.

 

[zcacogp]

Rob,

I have a fairly long breaker bar and a socket of the right size so am willing to wade on in and have a go. The issue is what I will find when I am in there.

The problem is that I have the end of a snapped CV joint bolt stuck in the inner part (number 1) and need to take that part out to remove the remains of the bolt. How hard is it to get part number 1 out? If it's easy then I'll tackle it in a dull couple of hours. If it's hard then I'll need to trundle off to see a friend ....


Oli.

 

[Monkeythree]

Oli,
The drive shaft (1) sits in the bearing and once you have removed the hub (6), should just slide out without needing to remove the bearing. As Rob says, the hard part might be getting the hub nut off. If it's tight then I would weld up a plate with a long strong arm to bolt onto the hub and then the end of the arm can react against the ground while you put torque onto the nut.

If you are taking it all apart it might be worth changing the bearing anyway while you are in there?

 

[edh]

I think Rich (Golfprorich) on here has one..

 

[PAUL RUDDY]

Do not underestimate what it takes to remove that hub nut !

I had a 3/4 drive socket with breaker bar an extension and the weight of the car resting on it and it still would not undo.

I also tried a professional Snap On nut gun without joy.

Eventually I had to cut both nuts off.....the car.

Once you get that nut off the rest just pulls apart easy.

 

[Monkeythree]

Self castration.....OUCH! Make sure the chisel is sharp!

 

[Monkeythree]

Self castration.....OUCH! Make sure the chisel is sharp!

 

[edh]

I bought a cheap electric impact wrench a few years ago - only £60 but has been great for jobs like this. Bought from Clas Ohlsen but looks like they don't sell it any more. Hub nuts on Boxster & Honda civic shifted without a problem,(after trying with long bar + scaffold pole..) also lower rear shock bolts, crank bolt (on removed engine without a flywheel lock) . Never needed to try the 944 hub nuts though.

 

[944Scott]

I actually fancied doing this job less than the clutch so I paid someone else £90 to do it []

 

[Psenior1]

I've got one of the Arnnworx tools, I need it for the next couple of weeks as I'm planning on doing the bearings both sides before a trip to the Nurburgring and Spa GP in August, but after that I'm happy to either sell it on or lend it out....

 

[vitesse]

I've used one of my Draper Impact wrenches for this sort of job-remove the end driver holder ,fit appropriate socket,hold with a padded glove(invaluable) & smack with a lump hammer &/or get a trusty friend to use a small sledgehammer??

 

[ALZ 1933]

You will find when you pull the hub off (No 6) using a slide hammer the inner bearing ring will come out with the hub, destroying the bearing in the process & leaving you no option but to replace the bearing.

 

[zcacogp]

Chaps,

Thanks for the answers. I've booked a day to go and see a practical friend to do the job and I'm thinking we may not tackle the wheel bearing after all, as it is not showing any problems. We need to take the back hub (Part 1 in the diagram) out so I plan to leave the front one in place so hopefully the bearing will remain in one piece.

Having said that, I can see an advantage in having an Arnnworx tool so thanks for your offer PSenior1 - I'll PM you.


Oli.

 

[zcacogp]

Quick update to this; visit to practical friend had the whole job done in slightly more than an hour. It went as follows;

- Jack up car
- Remove driveshaft, tackling the CV bolts with stripped out heads along the way
- Remove wheel, tap out centre cap, replace wheel
- Put car on floor, insert socket through wheel with brakes on, undo outer nut
- Tap out centre axle
- Clean axle, inspect, drill out broken bolt stub
- Apply copaslip, reinsert axle in hub, replace nut, replace driveshaft
- Torque up nut, torque up wheelnuts, take for test drive

And that nut - was it tight or what! Well it may have been tight but it wasn't a big deal to get off. Using 3/4inch drive 32mm socket, 2 metre breaker bar (scaffold tube) and my sylphlike 8 stone* bulk on the end of it and it came undone gently and smoothly! I was expecting at least some swearing and a big 'bang' but there was nothing of the sort. I guess I should apologise to the assembled company for making a mountain out of a molehill but it really was no biggie!

Oli.

* - I was at the peak of my dieting success two days ago but things may have changed slightly since ....