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Bad cold starting

T

the_dr38

New member
Hi all, how we doing?

When first starting in the morning or after being left for a while it starts (usually with no problem but sometimes after about 10 turns) and when you press the pedal and release it the revs increase and then drop almost to the point of cutting out and then go back up to idle again. I know you should let every car warm up but I dont really have 10 minutes to sit and wait every time the car is cold. This problem means that gear changes are difficult too when first driving. Anyone got any ideas? I notice that the idle has become slightly lumpy too, I had a full service recently but for cash so I don't have a receipt and also dont know whether the leads and plugs ETC were changed, Im assuming not for £160. Do you think a dizzy cap would help?


Also have a few niggly bits I may as well sort out while I'm on the subject. Any ideas where I can get a new arm rest lid? Also gear stick has lost quite a bit of leather, need new front mats. Interior light doesnt come on with door, erm what else?........... Is there a nack to opening the boot? needs a good hard slam to close but opening seems to take a while of continuous tugging until it wants to let me open it.

Thats enough moaning, she's generally been well since I had her back from the menders, brakes seem great. Oh yeah that poxy brake pad light is still on!!!!!!!

PLUS I got beaten today in a drag race against a new mini, but im not too bothered bcos I think it was one of those super raced up ones, sounded more like a TVR and it didnt exsactly beat me by much, but it led me to question my BHP, 0-60 time? I thought the 2.7 was around 170 BHP and 8 secs to 60????????

Regards

Lloyd
 
Hi Lloyd,

Sorry but I'm not sure what your issue is, perhaps if the car has been left for a while the fuel creeps back down the fuel rail making for difficult starting. I would'nt worry about warming the engine up, my 944 manual doesnt recommend it, says you should just drive away, I guess this is due to the fact that the engine will warm up quicker this way anyway, just dont red line it till its up to temp and you should be ok

Regarding being beat by a new mini, well these cars are over 20 years old now and are not that quick compared to some modern cars, and I guess this is why many people like having a turbo!

Edd
 
Yes I wasnt too bothered because I was safe in the knowledge that I was in a Porsche and they were in a Mini

Lloyd
 
Bugger I cannot for the life of me remember how I solved that exact problem on a friends 2.5 lux but I think it was just a sticking idle control valve that worked better as it got warm and freed up a bit.

I would also get a cloth and gently clean the inside of your air flow sensor with a cloth and some electrical cleaner, both the flap and the track under the black plastic cover to insure nothing is sticking. Finally take your J boot (intake to throttle body) off and give it a good clean, check for cracks/leaks. These things are free and can only help. My friends can ran far smoother after we did this lot but couldn't tell you which bit cured it.

Finally dizzy cap/rotor arm is usually responsible more for misfiring than anything else but for the price its probably worth changing. I bought mine from Bert at Berlyn services online. Cost about £35 but that was a few years ago
 
Mine has exactly the same problem but never really bothered me just thought that was how it just is,
Tom
 
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