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Body clay usage?

cococola

New member
I clayed my 944 and did the full body treatment back in December,left car looking good.
My question is when should I clay again I did think to just use the polish retreatment less the clay after 6 months and then maybe reclay after 12 months[8|]
 
I can't see much wrong with claying every few months. Depends on how long the wax lasts. I am using Meguirs Tech Wax at the mo and to be honest I don't think it lasts more then 2 months at the most. Therefore some amount of polishing and or clay bar action would be required maybe 3 times a year or more. I would imagine that given what each does it would be more acceptable to clay on a regular basis then polishing. If one assumes that by polishing we are reffering to paint correction, rather then given the car a quick once over with something like Autoglymn super resin polish.
 
I use Meguirs step 1 to 3 polishes and from info given on this site I dont use the autoglmn resin anymore
ORIGINAL: Neil Haughey

I can't see much wrong with claying every few months. Depends on how long the wax lasts. I am using Meguirs Tech Wax at the mo and to be honest I don't think it lasts more then 2 months at the most. Therefore some amount of polishing and or clay bar action would be required maybe 3 times a year or more. I would imagine that given what each does it would be more acceptable to clay on a regular basis then polishing. If one assumes that by polishing we are reffering to paint correction, rather then given the car a quick once over with something like Autoglymn super resin polish.
 
38 SECONDS?...come round and do mine if you like[:D][:D]..oh and I notice at this time of thread you are on 944 posts...was that deliberate?[;)]
ORIGINAL: mik_ok

I would clay it ~ since waxing after claying only takes 38seconds anyway.
 
Clay should only be used to remove deposit and detritus that have adhered to the paintwork.

Once you have clayed a panel it 'should' not need to be done again if you keep the panel waxed properly. Regular waxing will stop deposits sticking to the paint. A good test is to put your hand in a plastic bag then feel the paintwork. If it needs claying you will feel all the deposits through the bag. A nice smooth surface will have the bag gliding across and you know you will not need to clay.
 
Clay should only be used to remove deposit and detritus that have adhered to the paintwork. Once you have clayed a panel it 'should' not need to be done again if you keep the panel waxed properly.

Brilliant......I`m off to get my shovel, we have loads of clay in the field next door.................................
 
I thought so as when I clayed my 944 I was very impressed with all the cack that came off the paintwork considering how clean I thought the car was.I have used stage 1to 3 Meguirs today and it looks a treat [8D]
ORIGINAL: Diver944

Clay should only be used to remove deposit and detritus that have adhered to the paintwork.

Once you have clayed a panel it 'should' not need to be done again if you keep the panel waxed properly. Regular waxing will stop deposits sticking to the paint. A good test is to put your hand in a plastic bag then feel the paintwork. If it needs claying you will feel all the deposits through the bag. A nice smooth surface will have the bag gliding across and you know you will not need to clay.
 
Steve,I would reccommend claying your car the follow on with stages 1 to 3 and I guarantee that you will be well pleased with the result.
ORIGINAL: skendrick

Is clay better than stage one, I use the three stages and never used the clay bar, what's better?
 
I do my car now once a year now, and the following stops it going pink altogether. Not cheap but the oxidation was pretty terminal till I did the following last June:

Wash car with fairy liquid using two buckets
Clay car, everywhere including windows door shuts etc. This removes microscopic detritus which won't be removed by polishing or you would rather not grind into you paintwork if it works loose.
Sonus 1 to remove swirls and oxidation using PC with whatever colour foam pad required.I forget now
Sonus 3 to polish to mirror finish using another foam pad using PC. can't remeber which one either
1x Coat of Rejex polymer sealant. (everything, windows tyres, the lot) by hand. Allow to set. 12hrs I think
2x Coats of Concours Swissol leaving to set as directed. Applly thinly with PC and foam pad.
Buff with buffing pad and PC. and a light spray of water

Wash car only with water or the correct shampoo there after. I only washed the car twice in the last year, and it lives outside in London.

All the above using a PC. By hand it is impossible. trust me I tried for years. Use a rotary polisher at your peril unless you are well experienced. You can burn the paint or polish right throught it in a matter of seconds. Halfrauds polishers and the like: absolutely 2000% more useless than walking up an ice hill on roller skates.

Not cheap, but ten hours a year well spent. I have better things to do than waste time with off the shelf crap 6-12 times a year.

This is not an advert. I don't sell this stuff, know anyone who does, nor do this for a living. It works on my paintwork but may not be suitable for everyones.
 
ORIGINAL: Mikie_gb

Wash car with fairy liquid using two buckets
Erm, take care washing with Fairy Liquid as it contains a lot of salt and WILL make your car rust.

Try a shampoo - any car shampoo - as it won't have this effect.


Oli.
 
My car has paint that stops it rusting. The bits that don't (callipers) are crimson with rust already. The bits that don't have paint that should (doors and cills) get repainted immediately to stop the SALT from the SEA AIR and GRITTED ROADS in winter turning the car to a pile of red dust on the driveway. A squirt of Fairy Liquid in a bucket of water is on page 500 of my little book of car worries right below asteroid stikes.

The idea is to strip existing wax off not preserve it with specially formulated car shampoo. After it is waxed is another story.
 

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