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Boost controller

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carlmthompson

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Eventually got round to fitting my boost controller - had to get some connextors fabricated to make it fit without destroying the bits that would turn it back to normal!
And as everyone said it has transformed the car!
After messing about a bit (the boost started at about 2.2 bar which lasted about 10 seconds before the knock sensor cut in!) i've got it so that the boost starts earlier, builds up to just over 2bar (using the stock guage so difficult to say for sure!) before rolling back nicely to around 1.9 bar by 6k revs. The power curve is noticably smoother, and there is a noticable increase also - which is nice!
I have two questions for you knowledgable people:-
1) Is this a safe level for what is otherwise a stock car?
2) I have the boost controller set at the very limit of it's adjustment - about another turn would see the top come out. Is this normal? it means I can't really adjust down anymore. I haven't shimmed the waistgate yet, but will this help or hinder?

Oh and please don't tell me I now need more bits - I promised myself I wouldn't go any further down the slippery slope!
 
When you say 2.0 or 1.9 bar what is giving you that reading? The new boost controller or the stock dash boost gauge? More to the point is it absolute bar or psi because if it's psi you're running well over 20 lbs/in. I think you must be going off the stock gauge in which case you're running around 12-14psi which is just a bit more than standard. You should have no worries at this level.
 
Provided the stock chips are in there (and as 333pg333 said you are using the indash guage) then you should be fine. Is it a boost enhancer, accuboost, reliaboost or a black knob manual boost controller?
Tony
 
standard guage and bar as per my post(?) and the black top manual boost controller.
All slightly irrelevant as the problem lay with a kink in the rather substandard piping supplied.
haven't had a chance to test yet, but am assuming this was creating the same scenario as the valve pretty much closed, hence the overboost.
I'm running stock chips, so at least there's a bit of protection there (luckily)
 
Good to hear you've sorted out the kinked pipe and can hopefully adjust the boost down to an acceptable level.

I wouldn't rely on the dash gauge though, as 2 bar is the max it can go to. If it reads 2 bar you could actually have 2.2, or 2.4 or 3 [:eek:]

If you're still on standard chips then you don't want to go more than 0.8 bar of boost (1.8 on the gauge) as the fuelling could get very lean [:eek:]

Is your black knob MBC controlling the standard wastegate - I haven't heard of that being done before[&:]
 
The standard chips are designed to work with a single port wastegate and the cycling valve. Like Paul i'm not sure how you'd rig up an MBC with a single port wastegate as the wastegate spring will still open irrespective of what boost level the MBC is regulating. I found that when I was running std chips with my DPW&MBC at std boost levels (0.75bar) the knock protection/overboost would cut in under certain circumstances. I never plucked up the courage to increase boost using the std chips. Now i've fitted Promax level 2 chips, 3 bar FPR and increased boost to about 1.05 bar I can run with no problems at all - although my fuel consumption has suffered! Can't tell if it's due to me still utilising the extra boost or if it's due to the mapping of the new chips. The car walked the emissions at my recent MOT though - well under the limit.
 
Stick with the standard boost levels with the standard chips.

We run our KH chips at 1.2 to 1.3 bar of boost above atmospheric pressure without problems, standard chips and standard fuel pressure regulator will not supply the correct fueling and ignition timing for anything above standard boost levels.
 
I haven't looked at the ebay link, but you don't need any special boost controller for the TiAL; anything that works with the Lindsey DPW would be fine.
 
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