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Boot release/not releasing

penkhullwolf

PCGB Member
Member
Hi,

Thanks for the technical article on this. I have the same problem. Motor whirrs pulling both cables.

But think mine might be 'b. the mechanism is not pulling the catches back far enough when the motor turns. I think this is to do with stretch in a cable but its been a long time since I messed with one of these. I can tell you that I did manage to get it working with adjustment/fiddling and didn't have to buy any parts:) '

How do you get the cable detached from the release mechanism, to figure out why metal isn't moving back and forth freely? Can't figure it out (1991 s2).

Also, does anyone know the part number for the rubber that goes in the hatch release mechanism? as one of mine has perished (picture attached)

Thanks
 
If that goes down the bottom of the hatch pin hole you can't buy that from Porsche,

But there is a place in the USA that you can get repair kits from
 
Kongsodoken said:
what do the latches cost these days .? I remember buying them for around £25 each 3 years ago[:-]


Think they are about £50 each now Ken
hows the garage coming along

checked today £98.06 each

 
penkhullwolf said:
Thanks Waylander.

Do you know how to undo the hatch lock mechanism from the rod attached to it?

Cheers



I can’t remember, I will go have a look tomorrow
the 968 is slightly different, no Inserts in the catches


Update:-

the rods are on with Ball Sockets, they have little tiny wire clips holding them in
 


Think they are about £50 each now Ken
hows the garage coming along

checked today £98.06 each


[/quote]


£98 WOW maybe I should break my car

im about to start the garage build and final car build thread - watch This space

 
Thanks for posting this thread - I've had a squeaky hatch for ages and didn't know about these pin seats. When I investigated I found mine were destroyed. For the time being I've replaced them with a pair of 20mm pvc grommets - the ones supplied for use in the knock-out holes on electrical wall boxes - and the silence is heavenly! Obviously they won't allow for drainage, so I will get some of the US made replacements.
To answer your other question (probably too late as you'll have been in there and done it by now), the mechanism connects to the latch by means of a rod with a ball & socket on the end. The socket on the rod has a little plastic catch you have to release before pulling it off the ball on the latch's lever (Go to the US suppliers website and look at their excellent fitting & adjustment information for pictures). You can adjust the effective length of the rod by screwing or unscrewing the plastic ball joint on the threaded rod.
 
I’ve just ordered new Gas struts for the tailgate, and they came right length but without the spade end connectors for the wiring top and bottom. All the ones I’ve seen in the Internet don’t seem to have theae connectors - anyone managed to take the connections off the existing strut and fit to the replacement or is this a non- starter?
 
Those are from SGS engineering

I got some from euro car parts when the deal was on and they have the spades, so do the genuine ones,

You will find your heated rear window won't work either as the off side one has a plastic end fitting it should be steel



 

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