brake caliper brackets

[sawood12]

Anyone have a detail drawing of the 220 turbo/S2 to 250 turbo/big black brake caliper brackets? I refuse to pay £90 for what appears to be a piece of metal with four holes drilled and tapped which I could get made up at work easy enough from some stainless steel offcuts (or even Titanium!!).

 

[944turboS]

Scott,
I don't have a drawing but I would be up for buying a set of adaptors for sensible money if someone does provide the dimensions.

 

[eastendr]

They don't run adaptors as standard. The turbo/250 hubs and calipers are radial mount. The preferred solution is to change to the correct hubs...

 

[John Sims]

Correct!

I used Kokeln radial mounts for a period. These were OK with worn disks but there isn't really sufficient clearance between the rear of the wider disks and the rubber cover to the track rod end. - see pictures.

I also had problems with the radial mounts coming loose. I wasn't over keen on applying monster torque to the aluminium threads and I doubt the heat cycling of differing metals helped.

Brakes are too important to bodge - get the proper hub assemblies and do it properly - and as for lashing something up out of a few offcuts []

 

[sawood12]

I totally agree in getting the proper hubs would be best but they are pretty tricky to find so I was thinking about using the brackets as an interim measure which is why i'm not keen to spend alot on them. The guys at PH Sportscars have been saying that they are getting less and less 944 stuff in at the moment as fewer are being written off - which is a good thing of course.

I wouldn't dream of bodging something up from offcuts - I would of course gain the employ of a very highly skilled machinist and use Titanium rather than Aluminium alloy, but the disks fouling with the track rod ends is a bit worrying.

 

[Big Dave]

Scott
Ive used the addapters on a couple of my cars. The rod ends DONT foul the discs.. Yes they are a bit closer, but the ONLY alternative is getting some proper hubs + spindles, + im sure you know how hard they are to not just find, BUT find at the right price + NOT bent....

 

[sawood12]

What would be the consequeces of fitting a 3mm spacer between the hub and the disk to push the disk out a few more mm's? Since I might end up manufacturing my own brackets i'm sure I could modify them to push the calipers out a further 3mm and i'm sure 3mm increase in offset on my front wheels will make sweet FA difference, in fact I think I probably need some spacers on my front wheels anyway. Luckily I have access to some quite hard core machinery at work so knocking up a couple of brackets will be a pretty quick job once the CNC programme has been created.

 

[John Sims]

ORIGINAL: Big Dave UK

....... The rod ends DONT foul the discs.....

They DON'T foul the disk but the space between the rubber boot on the track rod end and the back of the disk is almost too small to measure. I wasn't convinced that it wouldn't rub. It isn't apparent when you fit the disk and very difficult to see.

I was running drilled disks without a back plates and was concerned that if a stone was flicked between the rear of the disk and the track rod end nasty things might happen.

Subject to what wheels you are running, shimming the disk seems a good idea.

 

[sawood12]

Whatever caliper option I end up going for I would like to retain the back plate. If I go for the 250 turbo set up I see that the brake disc dia is not much larger than the 220 turbo disc dia so would I be able to retain my current back plate (maybe some minor mods to accommodate the larger calipers?

However If I go for something else that is larger e.g. big reds/blacks or Boxter S/996 calipers does the back plate unbolt from the hub so I can retrofit the appropriate back plate?

 

[John Sims]

A 220 back plate won't fit behind 250 disks. The increase in diameter and thickness of the disk means that the outer edge of the disk rubs on the rolled flange on the outside of the 220 back plate.

You can unbolt the back plate but it means dismantling the hub to get to the bolts. I just got an angle grinder to mine.

Noting my earlier comments I would try to leave the portion of the back plate behind the track rod end. I still think it will rub though.

 

[Fen]

I think the back plate does just unbolt, although it's probably a corroded mess. I just chopped mine down when I fitted my big blacks to let more air into the back of the disk.

 

[Hilux]

Brakes are too important to bodge - get the proper hub assemblies and do it properly

Emminently sensible advice but there are hundreds of cars out there that use caliper mount adapters. It is not dangerous IF the correct type, bolts and material are used IMHO The clamping force of a caliper is equal so the main purpose is for the caliper bolts to resist shear only.

 

[944Turbo]

ORIGINAL: sawood12

Anyone have a detail drawing of the 220 turbo/S2 to 250 turbo/big black brake caliper brackets? I refuse to pay £90 for what appears to be a piece of metal with four holes drilled and tapped which I could get made up at work easy enough from some stainless steel offcuts (or even Titanium!!).

I think some of your £90 would be going towards the time it took to get the dimensions of the mountings right.

However if you had both sets of calipers to hand it probably wouldnt be that hard to work out.

Tony

 

[sawood12]

I don't see how the caliper brackets are inherintly dangerous and even aluminium alloy threads can take 100 ft lb of torque like our wheel nuts.

The reason i'd want to retain the backing plates is because i would guess that the suspension arms and all the other gubbins behind the disc would get caked in brake dust. If it's not feasible i'll just remove them. When you say you get a angle grinder to them do you mean to cut off the bolts to remove the back plate intact, or do you cut the actual back plate away??

Sorry for all the detailed questions but I'm just wanting to make sure I understand every step of the process.

 

[944Turbo]

The shields are mostly holes on the 250 cars, not noticed any adverse effects from removing them when I went to BB's,
Tony

 

[Fen]

I took an angle grinder to the plates and cut the outer lip off, which took away all the strength and meant other bits had to come off also. I left a little tab (as I recall) between the disk and the track rod end to act as a heat shield for the rubber boot.