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Brake & Caliper Overhaul

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How often do you guys have your calipers stripped, cleaned and generally overhauled. Having a chat with a fellow enthusiast he mentioned that he used to have his done approx every two years, apparently when done the brakes are pin sharp and a big brake conversion is not really essential, if the OE kit is maintained properly it performs perfectly well on and off track. Left too long however they are about as good as a Ford Fiesta with a Caravan in tow [:D]

Mike
 
Totally agree. I had not realised that my brakes were below par until some other Porsche owning friends drove my car, and commented that my brakes were not up to snuff. Right enough, a strip down of the front calipers revealed a stuck pad, and after it was all re-assembled it was like night and day.

Also, while researching pads, I discovered that the whole caliper/disk/pad set-up is common to various Ferrari models of the same period.

JH
 
Mike

IMO the standard brakes are excellent for everyday and trackday use, but of course everything has to be in satisfactory condition. For harder use there are lots of opinions particularly on 968.net -- in summary better pads seem a quick upgrade if you are going to track it more but you may need to revert back to standard ones for safe road use.

I do not think major overhauls need to be considered on a regular basis. Having just done a full front brake job (at 96k miles) the main issue is the possibility of corrosion between the ally caliper and the s'steel pad location plates -- if corrosion occurs this can jam the pads and brake efficiency drops off accordingly. My car had it bad.

The test for this is very easy, if the pad can be pulled out by hand -- no probs. If the pads are being obstinate then caliper re-build time is approaching fast. Another tell tale sign is if one face of the disc does not seem to be shiny as it should be -- that could of course mean seized pistons but I have not heard of that as a problem. There was a full article in 911 & Porscheworld about a year ago on how best to do a re-build -- suffice to say that with these Brembo calipers there are some tricky stages and I chickened out and got a specialist to do the hardest bit.

Some mechanics are tempted for a quick fix in this situation to avoid the caliper re-build, they do it by grinding off some material from the side of the pads so they fit in easily. Quick temporary fix--or call it a bodge, but not really any sort of long term solution.

mike, that is my opinion for what it is worth.


paul
 
Just to clarify ... when I said strip down, I did not mean replacing the stainless pads. Luckily mine has not succumbed to pad lift, but one of the brake pads had stuck none the less. Just needed removed, cleaned, lubed and replaced. An easy, if dirty, job, and well worth doing.

Come springtime, I intend to use EBC Greenstuff pads, as I have heard good reports on them. Any comments?

JH
 
I had greenstuff on my MG and grooved the front discs something rotten, also on circuit I turned the discs blue and boiled the fluid. Wouldn't touch them with a barge pole[:mad:]

I now run Standard Mintex fast Road pads and silicon fluid without any problems, and along with the braided hoses the braking is now impeccable on circuit.

Pagid's are a good alternative too.

Mike
 
I had greenstuff on my MG and grooved the front discs something rotten

Hmmm ... I was considering them INSTEAD of Pagids, simply because they are supposed to be kinder to the discs! (and 968s EAT discs)

JH
 
The Mintex Pads have prooved to be a good all rounder on the MG. As for discs I'm on my second set the first set were shot after about 14K so I can't see the 968 being any worse although they are a tad bigger than my measily 283mm Honda Accord ones [;)], and probably twice as much [&:]
 
The last service, done by JZ Machtech, mentioned that the caliper plates were starting to lift and they would need doing at the next pad change. My pads are still ok but the discs are very near to the minimum thickness of 25mm, they have a big ridge round the outside and with a track day at Bedford on the 28th Feb i'm thinking maybe i should get them done before i go.

Now i was thinking of EBC Green stuff too, but this thing with the discs getting scored and turning blue, hmm. It appears that the EBC G's don't produce as much dust as the average pad and they need a little more heating up to get them to their best, so it sounds like they must be a bit harder than the Porsche standard equipment.

I constantly hear from forum members, which are usually a little biased anyway but also from knowledgable friends and in track day books that Porsche brakes are highly regarded and make other expensive manufacturers brakes look poor in comparision, where theirs start to fade after a few enthusistic laps, the Porsche brakes are well up to the job, i'm not saying racing but just track days.

I haven't heard of anyone else complaining of their discs/rotors being savaged by these pads, could it be something to do with NOT using Porsche original equipment? where their materials are better? I know some people fit other/cheaper products than Porsche replacement discs etc and maybe that causes the extra wear and tear.

Del.
 
Del

I am a trackday novice, done 3 so far in my 968. The standard arrangement of brakes has worked very well for me, no hint of fade and when called upon they really do stop the car well.

See this picture of a loads of brake bits from 968.net (and a bit more besides!)

968 brake bits thread

I think I have Pagids on the front with my re-furbed calipers and non-OEM Zimmerman discs. Nb The non-OEM discs are self finished wheras the Porsche originals are painted silver (except on the contact surfaces!!) -- this is easily rectified with a can of high temp ally spray paint -- works out mighty cheap and they continue to look good through the spokes of the rims.


paul
 
Can someone put me in the picture, am I being thick ?? there seem to be different part no's for pads F & R some say the front and rear are the same part others quote different pads. Same with discs.

What do I actually need for mine ?

Mike
 
Mike

The following is cribbed from the parts catalogue, not from any mechanical knowledge on my part (yet to find evidence of any [8|])

The front and rear discs are different, or at least have different part numbers.

Front: 951.351.041.02
Rear: 951.352.041.02

The pads are listed as having the same part # front and rear: 951.351.939.08

(the above for the standard setup, not for cars with the M030 sport package)
 
Thanks, So I'll blame you when I order the wrong stuff then [;)] the rear discs are pretty worn so I think I'll bite the bullet and do them at the same time as the pads.

Mike[:)]
 
I was just looking at the new Porscheshop website, courtesy of Mike's link. The brake pads listed are confusing, they show Front pads £38 and Front pads CS £48.80 now as AFAIK the brakes are identical on all 968 models except if you have M030. Can anyone else confirm or deny this?

Del.
 
Hi Mike,
I would definitely say that the front and rear discs at least are physically different as the rear set up has to house the handbrake kit as well.
 
just my view but I use greenstuffs on my turbo I don't think they groove the discs any worse than the standard items, they do create a bit more friction and therefore heat I have blued my discs on a Silverstone trackday (using slicks) and now run extra cooling. I dont think they offer much better stopping power than the standard items but produce a lot less dust and are relatively cheap compared to pagids or similar (which are very dusty).

I have heard that the grrenstuffs can brake up but didn't see any cracks despite the hard dry use at silverstone and a trip to the nurburbring. when I had greens front OPC rears the rears got dirty first now I have greenstuff allround.

With Zimmerman discs I have found it best to paint the centres with zinc rich paint or they go rusty quickly and look unsightly behind the cups.

Tony
 
Got problems with my fronts today. Had to pull up quickly this morning and the front right made a horrible noise almost like when the Pad has gone and also felt like it had locked. Looking thro' the spokes of the wheel all appears fine with plenty of meat left on the pads. Also I have reciepts for new front pads and disks a couple of months ago. Should the brakes have ABS ? if so it didn't feel like it.

Any suggestions other than a major strip down [:(]

Mike
 
If the ABS failed, I guess the first thing to check is the sensors at the wheels. They are exposed to all the grime and dust and are often the cause of ABS problems in my experience.

If the sensors are faulty, I think the ABS light should stay on after you start the car. Can anyone confirm that?

HTH

Chris
 
The ABS light will come on after the wheels have started turning at more than a certain speed - its quite low. A Bosch Hammer is, I think, the only way to test the sensors, but its probably worth cleaning them first anyway. It cost me 60 quid at an OPC for a test and one new sensor.

No Mark, MO30 was an option.
 
I'll give them a quick check over tonight, as its a bit dis-concerting [&:]


ORIGINAL: Mark Bennett

I thought the clubsport came as standard with M030?

No the CS has the same setup as the others unless M030 was specified when the car was first ordered.
 

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