Brake Calipers
- Thread starter rooksy
- Start date
With the car on secure axle stands and the roadwheel removed clamp the rubber brake line to prevent exess brake fluid loss (a special tool can be bought from Halfords for this, only a few quid, it's designed not to damage the hose).
Then undo the brake line at the calliper. Turn the steering wheel so you get the best access to the back of the calliper. Use either a ring spanner or quality socket & ratchet (19mm bolt I think). Undo. It will need plenty of force but apart from using an air wrench there is no other way.
When you refit the bolts use a dab of copper grease on the threads to make the job easier next time.
Then undo the brake line at the calliper. Turn the steering wheel so you get the best access to the back of the calliper. Use either a ring spanner or quality socket & ratchet (19mm bolt I think). Undo. It will need plenty of force but apart from using an air wrench there is no other way.
When you refit the bolts use a dab of copper grease on the threads to make the job easier next time.
Guest
New member
Try a penetrating spray for 24 hours before getting the wrench out again. If you have access to heat then heat them up till they are cherry red and then pop the wrench on and they should break free. I am in the same situation with my wife's Audi's nearside front caliper. I got the passenger side done and disc replaced but noticed some green threadlocker on the bolts. The other side is stuck solid even with 18 inchs of breaker bar and a second trolley jack on the end of the breaker bar - it got its new pads but the disc will have to wait.
DBA
New member
Be very careful with undoing the brake line at the caliper. I removed mine two weeks ago, and all that happenned is the pipe twisted. The pipe had fused with the nut.
New ones were very reasonable from my OPC (£7 I think) but had to wait for delivery from reading.
I then refurbished the caliper (Kits available for about £14), but am now terrified that I might not have done it properly, and the caliper might fail under heavy braking. I plan to get it refurbished professionally.
DBA
3.2 Carrera Cab in Cassis
New ones were very reasonable from my OPC (£7 I think) but had to wait for delivery from reading.
I then refurbished the caliper (Kits available for about £14), but am now terrified that I might not have done it properly, and the caliper might fail under heavy braking. I plan to get it refurbished professionally.
DBA
3.2 Carrera Cab in Cassis
rooksy
New member
I had another go at the weekend, managed to get the bolts out of the calipers[
] only to encounter the same problem as you with the pipe fused to the nut[]. Can you tell me anymore about the caliper kits out of interest, and what is involved. I think I'll let a mechanic sort them out, as they seem more technical compared to other cars I've replaced brake pads etc. on.
Cheers
Sean
] only to encounter the same problem as you with the pipe fused to the nut[]. Can you tell me anymore about the caliper kits out of interest, and what is involved. I think I'll let a mechanic sort them out, as they seem more technical compared to other cars I've replaced brake pads etc. on.Cheers
Sean
DBA
New member
The caliper refurbish kit consists of new rubber seals and a retaining spring for each piston in the caliper. It includes full instructions, and a number of the service books also describe the process, better than I can.
In summary, this is what I did, but please read the instructions and don't proceed unless you are happy with what you are doing - the pressures involved are large and potentially damaging.
To begin with I had to get the piston out of the caliper. Books, like the haynes manual talk about using an airline, I tried, but this was not going to do the job (couldn't get a good seal) so I reverted to using the braking system itself to push the caliper out. This is a two person job, as someone needs to shout when the piston is about to pop out.
Having removed the piston, check it for corrosion - and if corroded disgard it - mine was OK. I replaced the rubber seal within the caliper, lubricated it with some fresh brake fluid and replaced the piston. This was a difficult task, and broke my caliper compressing tool in the process. I refitted the dust cover and retaining clip, and that was it.
However what I cannot do (don't have the tools) is pressure test it - if you get it done professionally they do. So although it seems ok, I am now paranoid that they will fail under heavy braking so I am going to send them to the professionals for them to refurbish. I believe they also replace the pistons.
DBA
3.2 Carrera Cab
In summary, this is what I did, but please read the instructions and don't proceed unless you are happy with what you are doing - the pressures involved are large and potentially damaging.
To begin with I had to get the piston out of the caliper. Books, like the haynes manual talk about using an airline, I tried, but this was not going to do the job (couldn't get a good seal) so I reverted to using the braking system itself to push the caliper out. This is a two person job, as someone needs to shout when the piston is about to pop out.
Having removed the piston, check it for corrosion - and if corroded disgard it - mine was OK. I replaced the rubber seal within the caliper, lubricated it with some fresh brake fluid and replaced the piston. This was a difficult task, and broke my caliper compressing tool in the process. I refitted the dust cover and retaining clip, and that was it.
However what I cannot do (don't have the tools) is pressure test it - if you get it done professionally they do. So although it seems ok, I am now paranoid that they will fail under heavy braking so I am going to send them to the professionals for them to refurbish. I believe they also replace the pistons.
DBA
3.2 Carrera Cab
rooksy
New member
Thanks for taking the time to explain. I think I will leave it to the experts. What do you think of Haynes manual? I will only ever do basic job's, but get the impression from the forum they are not very good, or is it a case that they arn't technical enough for people who will be carrying out complex jobs.
Sean
Sean
The Haynes is good value for money. A good addition to my collection of manuals for the price.
I have just replaced all four brake calipers and f/r shocks on my 1988 3.2 Coupe Mileage 27,000. WD40 on the calipers overnight helps release the bolts but they will be very tight. I opted for rebuilt calipers which I bought from type911 for £76 each. They are hard to tell from new and save a huge amount of time/worry as to whether you've done the job right. They also look very nice. I've fitted steel braid hoses and have had no issues with fusing. I have also replaced the BOGE shocks with Bilsteins. Changing the front inserts was a very difficult job not as easy as suggested in 101 projects!
rooksy
New member
Did you change your bake pads at the same time, and if so did you get them from type911? Also did you have to replace the brake sensor?
I've contacted my local OPC to get a price and check if they had any pads in stock, and they advised my that I will have to replace the sensor on the pads they will sell me.
Sean
I've contacted my local OPC to get a price and check if they had any pads in stock, and they advised my that I will have to replace the sensor on the pads they will sell me.
Sean
No, the pads and discs were fairly new and the sensors just pull easly out of the front pads and you can leave the rear connected when you change the caliper as this is on a small spring. Obviously if the pads have worn down you need to replace these anyway because the sensors may be damaged. I wish I'd taken some photos now! The worst part of the job is getting the two caliper bolts undone and the copper pipes are a bit of a fiddle. Perhaps you should ask the OPC why they have to be replaced if they're undamaged.
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