Brake line removal

greig911 · Sep 8, 2015

I'm trying to remove my brake line to remove the whole caliper to change the colour.
I'm struggling to remove the brake line pipes. Anyone know what size of spanner to use? I've bought two proper spammers from halfords but the 10mm it too big and the 9mm it too small.

Richard_Hamilton · Sep 8, 2015

How about trying an old fashioned 3/8" A/F spanner, which is 9.525mm?

greig911 · Sep 9, 2015

Thanks Richard, I'll have a look for one and give that a try ????

JJ66 · Sep 17, 2015

Hi there, did you get your pipe nut moving? I'm pretty sure it should have been 10mm A/F but likely to have been rusted or worn hence the 10mm spanner didn't feel secure. The spanner you got from Halfords, was it a proper brake pipe spanner with a 5mm cut out to slip over the pipe and a six sided spanner section? If so that's the best tool to use. If you are still in danger of rounding the nut (a 3/8" was a good suggestion by the way!), you will need to get more serious with it, and you may need to 'waste' the pipe by cutting it and tapping a six sided socket onto the pipe nut. Or if you have the caliper off by this point, you may be able to get the nut in a vice and twist the caliper to release it. I've spent many a frustrating evening doing this and have got a number of techniques! Best one is if the pipe nut shears, leaving a flush (or even below the surface) remains of pipe nut in the caliper, I use my trusty MiG welder to carefully build a body of weld on the nut, then cool it rapidly with water, and keep doing that until there is enough protruding to get mole grips on, or tack weld a bolt to the remains of pipe nut. The heat and water shock normally release any corrosion or clamp that there was, and the nut comes out. I've even done it with Citroen pipe nuts which are smaller than standard ones! Hope you've got it sorted, if so great, but if you want other ideas let me know! Regards, Jonathan

greig911 · Sep 17, 2015

That's for your help.

I I bought new caliper lines from type911 cause I had to snap some of them. Some nuts were 10mm and others were 11mm strange I know, thought they would be all 10mm.

i bought a fparing tool kit with pipe so will be ues this for parts I'm struggling with.
thanks all

JJ66 · Sep 17, 2015

Good move, when the nut is rounding its usually best to call time on the pipe and cut it, giving you better access for a wider range of tools/grips. Plus, if you put a pipe back with a hex that is worn, its not a good thing for future maintenance. Looks better with new pipes too

. Buying a pipe flare tool is also good. If you are replacing pipes with ones you make yourself, use copper/nickel pipe rather than copper, as the pure copper pipe needs to be clipped more regularly as when it moves/vibrates it can work harden and crack. Or if you want to stay original, you can of course use steel pipe. Cheers, J

greig911 · Sep 18, 2015

I'm only needing about an inch and a new Nut. The connections and pipe are cooper is that bad then?

JJ66 · Sep 20, 2015

Copper is OK, you just have to be careful that it can't move under vibration/resonance. If you fit a normal brake line in copper, you have to clip it more frequently than steel or copper/nickel (Kunifer 10 is good stuff), I would say every 150 to 200mm. If the pipe is allowed to 'whip' or flex it can work harden and crack. Also watch out for pipe nuts, you can get them in brass but they are obviously weaker and you have to be careful when tightening as they are easy to shear or round off. I always use steel nuts. So, if you only need an inch or so then are you extending a pipe with an additional piece? If so then such a short piece will be OK so long as the existing pipe is correctly bracketed or isn't too long. Sorry if I've caused you worry, its just good to discuss these things and share experience/knowledge. Regards, Jonathan