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Brake Lines

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Chris_911

New member
I'm in the process of refreshing the brakes on my car. I've come to the conclusion that I need to buy some new rear calipers ('inner' piston on both seems to be very 'stiff', with inside face of both discs also in poor condition). I know I can rebuild but would rather save the hassle.

Working on the car today it looks as though the rigid brake line attached to the caliper will not come off without shearing the line itself. I've also got some new braided hoses and am expecting the same problem when trying to undo the rigid line fittings at the ends of the existing flexible hose.

What's my best option to get some new rigid lines? I note from my Porsche parts catalogue that the lines I need are listed with part numbers. Is the dealer the best option? I have no tools to make up new lines.

Any suggestions would be gratefully received - including any sources of new or reconditioned rear calipers.

Thanks!
 
Hi Chris,

I had similar issues on mine and Auto2000 exchanged the calipers for some refurbished items (held in stock) and made new solid pipes.
Excellent job and it didn't break the bank.
 
One more question - who is the cheapest source for a new pad pin set?

From the search I have made I cannot understand why the pin set is so expensive.
 
Chris,
This sounds very much like the problems I've just had with mine. Firstly, if you're replacing the flexibles, just cut them off so you can get a ring spanner onto the large hex on the back, they'll then just wind off the hard lines on the car. Even if the fittings are siezed on the hard lines (vehicle side) you can just screw the new flexibles onto them - saves going to the hastle of replacement until really needed. (You'll need a 15mm or 5/16 spanner at the inboard end at the back) However, the hard lines between the caliper and flexible is just easier replaced. I had a mate make some up for me and hand bent them myself, a very easy job. I'd imagine any decent garage would make them up for you for relatively little.
With regards to the calipers, don't shy off re-building them. I found that 3 of my calipers we really sticky or siezed, just take your time and ease the pistons out. I made up a fitting to go into the hydraulic 'hole' on the caliper (an old bike inner tube valve and stem!!!) and used a bike pump to get the pistons out. Just be carefull and make sure you work evenly on each piston or you end up with one stuck in place and no way of getting it out easily. Use a block of wood in between along with an old brake pad for safety.
The dust boots on mine had perrished and there was corrosion outboard of the hydraulic seal, a little scotch brite and WD40 had it cleaned off in no time. I reckon that most of the 'stickiness' was just that the seals had expanded with age and nothing more. The piston and bore (hydraulic side) were like new!!
With the seal kits only being £8 / corner and replacement calipers around £60 +VAT, I thought re-building was a no brainer.
With regards to the inner surface of you brake disc, sounds like you might need to replace it! Just be carefull if you don't, you might get some uneven brake performance.
One last tip, with an older car like ours where the master cylinder might not have been replaced, its worth using a pressure bleeder rather than pumping the pedal. If there's any wear on the spindle, it might well shread the seals when you press the pedal beyond its 'normal' stroke. BTW, just built my own pressure bleeder for £3.......!

Good luck,
 
Hi Phil

Thanks for your advice!. Great tip for the flexible hoses - hadn't thought of that and it will same me (hopefully) from replacing any more hard lines further back in the system.

Got new discs, pads, wear sensors and braided Goodridge hoses to go on all-round. Was half-expecting to find a problem with the rear calipers. Front calipers and brake lines were replaced by the PO probably two years ago now, so not expecting any surprises.

I've got a bit of time pressure so still keen on the rebuilt or new caliper route. I cannot move the inner piston in either rear caliper, even using the car's hydraulics. I may end up buying new and then rebuild my old ones as a minor project (and perhaps sell) when I have more time.

Only 49k miles on the clock, but this seems more like they are time-expired! Guess the low mileage probably worked against them.

I've got a Motive Products Power Bleeder - wonderful tool, well worth the very good price I got it for!

Thanks again Phil.
 

ORIGINAL: Chris_911

I cannot move the inner piston in either rear caliper, even using the car's hydraulics.
Click to expand...
Chris,
Sounds like you've got the right idea, if you can't move them under hydraulic pressure then you really do have a problem. Plenty of WD40 does help alot and with the rears you can get a lever under the dust seal lip and apply a little extra leverage.

Cheers,
 
Hi Phil

Ordered a pair of rebuilt calipers from Type 911 this morning. Seems reasonable at £76ea (+VAT) with a £40 core charge per caliper. Should have them tomorrow.

Classic Car Automotive would charge £58 (+VAT) to rebuild mine, with about a week turnaround from receipt. So cheaper, but the car would likely be out of commission for roughly two weeks.

Ordered the brake lines from my local OPC, at around £7 (+VAT) each. Also ordered some front sections so that I don't have to worry about any problems (save getting the dust cap off!) when I do the fronts.

Not going to bother replacing the pins and spring clip - I simply cannot believe that these items as a kit cost roughly £44 +vAT from your local OPC. I will clean mine up and paint the spring clip.

At least when I'm done the brakes should be as good as is possible, which will be no bad thing.
 

ORIGINAL: Chris_911
Not going to bother replacing the pins and spring clip - I simply cannot believe that these items as a kit cost roughly £44 +vAT from your local OPC. I will clean mine up and paint the spring clip.
Click to expand...
Yes, the fitting kit is bloody expensive, I got quoted £30 / axle set from my local specialist. When you actually look at what it consists of, it really is a rip off. I put mine in a bath of Gunk and gave them a clean with a tooth brush followed by a coat of copper slip for protection. I figured that I couldn't see them, so as long as they worked all will be fine!

I hope to get my last caliper back on tonight (I cross threaded my last hard pipe in the claiper!!) then bleed the lot through.....fingers crossed!
 
Re pins and clips , bear in mind these have been subjected to extreme heat. I would replace these with new items for safety's sake. Try some of the cheaper parts suppliers like German , French Swedish, Euro car parts etc. Also ask at places like Type 911 if they know of cheaper suppliers. Perhaps these are common components on some other cars such as Audi /VW.
 
Pete, even thought they see heat, they're not service items and the pins actually see very little loading. The caliper body takes all of that, the spring just stops any squeal.
 
You don't need the spring clips. I ditched mine and went to a pin that just kind locks in place when tapped in - doesn't even have any circlips to hold it. I don't know the part number but JAZ suggested it some time ago and it certainly makes changing the pads an easier, quicker job. I have not noticed any increase in squeal either.

RB
 
Is it a roll-pin Richard, if so you'd certainly want to remember which way you drifted it in.
 
I am not sure what you call it, but it only fits only way. You do need to be sure that you tap it all the way in, though once in, it has a certain amount of movement or freeplay. It also needs a fairly solid hit to get it out.
 
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