brakes are bindng - how to fix please?
- Thread starter sib8292
- Start date
I have been laying up my SC over the winter for many years now and piston sticking in the calliper has been a problem I have had on more than one occasion. Haven't experienced it on the C4 probably because it's used regularly. Often the sticking is evident only after braking when they continue squealing for an indefinite period afterwards. Can be the pads sticking though, which a bit of 'copper' grease on their edges has solved.
There is a proper way to do it I am sure but what has always worked for me is taking the the pads out and using a syringe and a needle (I am a doctor and getting that is easy and I suppose that may not be so easy for you) squirt a very small amount of brake fluid through the piston gaiter. After putting everything back together and using the brakes a few times the problem has gone. I make sure I make the hole at the bottom so that water is less likely to drip in but it's so small that it seems to seal. I did that first about 15 years ago and again about 6 years ago. I appreciate that brake fluid is a bit hygroscopic but so far so good.
I have had the car for all but the first six months of its life, its 28 years old done 140K and can confirm its still on its original callipers and gaiters (n fact most of the car is still original). Not convinced my newer 911 will last as well.
Dave Jones
There is a proper way to do it I am sure but what has always worked for me is taking the the pads out and using a syringe and a needle (I am a doctor and getting that is easy and I suppose that may not be so easy for you) squirt a very small amount of brake fluid through the piston gaiter. After putting everything back together and using the brakes a few times the problem has gone. I make sure I make the hole at the bottom so that water is less likely to drip in but it's so small that it seems to seal. I did that first about 15 years ago and again about 6 years ago. I appreciate that brake fluid is a bit hygroscopic but so far so good.
I have had the car for all but the first six months of its life, its 28 years old done 140K and can confirm its still on its original callipers and gaiters (n fact most of the car is still original). Not convinced my newer 911 will last as well.
Dave Jones
Further to last although I was talking about callipers is your problem the handbrake? I did have that once after a layup but it resolved spontaneously, I had given it a couple of thumps with a rubber mallet which made no difference probably. I don't use the handbrake during layups any more just in case.
Dave Jones
Dave Jones
Thanks for your reply
No I always leave the handbrake off when in the garage; its just that the car has been static too long.
As I am not a doctor getting hold of a syringe might have its own problems but I am not sure I like the idea of a puncture in the gaiter, however small.
If I just lever the pistons back into the calliper won't that get them moving; or am I being optimistic!
No I always leave the handbrake off when in the garage; its just that the car has been static too long.
As I am not a doctor getting hold of a syringe might have its own problems but I am not sure I like the idea of a puncture in the gaiter, however small.
If I just lever the pistons back into the calliper won't that get them moving; or am I being optimistic!
Problem I had was that pistons wouldn't move, the pistons were stuck and couldn't be pushed back into the calliper with a clamp. The brake fluid acted as a lubricant and I guess spread around between piston and bore by capillary action. My only alternative at the time seemed to be to properly refurbish the calliper, which meant taking it off - bleeding etc - or even replacing it. Problem was resolved twice without that and still going strong.
I appreciate getting a syringe and needle may not be possible for you but as for damaging the gaiter I thought I would have to replace it anyway if it didn't work.
Dave Jones
I appreciate getting a syringe and needle may not be possible for you but as for damaging the gaiter I thought I would have to replace it anyway if it didn't work.
Dave Jones
Fire it up and rock it backwards and forwards on the gears, that should free things up enough to get it moving. Drive a short distance up the road and back again without any hard brake applications; then check each corner in turn for any heat build up, indicating brake binding. Worst case senario, you'll need to remove the road wheels and pads, then work the caliper pistons in and out to free up the movement.
Hope that helps. [
]
Regards,
Clive
Hope that helps. [
]Regards,
Clive
Well I spoke too soon in my last post 17 Feb.
Still could not free up one piston in the calliper. So decide to take off caliper. Clamped hydraulic hose - couldn't undo brake pipe connection to calliper without brake spanner. Buy spanner. Undo connection and wrap in clingfilm to seal.
Try to undo calliper bolts to brake carrier - one shears off leaving stud flush in threaded hole in carrier. Buy 2 new s/s bolts and spring washers.
Send calliper to Classicar Automotive for refurb (fab job, back after 2 weeks like new) after hassle with using DHL (go to WH Smith, staff didn't know they were DHL collection point - do now!)
Drill broken stud to take stud extractor. Refuses to budge. Drill bigger hole for bigger extractor. Refuses to budge. Apply heat. Refuses to budge. Drill increasingly larger holes, to leave 0.5mm sleeve, still can't extract, so drill out completely. Slight damage to thread. Buy metric tap. Thread hole; try new bolt. Doesn't work; back to tap shop (Nuts & Bolts store in Hove, great place, google Namrick Ltd) to confirm what I had by then realised. Original is metric fine thread, tap I ordered was standard metric. Get standard metric bolts.
Restored calliper comes back - find morning to fit, bleed brakes - and all woks as planned!!
Decide to change gearbox oil at same time - Swepco 201 to be used - can I shift the drain plug? Not even using a 750 mm bar. I don't want plug to break in gearbox - so am off to garage soon to get them to sort out.
It would all be so easy if only fixings came apart as intended!
Still could not free up one piston in the calliper. So decide to take off caliper. Clamped hydraulic hose - couldn't undo brake pipe connection to calliper without brake spanner. Buy spanner. Undo connection and wrap in clingfilm to seal.
Try to undo calliper bolts to brake carrier - one shears off leaving stud flush in threaded hole in carrier. Buy 2 new s/s bolts and spring washers.
Send calliper to Classicar Automotive for refurb (fab job, back after 2 weeks like new) after hassle with using DHL (go to WH Smith, staff didn't know they were DHL collection point - do now!)
Drill broken stud to take stud extractor. Refuses to budge. Drill bigger hole for bigger extractor. Refuses to budge. Apply heat. Refuses to budge. Drill increasingly larger holes, to leave 0.5mm sleeve, still can't extract, so drill out completely. Slight damage to thread. Buy metric tap. Thread hole; try new bolt. Doesn't work; back to tap shop (Nuts & Bolts store in Hove, great place, google Namrick Ltd) to confirm what I had by then realised. Original is metric fine thread, tap I ordered was standard metric. Get standard metric bolts.
Restored calliper comes back - find morning to fit, bleed brakes - and all woks as planned!!
Decide to change gearbox oil at same time - Swepco 201 to be used - can I shift the drain plug? Not even using a 750 mm bar. I don't want plug to break in gearbox - so am off to garage soon to get them to sort out.
It would all be so easy if only fixings came apart as intended!
Gary71
New member
The joy of rusty fixings[]
I've also had my calipers done my classiccar, luckily they are local so I dropped them off myself.
They do a brilliant job, and for very little money. £58 per caliper including new pistons, seals, through bolts, shotblasting, plating, pressure testing... Not sure how you do all that for £58!
]I've also had my calipers done my classiccar, luckily they are local so I dropped them off myself.
They do a brilliant job, and for very little money. £58 per caliper including new pistons, seals, through bolts, shotblasting, plating, pressure testing... Not sure how you do all that for £58!
You didn't want to puncture a dust shield with a tiny hole but you've changed the pitch of the thread that holds your caliper to the car without drilling a clean hole and going up a thread size? [:-]
I had the problem of the pistons sticking on my 1973 911S and often had to remove the pads and work the pistons to free them that worked for a while. I have solved the problem by changing to DOT5 Silicone brake fluid from Automec ltd Buckingham. This is difficult to put into the braking system and does need a lot of bleeding to fully purge the Blue silicone fluid throughout the system. A Gunson pressure brake bleeder works fine (remember to block the overflow hole in the brake fluid reservoir !) The Silicone fluid will not accept any water in the system and therefore will not allow any rusting of the pistons and also gives good lubrication. you may need about 1 litre of fluid to fully replace the old fluid with the DOT 5 Silicone Fluid.
SJW BASIRE
New member
I can also recommend Classicar as I did all the callipers on my car 2 years ago due to getting fed up with sticky brakes after laying up over winter.I now have a dehumidifier in the garage to stop the discs rusting aswell.Another cause of sticky brakes is flexy hoses that are due for replacement as they swell inside and restrict the fluid movement so that the brakes bind.
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