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Brakes Change.

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Hi guys, I have bitten the bullet and decided to go for zimmerman cross drilled and ebc greens.

The Next step is fitting them, I have managed to blag a workshop at work with a ramp, and now i just want to make sure i have got the correct method for changing the discs and pads.

I thought i might get away with trying to ease the pistons back into the caliper without undoing bleed screws and clamping, but apartenly this can kill the abs pump. Has anyone got any suggestions or methods they used, or better still any hyperlinks to a workshop manual telling me the best way to complete this task?

Rich.
 
I would suggest you do want to bleed the brakes, having gone to all that trouble stick some new ATE super blue and get maximum benifit. [;)]
 
Cheers for that, The fluid was changed in its last service, 2K ago, so i don't want to change it again.

However I have got someone telling me that if you force the pistons open without clamping you can bugger the abs pump, has anyone had an issue with this, or is this bloke talking rubbish?

Hopefully I can just persuade the pistons open and wip the boys out, but not at the expense of an abs pump!
 
Rich, I have no idea how likely this pump issue would be but all I can say is I have been changing my pads about twice a year for the past 5 years and have never had a problem. I just loosen the lid of the fluid reservoir under the bonnet and then prise the pads apart, by hand if they are nice and loose. The Clarks Garage instructions are really good
 
Cheers for the help guys, I pushed the pistons clear, and watched the resevoir and all was cool.

The brakes are now being run in and feel better than the ones that came off straight away!

The LHF pads were metal to metal with the disc![&:] good job they are sorted now thats for sure!
 
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