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Buyers Guide for Boxter

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I'm thinking about, wondering about vaguely considering the possibility of buying a Boxter, having sold my 964 because I wasn't using it enough... I'm setting myself a limited budget of about £20k absolute max, and of course I want an "S" so I need to be careful what I get. When I bought the 964 someone kindly emailed me a fabulous list of things to ask and check, that had been floating around the 'net for some time, collecting buyers experiences, and it proved invaluable. does such a buyers guide exist for the Boxter?
 
I can highly recommend Peter Morgan's "Ultimate Buyers Guide" for the Boxster (and the associated DVD).

Both available from Club Shop, at Ragley this Sunday, and at Amazon.co.uk
 
Hi Jem,

Do not ignore the 2.7, a much better car than people think. Management has a 220 bhp MY 2000, I could swear it has more power. Fitted a K & N fllter and sounds much better. Sold also my 964 few years back, replaced it with a Carrera 3.2 MY 1989 with no spoilers, brilliant to drive and worth every penny.

As far as saving for the Cayman S, why not look also at the new Audi S5 with 354 bhp, an alternative to the Cayman S according to a very reputable magazine.

Take care, Salvador
 
ORIGINAL: salva
[FONT=verdana,geneva"]As far as saving for the Cayman S, why not look also at the new Audi S5 with 354 bhp, an alternative to the Cayman S according to a very reputable magazine.[FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]

because that would mean talking to Audi Sales people [:mad:] .. LOL
 
Indeed, bought it at Ragley, and now feel I know what I'm looking for... I think I may wait until the winter weather supresses demand a bit and I may get a 2003 glass window one in my budget...
 
Hi I think it is a very interesting question, which seems to have been ignored - are there any check lists that we could use or develop for a "Boxster buyer"?

I have read a number of magazines and it looks like there are always similar issues arising - oil leaks, clutch etc.... I will try to develop a first draft and post it in due course! It would be interesting to see what people think in the literature and how these things have been experienced by real Boxster owners [&:]
 
Alex,​
Here are some pointers we have from the 996 Buyer's guide, they are pretty much the same for the 986. Hope it helps​
The Porsche 111 Point check is reasonably priced (c£170), and (once passed) will enable you to​
obtain a warranty on cars up to the 9​
th anniversary of its registration or 125000 miles (£895 with £0
excess). A more comprehensive and far more detailed check by an inspection specialist such as Peter​
Morgan, for example, may be a better option if you are less concerned about the Porsche warranty ""​
or you could always have both!! Many independent Porsche specialists also perform PPIs, and can​
carry out additional tests such as cylinder leakage tests and diagnostic checks.​
This checklist is intended to outline the additional checks you would make on a car apart from the​
usual ones normally expected "" V5C, MOT, HPI check, paint condition, interior condition, panel gaps,​
marks, scuffs, oil leaks etc.​
Exterior​
Often repainted as they are very susceptible to stone chips, but​
look for dents or splits which are more difficult to repair. A respray​
typically costs around £250​
Front PU (Bumper)​
Look in the air ducts at the front, and check the radiators. Look​
for an accumulation of debris in the corners, which can soak up​
water and rot the radiators.​
Unclip the front carpet trim (2 black plastic stud nuts and 2 trim​
studs) and peel back the carpet. Look for panel damage or​
replacement panels that might indicate a front end impact. Note​
that the sealant used at the factory on panel joints is a light​
caramel colour.​
Luggage Compartment​
The C2 comes with an inflated space-saver spare wheel, stored​
vertically in the front compartment. On C4 versions it is deflated -​
under the floor carpet, and should come with a compressor to​
inflate it. There should also be a jack and basic toolkit. Make sure​
the toolkit contains a towing eye and the locking wheel nut key.​
Door Latches The door latches on the "˜B' pillar can move slightly, causing the​
paint to crack and corrosion can set in. A black plastic spacer was​
introduced to solve this problem in 2000. Note that Porsche will​
not rectify any rust in this area under the 10-year anti-corrosion​
warranty.​
Rear PU​
Again, these are often repainted due to chipping and minor​
scratches "" check for splits and cracks that could indicate more​
serious damage.​
Cabriolet Top​
On Pre-facelift cars the rear plastic screen is prone to cracking​
across the middle unless the "˜Boxster chop' is performed (while​
the top is half-way though it's drop, run your hand horizontally​
across the rear window to ensure an even fold). A replacement​
plastic window will cost approximately £250 and a replacement​
hood around £750 fitted (non-Porsche)​
Rear Spoiler The rear wing should automatically deploy at 75mph and retract​
again at 37mph to aid cooling, and down-force. It can also be​
activated by means of a switch on the fuse box cover in the​
driver's footwell. Make sure the spoiler works correctly. The rear​
wall is prone to splitting at the folds, but a new wall can be fitted​
for around £80. If the car has a fixed rear spoiler (eg GT3 bodykit,​
Porsche Aerokit etc) the rear spoiler raising mechanism is​
disabled.​
Interior​
Climate Control Make sure to check that the air-con blasts freezing cold air at its​
lowest setting. Air conditioning problems can be expensive to​
rectify. Common faults are corroded radiator matrices (see above​
"" c£500) or the filter/dryer canister (c£150).​
Doors & Windows​
The doors should open and close smoothly, and the windows​
should drop a few millimetres as you lift the door handles. If the​
windows do not drop as you open the doors, the culprit is likely to​
be a micro-switch in the door switch assembly that may need​
replacement (c£125).​
Windscreen​
The windscreen of all 996s are prone to delamination (milky white​
effect) in the corner of the "˜A' pillars and bonnet. This can often​
be replaced courtesy of your insurance company, subject to​
paying the excess (c£50).​
Ignition Switch​
It is not uncommon for the ignition switch to fail. The plastic​
barrel can crack, preventing the switch from returning to its 1​
st
position once the engine has started. Also the contacts in the​
switch can break, causing strange electrical faults. (c£22 part​
cost).​
Centre Console Storage Bin​
The hinge on the console is prone to breaking, but there is an​
easy and cheap solution which costs around £18 in parts.​
Engine and​
Luggage compartment opening levers​
On pre-facelift cars the larger mechanical levers on the driver's​
side sill are prone to scuffing. The replacement parts cost around​
£150​
The electrical systems of the 996 are generally very reliable, but​
check all switches and controls perform their correct function.​
Engine​
Oil Filler Cap & Tube​
Don't be alarmed by a light coating of mayonnaise coloured​
residue in the cap or tube. It is quite common, and usually worse​
in cold weather, and if the car has been used on short runs.​
Coolant & Oil Look for traces of oily residue in the cooling water. This could be​
a sign of a leaking head gasket, or much worse. Walk away from​
the car and don't look back!​
Also look at the oil on the dipstick. Any traces of white foamy​
substance (water/oil emulsion) and you should also start walking!​
Coolant Expansion Tank​
These are prone to cracking and pinholes. Look for staining of the​
engine bay panels below the tank. Not too expensive to replace​
at around £250.​
Idle Should be a steady 680-700 rpm when warm. Some 996's suffer​
from a slightly lumpy idle, particularly when cold. A severely​
erratic idle could be caused by a fault in a Variocam solenoid​
(c£400), MAF sensor (c£150) or Ignition Coil Pack (c£30 each)​
Rear Main Oil Seal​
It is no secret that this is a common problem with the M96 engine.​
It first shows itself by a dampening of the area at the bottom of​
the engine at the joint between the crankcase and transmission.​
In virtually ALL cases the worst that will happen will be the odd​
drip of oil on the garage floor. Most owners will wait until the​
clutch needs changing and replace the seal at that time. Multiple​
failures have been recorded, but they are rare. Tiptronics appear​
to be less prone, but not immune, to the problem. Cost when​
doing a clutch change is an extra £20 or so, otherwise it is a​
£300-400 job.​
Startup​
Don't be alarmed if there is a rattle at engine startup from cold.​
This often happens before pressure has built up in the hydraulic​
valve lifters. It should disappear within 5 seconds or so.​
Occasionally, you may see a puff of oil smoke from the exhaust at​
startup. This is common, but should disappear after about 10​
seconds, and should only happen infrequently, ie. Once in every​
30-40 starts perhaps.​
Transmissions​
Manual Check for smooth operation and changes. Note that when cold​
the change from first to second gear can be slightly stiff, but this​
should disappear when warmed up. Listen for noises when​
accelerating and on a trailing throttle. All parts are now available​
for manual transmissions, so they can be repaired rather than​
replaced (as was the case until December 2006).​
Tiptronic​
Check for smooth changes (up and down) when in automatic and​
tiptronic mode. Check both tip switches on the steering wheel are​
working, and also check the tiptronic display in the instrument​
cluster operates correctly. At present, internal transmission parts​
are not available from Porsche, but some independent specialists​
can source them and repair rather than replace the transmission.​
Tiptronic transmission has proved to be very reliable.​
Running Gear​
Suspension A clonking sound when driving slowly over bumps may be heard.​
This usually means a worn anti-roll-bar drop-link (c£30 each).​
Creaking sounds often indicate a worn lower suspension control​
arm (c£150 each).​
Brakes​
The brake disks are prone to corrosion, particularly the inside​
faces of the rear discs. It is surprising how bad they can get​
without being able to feel anything unusual through the brake​
pedal. (c£120/pair plus fitting)​
Tyres​
Tyres should be worn evenly across the tread. Tyres should be of​
matching brand across axle (preferably all four corners) and​
should all be of equal "˜N' rating. Uneven wear suggests geometry​
problems (c£150-250 for a 4-wheel alignment). Tyres "" 17inch​
F/R cost from £110/£130, and the optional 18inch F/R cost from​
£120/£180.​
Documentation​
VIN Number The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) is located in three places:​
behind the base of the windscreen on the passenger side, on the​
driver side door-catch panel and on the front bulkhead in the​
luggage compartment to the left of the battery. Check out the VIN​
Decoder on the FAQ pages.​
VIL Number The VIL (Vehicle Identification Label) can be found in 2 places: A​
white sticker under the bonnet and a white sticker found in the​
"˜Guarantee and Maintenance' booklet. The country code will​
signify for which market the car was made, and C16 signifies the​
UK. A missing VIL under the bonnet could suggest the car was​
involved in an accident requiring the bonnet to be replaced. A​
missing VIL from the "˜Guarantee and Maintenance' booklet could​
suggest a duplicate booklet and/or a personal import. Check out​
the Option and Paint Code lists on the FAQ pages.​
Service History​
A full service history is very important when considering a 996.​
Expect the car to be serviced at an OPC for the first 2-3 years (the​
warranty runs for 2 years), thereafter any well known independent​
will do. The 996 needs to be serviced every year or 12,000 miles,​
and has to be serviced at an OPC or an approved centre so as to​
not invalidate the warranty if you buy one. Check the stamps in​
the service book.​
 

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