A bit obvious, but check that the front and rear vin plates match.
Check the shut lines, they should all be even, though not particularly narrow.
Check the condition of the pedal rubbers, and the rest of the interior; does it's condition, in your opininon, mach the indicated milage.
Any 924 S is going to be as least 15 years old, check the service history and look at all the old mots to verify the accuracy of the milage.
Check the offside front inner wing by the screen wash bottle, for some reason, 924s have a habit of going rusty there, and carefully check the front mountings for the driver's seat runners under the carpet. Fatigue fractures here eventually lead to the captive nuts pulling through.
What is the condition of the fluid in the clutch reservoir? Check for leaking fluid underneath the bell-housing, and where the push-rod goes through the rubber cap on the bulkhead behind the pedal. The starter is at the bottom of the bell housing, and if the slave cylinder leaks it can fill the starter with fluid, I know because my 924 turbo which also has the starter at the bottom did just that. Otherwise a leaking master cylinder will let paint-stripping fluid run down the bulkhead. That said, it is a fairly straightforward job to repair.
Check for excessive play in the steering column bush by lifting the steering wheel up and down.
Check for early signs of corrosion or bubbling of paint around the rear hatch pins.
Check the connector or the right hand strut. is it secure on the earth lead.
Drive the car and feel for a draught of air on your right elbow coming form the door handle. If there is a draught then there is a leak in the door membrane, and while you are there check the bottom of the door cards. If they look swollen or are too flimsy they are most likely damp
The door cards are not designed to be water cooled!
Other than that it is all general car buying checks, unless anyone else wants to add thier two penn'orth.
