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Buying help please on 3.2 carrera

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Hi,

I already own a 944S but have the opportunity to purchase a 3.2 carrera on an 86 plate (c) with fsh and 125,000 mls is there anything i need to check other than the usual ?

I understand that it will not have power steering and what price would you expect to pay ?

Any help would be great

Thanks

Pete
 
Hi Pete

First thing to note is that there is a changeover point in '87 where the sturdier and more robust G50 gearbox was introduced to take over from the 915 - so you'd be buying one of the last 915s. I've not driven one but I know that they are excellent if operating properly but do fail especially in 3.2s and would then require an expensive rebuild. Someone else on here will know what to look for.

Other than that, a good 3.2 should be fairly trouble free. Top end rebuilds and clutches come round every now and again so check if that's been done recently as it will save money in the near future. Always buy on condition and make sure that the history is full and genuine.

There are a few buying guides around - I have successfully bought privately twice with the excellent advice from Adrian Crawford's guide which can be found at http://www.performance2and4.co.uk/.

Good luck!
 
hi,

thanks for the advice it has a fsh and the gearbox has been re-conditioned not sure about a top end rebuild but surely thats not set in stone if the car is running ok then best left?
 
Sounds alright, but that is rather high mileage without a top end rebuild....as it is a car you dont know, I would call the garage that takes care of the servicing and ask if they can give you the lowdown on its condition.

When asked I always recommend an pre purchase inspection by a specialist, if you mentioned to them that the engine is still original at 125K they may pay particular attention to this area. Cost for an inspection between £100-150, cost for a straight forward top end rebuild £2000...I know what I would do...

Good luck and let us know how you got on.
 
Hello Pete

I recently bought a F reg 1989 (97k miles), and got a comprehensive carried out by an offical porsche centre before buying, I believe they all offer the same service countrywide. It covered over 100 points and cost about £170.

The major thing it showed up was the oil cooling system and oil pipes needed replacing, about £1500 worth of parts plus labour, so I'd recommend getting a check done,could save you a fortune.

Best a luck
 
Hi Pete,

Alan and rooksy have it covered. But don't be put off by high mileage. The most important thing to check is the service history book. Make sure it is complete and fully documented. Ideally it should have ALL receipts. Take a look in the June issue of 911 & Porsche World for 'guide' on price. Certainly have an inspection and don't be concerned about walking away from it if things ain't right. There is always another one round the corner!

Dave [sm=spanner2.gif]
 

ORIGINAL: rooksy

Hello Pete

I recently bought a F reg 1989 (97k miles), and got a comprehensive carried out by an offical porsche centre before buying, I believe they all offer the same service countrywide. It covered over 100 points and cost about £170.

The major thing it showed up was the oil cooling system and oil pipes needed replacing, about £1500 worth of parts plus labour, so I'd recommend getting a check done,could save you a fortune.

Best a luck

Curious. Why did the oil cooler/s and oil pipes need replacing on a 97k car? I wasn't aware any of these components could "wear out". Were they damaged?
 

ORIGINAL: Richard Bernau


ORIGINAL: rooksy

Hello Pete

I recently bought a F reg 1989 (97k miles), and got a comprehensive carried out by an offical porsche centre before buying, I believe they all offer the same service countrywide. It covered over 100 points and cost about £170.

The major thing it showed up was the oil cooling system and oil pipes needed replacing, about £1500 worth of parts plus labour, so I'd recommend getting a check done,could save you a fortune.

Best a luck

Curious. Why did the oil cooler/s and oil pipes need replacing on a 97k car? I wasn't aware any of these components could "wear out". Were they damaged?

Actually, my pipes needed doing when I bought my current 3.2 and that was at 82k. Just excessive corrosion.
 
Ditto all of the above, an inspection is key, but mileage shouldn't be, it's condition, history and previous maintenance that are inportant.

There is no set mileage range for when top end overhauls, there have been known on cars as little as 60K and as large as 175K plus.

Hope you find what you are looking for these are great motors..enjoy

 
My 87 3.2 has 125k on the clock and still going strong.
Do check with the oil filler cap and take it off. If it stalls or theres a noticeable decrease in engine rpm, the rings are on the way out.

M
[8|]
 
Greetings
Got a '85 with 126k+ on the clock. No engine rebuild, and no gearbox rebuild done and I don't have any evidence of a clutch replacement (but I'm sure it must have had). The car starts on the button and has not let me down yet ( it wouldn't dare!)[:)] Any way it is my daily driver and still goes like the clappers, JZ up in K.L. did an engine leak test and a couple of the cylinders are below spec but untill the day a "Milkfloat" overtakes me I'll wait for that rebuild.
I've heard of one car needing a rebuild at 25k!!!!! That has to be a "school run" problem. I've also spoke to a bloke who had 400k on his old girl with only one clutch and a tickle on the engine....... but he did only motorway miles!
Any way some info for whats it's worth.
Good luck
Alex
 
Main thing I'd be checking is the overall condition and looking for rust. If you get a rust free car with a good body your half way there as thats the bit that really costs alot to put right.

The mechanical side is important but most of that can be sorted at reasonable cost. As others have said check all the oil pipes from the engine and inside the front drivers wheel arch as these often need replacing and should be a good indication of how well it's been looked after.

Also pull up the carpets inside the car and in the bonnet and check for damp.
 
I`d go with Greg on that one !
Your much better having a good look for rust!!
Because the 911`s dont have any wheel arch linings there`s loads of places for mud to lay which can cause corrosion . Have a good look in the wheel arches and get your hand up there if you can!
The oil pipes do corrode i have just change my rear ones ( engine to regulator and oil tank to regulator) for £37 each (parts only) so thats not to much of a problem.
Good luck!
 

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