buying my first 944
- Thread starter swainey
- Start date
Welcome! Have you been to look at the car yet? If not then read some buyers guides quickly because there are some tips (like look in the door shut vents) that I wished I knew before my 944 purchase... Tatty seats are replaceable... but be wary of bodywork which is expensive to put right properly. Do you plan on doing your own spannering?
944 man
Active member
Seats are far more of a problem than they were 10-15 years ago. At that time most series two cars being dismantled had good seats and trim was regularly bought to spruce up tattier cars. Now most cars have ragged interiors and good trim is hard to find for anything like sensible money.
andy watson
Moderator
Hi Swainey and welcome to the forum, Lots of knowledge here, don't be afraid to ask the guys they are great and will help where they can. Good luck with your search, and keep us posted.
J.C944TurboMan
New member
Looks like a nice Toy for the money mate ! I say as long as you have a good solid foundation to build on ? Everything else can be perfected in time ? Give you something to do . You can buy seat full covers or have them repaired . I would check to make sure the sills and underneath is good and solid . Have fun and don't go OCD trying to make it like the day it left the factory 
swainey
New member
thanks for the advice guys i have agreed a price with the seller and paid a small deposit, going to see the car on sunday i tryed to the AA to do a vehicle inspection but they wont do it because its a high performance vehicle[] WTF! its booked in for an mot on Monday so hopefully all will go well anybody live near Burton on Trent maybe ...want to come and have a look with me .....theres a pint with your name it
] WTF! its booked in for an mot on Monday so hopefully all will go well anybody live near Burton on Trent maybe ...want to come and have a look with me .....theres a pint with your name it
To be honest I don't think AA man would have been much help. You need to know what to look for on these cars... Having good bodywork is the most important thing, or at least original bodywork that needs some attention. Have a good poke around the rear boot wells (the battery is on one side). Take the plastic cover out of the door shut and get a camera phone/torch in there. Check all the way along the bottom of the sills where the drain holes are. If the pressed diamond is missing over the jacking point, it's a sure sign they've been patched/messed with. Check the oil pressure (over 4 on cold idle). If it pings straight up to 5 with the ignition on, avoid, it's been disconnected. A clutch kit is £500... has it been changed recently?
ChasR
New member
Whereabouts are you based? Depending on the time I am happy to ride shotgun as a second pair of eyes if you are en route. As for issues? There are plenty but in a nutshell: -Check for rust especially at the rear of the of the sills (and IMO behind the sill). Ensure that you are not near missing metal (I have seen cars get an MOT with the metal missing from the inside of the rear sill). If this is the case, walk away -Rust at the bottom of the front wings -Take the vent out of the B Pillars and inspect inside the sills. (quite easily done) -A small amount of ticking from the engine is fine but ensure it is nothing more. -If the car is warm and the clutch is juddering on driving away it could be an iffy clutch plate breaking up. Not a cheap repair -Ask when the timing/balance belts was done. 5 years or 48k (whichever comes first) is said to be the time to change them. -Look out for play in the in lower arm balljonts or bushes. If keeping the car stock the bushes are fairly cheap the replace, the balljoints are quite pricey since they are part of the arm. -Oh and check the clock [8D] (this is not a biggie truth be told, but some chaps can get funny about them not working ). There is probably a few things I have missed off, but that should cover a few bases .
. As for issues? There are plenty but in a nutshell: -Check for rust especially at the rear of the of the sills (and IMO behind the sill). Ensure that you are not near missing metal (I have seen cars get an MOT with the metal missing from the inside of the rear sill). If this is the case, walk away -Rust at the bottom of the front wings -Take the vent out of the B Pillars and inspect inside the sills. (quite easily done) -A small amount of ticking from the engine is fine but ensure it is nothing more. -If the car is warm and the clutch is juddering on driving away it could be an iffy clutch plate breaking up. Not a cheap repair -Ask when the timing/balance belts was done. 5 years or 48k (whichever comes first) is said to be the time to change them. -Look out for play in the in lower arm balljonts or bushes. If keeping the car stock the bushes are fairly cheap the replace, the balljoints are quite pricey since they are part of the arm. -Oh and check the clock [8D] (this is not a biggie truth be told, but some chaps can get funny about them not working ). There is probably a few things I have missed off, but that should cover a few bases .Ex Skyline
New member
I notice it's been sold mate? Never mind, if it ain't a Turbo it ain't worth buying []!
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