Caliper bolts

[Big Les]

So - I tried to get the rear calipers of of my S2 and three of the bolts are locked solid. In attempting to get them started (it seems as though they have Loctite on them and once that is broken they come undone) I've knackered the hexagonal insert for the Allen key. What now? Any suggestions gratefully received!

 

[John Sims]

Four options:-

Cut a slot across the top of the bolt and use a large flat bladed screw driver.

Hammer a bigger allen key into the hole

Drill the bolt and use a stud extractor

Drill the bolt out and re thread the hole

You might want to heat the bolts up first as the differential of expansion can help to break the joint.

 

[mik_ok]

I'd add a fifth option to John's (which isn't to say it's any better bet) ~

Hammer a suitably sized "torx" driver into the slot and use an impact driver to get the stubborn bolt out.

(One of THESE as opposed to the impact ratchets that also appear to be described as impact drivers everywhere now [&:] The fact it's a picture of a boxster disc is purely coincidental ~ first image google came up with. []

 

[944Turbo]

Apply some heat (being carefull to avoid flamable materials in the area), and then freeze spray (maplins) a coupl of times then try and get the mounting hot and the bolt cold before using one of the above methods (hammering the next size up allen key would be my favourite - a quick going over with a file 1st might help)
Tony
(Oh and for anyone else - clean the hole in the top of the bolt first)

 

[Fen]

And once it's out you haven't lost anything because you should always replace the caliper bolts.

 

[Big Les]

Looks like it's the heat treatment then.

Why do the caliper bolts need replacing? I suppose it's best to get the kit from an OPC with the bolts and plates?

Thanks for all the tips.

 

[Fen]

Porsche say they are one-use apparently. I guess that means they stretch when torqued up and would be stressed beyond tolerance/lose too much elasticity if they are re-used. It's the same for driveshaft bolts and I know of several people who have had them come loose after reusing. Better safe than sorry with calipers then I think.

 

[Big Les]

As usual - you start one job and find something else needs doing! Working on the rear brakes I've now discovered one of the driveshaft rubber boots is splt, the one nearest the gearbox on the drivers side shaft. How easy is it to remove the driveshaft to replace the boot? Do I need to remove the wheel hub unit or can the shaft be dropped some other way?

And soon you will get questions about the steering shaft as I have that on my list to do - I believe the steering rack need to be dropped to remove the intermediate shaft?

I'm convinced I will have the car on the road this summer!!!!

Thanks

Les

 

[944psi]

I know how you feel. I have a bit of a project on the go at the moment. Replacing the gearbox then the fuel lines, shocks, brake lines and I have a split CV boot too!

You can remove the driveshaft without too much fuss. 6 bolts on each end of the driveshaft. You'll need an 8mm cheesehead socket/bit with a decent length shafy for the cv bolts. It is worth cleaning the heads of the bolts out before you start though. I found it useful to raise the rear of the car onto stands and remove the wheel on the side you want to work on, then access the bolts on the transaxle from the side of the car (through the rear wheel arch) with a 15" extension bar - beats laying on the floor to do it.

I'm about to dismantle my driveshafts to examine and clean them before repacking with grease - very messy job!

As Fen said, replace the CV bolts at the same time. I've also seen some instructions that you should check and retighten the bolts after driving the car.

IIRC the UJ on the steering shaft should come off without dropping the rack - can someone verify this though?

Phil

 

[Fen]

I thought that, too - I know I fitted mine with the rack in-situ and the engine out and that was fine, but then it had to come off again to help access for fitting the engine and I have a feeling the rack had to be loosened to get it back on after that, but I didn't do it that time so why I would even know that is beyond me.

 

[944turboS]

but I didn't do it that time so why I would even know that is beyond me

Perhaps you have developed Woman's intuition when you got that hairdressers car

 

[Fen]

Oi!

 

[944Turbo]

on the caliper mounting bolts, I had a feeling they reccomended bolt replacement as the bolts had a loctite type substance on the thread (though could be confusing them with other bolts). However I re-use the old ones torqued to the factory figures and no probs yet with them working loose or failing.
Tony

 

[Big Les]

Bolts all out now and calipers off. Got a local tyre fitter to apply some heat and they started them off for me (retightening them before the ride home!). Once home they came off OK. Now it's time to get the dreaded caliper plate lift sorted out - but that's another story!

Thanks for all the tips.