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Caliper plate screws

sulzeruk

Active member
Anybody know of a supplier for these as I need about 30! Porsche don't sell them separately. They are the small Torx or Allen head bolts that hold the stainless steel spring plate into the calipers, the ones that are loctited in usually and are a pain to get out in 1 piece!
Alasdair

 
Standard M6 bolts. About 1cm long - makes them M6x10.

Buy stainless steel, with the normal hex head - not inset. Yes, they will fit, even with new pads in place (although you will need to file one of the corners off a tiny amount), and they will be MUCH easier to get out when it next comes to refurbishing the calipers.


Oli.
 
Google BSR Aerotek or Namrick

There's nothing wrong with cap heads if you ensure you coppergrease the threads and between the plate and caliper and once a year as part of routine maintenance remove and re coppergrease
 
Just bought a pack of 50 from screwfix, I think they were M6 x 16 button head but would need to check the length.

Use Wurth brake paste under the plates rather than copper slip.

I dont think I would be copper slipping the threads when Porsche loctite them.

Rich
 
ORIGINAL: rcsalmons

I dont think I would be copper slipping the threads when Porsche loctite them.

Rich

Well, it's Brembo who put thread lock on the screws and that's usually why the caliper bolts are a royal PITA to get out. Unfortunately, along with the stainless plates, it's just a bad design.

After my local garage were unable to remove the bolts, I sent my rear calipers to Classicar, who probably know as much about refurbing the calipers as any other specialist. They don't use threadlock on the bolts, they just use a decent high temp grease and use a high temp silicone sealant behind the steel plates, as most greases just disintegrate after a short while.
 
If you buy the bolts from Porsche they have loctite on them or if you buy them from Mode Performance (the UK importer for Brembo) they have loctite on them. You cant do those button heads up very tight!

Isn't silicon sealant a good heat insulator?

Rich
 
You have to buy the screws with the plates, right? As far as I know the whole of the caliper is made up from parts only available ultimately from Brembo. If you buy any seals, plates, pistons etc from Porsche, they still come from Brembo.

The silicone will probably retain a bit more heat than grease or paste, granted. But as it actually creates a far less penetrable barrier between the plate and the body of the caliper, it should prevent bi-metallic corrosion from happening far, far better than using grease, which in reality, is only acting like a sacrificial anode.
 
I think Promax will sell the button heads individually.

Caliper plates etc only available from Porsche - cant buy them form Brembo, they make them under licence. I have got lucky with a few seals and various other bits where Mode have had old stock or an equivalent.

Rich
 
I don't think grease or coppaslip acts as a sacrificial anode. Last time I checked with a multimeter in continuity test mode neither grease nor coppaslip conducts electricity. But as has been said before, the problem with all greases is that they will ultimately work their way out between the aluminium caliper body and the stainless steel screw and plate and as aluminium is anodic to stainless steel it will corrode and expand pushing the plates out and making the screws difficult to remove. It is impossible to stop it - though I like the idea of using silicone sealant between the caliper body and plate - it will insulate the plate from the caliper body and prevent galvanic corrosion. Silicone sealant is used extensively on compressor blade roots in gas turbine engines primarily to dampen out any vibration, but, just like in your bathroom, that stuff is still impossible to remove after 5 years on wing and tens of thousands of hours of use at 600 degs C +. I'm sure it will be man enough for the job in this use.

I think that loctite should be used on the screw. Aluminium and steel have different thermal expansion rates so the loctite is needed to stop the screw from working loose - which it will do for sure if no loctite is used. It wasn't applied from new in a cynical attempt to frustrate DIY mechanics 20yrs down the line.
 
I got mine from my local bolt + fixing supplier.
Stainless versions + no loctite. They were also longer than the ones that came out. Youl find the threads go deep into the caliper...
Ive been doing this for a good 5 years + no probs as of yet...
 
I purchased individual bolts from Specialist Cars of Malton and I'm sure they are available from other parts specialists (as well as generic hardware outlets).
 
I got 30 (as I need 16 for 4 normal calipers and 8 for some M030 calipers) from my local engineering supply shop for £1! Bargain of the week. Big Redd supply sela kits for the calipers. There is a stockist on Ebay who sells comprehensive overhaul kits for about £60 per caliper. Includes new everyhting but the body!
Alasdair

 

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