Menu toggle

Caliper Repair Kit???

stev580

New member
The time has come to do something about my rear caliper problem. This has probably been mentioned a thousand times before on the forum but here goes. For a while now my s2 has been suffering from a sticky rear caliper and has gradually got worse. Now got to the stage i need to do something about it. So i have 2 options

Buy a used set for £160 from a breakers yard

Buy a repair kit http://www.porscheshop.co.uk/acatalog/porsche_944_brake_components.html


Has anyone used this kit before? Is it easy to use?

cheers
 
No idea about answering your question but am interested in responses. All of my calipers have plate lift that will need sorting at the next pad renewal. Porsche shop is a bit scant with the detail on what their repair includes....
 
This question was asked on Titanic within the last week.

Have a look at the Titanic archives - you'll find the answer there.


Oli.
 
You might get the parts cheaper from Berlyn Services: https://partsforporsche.co.uk/
I got my ATE caliper refurb kits there, but those were for the Lux model, not S2.
 
Its most likely the callipers are sticking due to the plate lift, so all you'll need in terms of materials is new dome headed allen bolts (stainless steel, 12mm long thread, M6) and some etch primer and black paint (hammerite would do), brake fluid for bleeding. And the know how to strip the callipers.

If you're unlucky and the pistons are corroded, then you can get new pistons from Porsche dealership for about £15 each (includes seals and brake grease).
 
See recent posts somewhere on the forum;look at Porsche Post,I think July edition where excellent article about front callipers on 944/968.Biggest problem is removal of the existing plate fixing screws.I am now on the 964 front brakes and use countersunk M10 nuts welded on top of the domehead screws.Retract all the pistons,completely mask off the piston/seal area with 2 layers of masking tape first.
On the rears,I found that I could turn round the plates so that the largely unmarked part was at the outside edge of the aperture.The rest is wire brush/fine file work,etch prime,satin gloss spray can(several coats) and sensible use of copper ease grease.
None of my brake pipes would unscrew without twisting the pipes so I cut them off near the nipples,you can then slip a ring spanner(M11) over easily to crack the union,and had new pipes made up at a local car factors.
On re-assembly I thinly coated the brake pipes at each upto the swaged cone before sliding the nuts up and screwing them into the callipers /hose union[8|]
 
ORIGINAL: VITESSE

None of my brake pipes would unscrew without twisting the pipes so I cut them off near the nipples,you can then slip a ring spanner(M11) over easily to crack the union,and had new pipes made up at a local car factors.
On re-assembly I thinly coated the brake pipes at each up to the swaged cone before sliding the nuts up and screwing them into the callipers /hose union[8|]

Even when using Cunifer rust proof piping I always put pure silicone grease on both the male and female union threads and as Vitesse says, on the pipe itself before sliding the union up to the flared end. The beauty of silicone grease is that it is completely inert (and therefore does not matter if the odd bit is allowed into the brake system) and it is completely water proof. Whereas if you use Copper grease you have to be careful not to introduce any into the brake system because it is oil-based.
It is also perfect for keeping door key barrels from freezing up. I put some into a basic hypodermic that came from the local vet. Designed to feed a sick cat with water so has no needle, just a plastic spout.
When I had used up a tube that came courtesy of the British Nuclear Power industry [;)] I was able to buy a small tube on eBay as divers use it on scuba gear threads.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Silicone-Grease-for-switch-contacts-ignition-System_W0QQitemZ330099909445QQihZ014QQcategoryZ30917QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQtrksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem
 

Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members

Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions

Disclaimer

The opinions expressed on this site are not necessarily those of the Club, who shall have no liability in respect of them or the accuracy of the content. The Club assumes no responsibility for any effects arising from errors or omissions.

Porsche Club Great Britain gives no warranties, guarantees or assurances and makes no representations or recommendations regarding any goods or services advertised on this site. It is the responsibility of visitors to satisfy themselves that goods and/or services supplied by any advertiser are bona fide and in no instance can the Porsche Club Great Britain be held responsible.

When responding to advertisements please ensure that you satisfy yourself of any applicable call charges on numbers not prefixed by usual "landline" STD Codes. Information can be obtained from the operator or the white pages. Before giving out ANY information regarding cars, or any other items for sale, please satisfy yourself that any potential purchaser is bona fide.

Directors of the Board of Porsche Club GB, Club Office Staff, Register Secretaries and Regional Organisers are often requested by Club members to provide information on matters connected with their cars and other matters referred to in the Club Rules. Such information, advice and assistance provided by such persons is given in good faith and is based on the personal experience and knowledge of the individual concerned.

Neither Porsche Club GB, nor any of the aforementioned, shall be under any liability in respect of any such information, advice or assistance given to members. Members are advised to consult qualified specialists for information, advice and assistance on matters connected with their cars at all times.

Back
Top