At the moment I have around 0.5 deg negative on the rear and 1.0 deg negative on the front, almost in spec for factory settings and if you believe some of the posts on rennlist more negative camber will result in rapid tyre wear, I know correct toe settings have an effect so I'm inclined to try 1.5 neg on the rear and 2.0 neg on the front, KW's and 18" wheels are also a factor, would I be scrubbing the inner edge of the tyres with this setup ?.
Camber ?.
- Thread starter pauly
- Start date
Hilux
New member
They will be.
If you have the same rolling radius with 18" wheels you are more than likely to have rubber band tyres with much reduced sidewall compliance. This means that when you increase camber at the rear they will run on the inside edge which is ok if you are cornering a lot as the tyre sits flatter in the bends but for normal driving it will slaughter the inside tread.
I run -1.5 degree rear and -.75 degree front, on the road I wear the inside of the fronts (slightly) and on track the outsides (loads), the rears seem to wear pretty evenly. zero toe and as much castor as I could get, though I am thinking of reducing this next time for road use.
Tony
Tony
lali
New member
And you doubt this why??
the more -ve you run the weight is transfered through a smaller amount of the tyre in contact with the ground. So yes you can and will wear the inside edge of your tyres quicker.
18"s with what sort of tyre and profile...?
a stickier tyre will wear out quicker.
The correct tow settings from the book probably wont work with the 18's either... Im guessing here so if someone knows for sure please jump in... but in my head it doesnt work. The setting up of geo is so effected by every little change that you make, that using settings fro a 16" wheel just can not work for anything else. ( in my head anyway)
appletonn
New member
I had -1.5 rear and -1.8 front on my old 944t on 18" rims and in 5000 miles and 3 trackdays, suffered very little uneven wear. On track the front outside shoulders took a bit of a hard time, but nothing that left the tyres in poor shape.
The key is to get the toe readjusted after the camber and castor changes have been done. Most of the uneven tyre wear attributed to neg camber set ups is actually caused by the toe having been thrown out by the camber adjustments.
In my experience, the wrong toe settings will shred your tyres far quicker than a degree of negative camber with correct toe settings.
My car went to Le Mans 24h and back with those settings and after those 1000 miles or so at speed, I could detect no feathering or uneven wear in any way.
The key is to get the toe readjusted after the camber and castor changes have been done. Most of the uneven tyre wear attributed to neg camber set ups is actually caused by the toe having been thrown out by the camber adjustments.
In my experience, the wrong toe settings will shred your tyres far quicker than a degree of negative camber with correct toe settings.
My car went to Le Mans 24h and back with those settings and after those 1000 miles or so at speed, I could detect no feathering or uneven wear in any way.
edh
New member
I think that if you're going fast enough to exploit the difference between -1 and -2 deg on a B-road, then you're probably going too fast for safety - the car should be hugely capable even with your original settings. Slight tweaks of tyre pressure F/R also have a significant impact. I think I'm running -1.5 F -1 R, toe approx 0. The tyres wear evenly on road and track (getting the pressures right makes a big difference on the track IMHO). In general I think the 944 is incredibly light on tyres - Even 12 pretty scrappy laps of the 'ring (my average driving + broken suspension) didn't leave much of an impression on the tyres. I'm always suprised how little wear I get on trackdays compared with other cars I have run.
edh
New member
ORIGINAL: pauly
Not sure I agree that potentially improving the cornering behaviour of the car leads to driving it unsafely, I could do that whatever the setup [], you have 0.5 negative more than I'm using at present I wonder if that would make much difference to the feel of my car ?, my car is booked for geo setup next week I'm just asking opinion here how far from standard, if at all, I should have it set up.
Not trying to be awkward - it's just the difference is going to be pretty small, & I would suggest undetectable at most road speeds. My car has had various geo setups over the last 4 years & I can't honestly say they have changed the road behaviour much. When the geo is a long way off, that's a different matter - I picked up a 924S a few years ago with massive toe-out & that was very skittish! I find the thing that really influences turn-in on track is making sure you keep enough weight in the nose to let the tyres grip - mybe it would be a bit better with more -ve, but I made the biggest gains when I improved my clumsy driving
I've just switched back to 16" clubsports from 17" speedlines, and there's a huge difference (much better on 16's) - I guess KW's will help smooth out the effects of 18's, but they must have more of an impact on the handling than any minor geo changes?
lali
New member
The ring isnt anywhere near hard on tyres as any other race track, I did nearly 300miles around it in a brand new hire car and the injection mould nipples were still on the tyres when I'd finished.
having toe out on a road car is just an accident waiting to happen IMO, the race cars will work towards having a neutral toe the faster and more confident they get with the braking and turning balance but on the road.. oh no.
16" s are definatly the way to go, its how it should have been.
having toe out on a road car is just an accident waiting to happen IMO, the race cars will work towards having a neutral toe the faster and more confident they get with the braking and turning balance but on the road.. oh no.
16" s are definatly the way to go, its how it should have been.
appletonn
New member
yes, i did have -2.3 front for the last six months in a bid to drive out a little more of the understeer and even tried some front toe out (at the suggestion of my local indy) but the car felt odd on the bumpy A/B roads with the toe out, so soon changed back!
There are so many variable factors at work, not least the stiffness of the tyre sidewalls, that can enhance or cancel out other mods.
That neg camber really came good on a circuit and the car provided many, many smiles per mile once set up 'correctly'...[
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Hilux
New member
I had Mo30 ARB`s and the front edges feathered, with KWV3 and Weltmeister ARB`s tyre wear was completely even, no excess wear, even temperatures and no feathering with - 1.0 on the fronts.
ARB`s play a massive part in keeping tyre contact correct and reducing weight transference.
ARB`s play a massive part in keeping tyre contact correct and reducing weight transference.
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