Hi,
My problems started back in December 2003, I posted my first request for help in July 2005 when Dave (Computamedic) helped me identify some connections. The problem is electrical, the effect is for the car to cut out and refuse to start or just to refuse to start. A few months ago the failure occured in my garage so I was able to take plenty of time and check everything. The result was a poor supply to the coils. There was an indicated 12+ volts when checked with a multi meter but with a bulb to ground the volts dropped to 0. Poor connection somewhere. I failed to trace the wire back to source, assumed it went to the main relay/ fuse board and instead I ran a new supply from pin 15 on the ignition switch, the car started and went well until this week. It failed again 3 times, same effect as before but this time the connection to the coils was still good. Investigation of connections to the ignition switch indicated I had 12 + volts to one of the pins numbered 30 but not to the other pin 30. My previous investigations had shown that there was 12+volts on both pins. I had the car towed home where of course it started! I checked and I had again 12+ volts on both pins 30.
I have had the ignition switch out and discovered that in each switch position the pins 30 are connected.
My questions:
Why do I need two separate 12volt supplies when the pins to which they go are connected?
Where do these supplies come from?
Are they coming from the same place as the supply to the coils which I bypassed?
Why did I buy this car? sorry only kidding
If all else fails has anyone a complete wiring dirgram for the car? Or details on the wiring and plug identifications for the relay/ fuse board.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Sods law is at work here, last week, thinking all was now well I taxed the car for 12 months, renewed the insurance and decided on new tyres, I was at the tyre depot when the car broke down.
Thanks
Fred
My problems started back in December 2003, I posted my first request for help in July 2005 when Dave (Computamedic) helped me identify some connections. The problem is electrical, the effect is for the car to cut out and refuse to start or just to refuse to start. A few months ago the failure occured in my garage so I was able to take plenty of time and check everything. The result was a poor supply to the coils. There was an indicated 12+ volts when checked with a multi meter but with a bulb to ground the volts dropped to 0. Poor connection somewhere. I failed to trace the wire back to source, assumed it went to the main relay/ fuse board and instead I ran a new supply from pin 15 on the ignition switch, the car started and went well until this week. It failed again 3 times, same effect as before but this time the connection to the coils was still good. Investigation of connections to the ignition switch indicated I had 12 + volts to one of the pins numbered 30 but not to the other pin 30. My previous investigations had shown that there was 12+volts on both pins. I had the car towed home where of course it started! I checked and I had again 12+ volts on both pins 30.
I have had the ignition switch out and discovered that in each switch position the pins 30 are connected.
My questions:
Why do I need two separate 12volt supplies when the pins to which they go are connected?
Where do these supplies come from?
Are they coming from the same place as the supply to the coils which I bypassed?
Why did I buy this car? sorry only kidding
If all else fails has anyone a complete wiring dirgram for the car? Or details on the wiring and plug identifications for the relay/ fuse board.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Sods law is at work here, last week, thinking all was now well I taxed the car for 12 months, renewed the insurance and decided on new tyres, I was at the tyre depot when the car broke down.
Thanks
Fred
