cavity waxing my cills

[Alpine]

As the name of the thread suggests, I am planning (this weekend) on filling my cills up with cavity wax, to prevent the dreaded rust.

I've brought some Dinitrol cavity wax and an extension lead, and will inject through the hole where the black plastic vent sits below the door catch. The injection lance only reaches half way down the cill so I was planning on doing it on a steep slope so it would run down to the far end of the cill.

The dinitrol stuff is like a runny oil, which later solidifies. It's not like the messy Waxoil stuff.

My question is; am I safe to just pump away and fill the cills up with wax. I don't actually know what is in the cills but i assume that it is just a long tube so there is nothing i can damage in there. Anyone know any different ?

 

[zcacogp]

More knowledgable folks will be along soon, but I thought that all you needed to do was coat the walls of the cavity with the stuff - it's not going to rust in the air in the middle!

If you totally fill it, you will block the drain holes in the middle. I am guessing that the argument goes that if it is full of dinitrol, there can't be any need for water to need to get out, so no problems. However, what else drains into the sill which would then not be able to drain out? (I'm not sure whether this is an issue or not - I'm just musing).

FWIW, I used waxoyl on mine, and thickly coated the insides but didn't fill them. I then carefully poked the drain holes clear (although quite a lot of waxoyl had already run out of them.)


Oli.

 

[millview]

In my experience Oli is absolutely correct. Dinitrol is an excellent product (I've used it for the last 40 years, on cars that is!), but it is best used in warm weather, as it has a seeking action. The idea is to coat the metal surfaces not to fill them.
IMHO, the best thing you could do this weekend is to make sure ALL the drain holes are unblocked, and leave the 'Dinitrol-ing' to the springtime.

 

[sawood12]

I've used Waxoil in mine. You can warm the stuff in hot water to thin it out a bit before spraying, i'm sure you could do this with Dinitrol as well. There is no problem applying the stuff at any time as it purges out moisture so you don't have to wait for everything to dry out prior to application. But as has been advised in other threads make sure the drain holes are not blocked up. The hollow sill is part of the air circulation system of the car which is why there is a plastic vent to allow the air to circulate.

 

[zcacogp]

ORIGINAL: sawood12

I've used Waxoil in mine. You can warm the stuff in hot water to thin it out a bit before spraying

You can also dilute it with about 33% engine oil to make it easier to use. It makes it easier to spray and means it will trickle into the gaps better, as well as going further, but does make the whole job much much messier!


Oli.

 

[georgethackray]

I've always used Waxoyl in the past, but Dinitrol seems to have a good reputation so I might try that soon - can anyone recommend a supplier? I live in the North West - near Blackpool. What else needs to be bought to apply the stuff? I remember having to buy an applicator extensoin tube or something when I used Waxoyl.

I couldn't find any on eBay so now I'm stuck!!

 

[Alpine]

Thanks chaps. Very helpful.

Does anyone know how many drain holes there should be and where they are? Mines an S2 which has the black plastic strip attached to the cill, and the holes are hidden behind that.

George - you can get the Dinitrol at Frost - http://www.frost.co.uk/ Go into the rust section and its the cavity wax. You can buy an extention lead, although it is not long enough to go the full length of the cill.

 

[zcacogp]

Diver944 on here has some good photos of the underneath of the sill, but the drain holes are very easy to spot. Get your peepers under there and have a gander!


Oli.