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Central Locking 'auto unlocking' problem

oxford_hippo

PCGB Member
Member
Hi,

car has a PA1000 system.

when I go to lock the doors using the remote they lock, then approx. 2-3 seconds later they unlock of their own free will[:mad:]!

tried locking using the key in the lock - and that locks them[:D]...., then the central locking unlocks them again by itself[:(]!

If I turn and hold I can get them to stay locked[:)] - but bit of a pain,
any suggestions what might have happened to make it do this?
THanks,
T[&:]
 
If it's doing it with the alarm off and using the key in the door then it could be a fault with the central locking controller.

These units control both central locking operation and the interior lighting circuit and are located under the drivers seat. Part number is 928.618.260.0* There's been a few revisions depending on the year of your car hence the * as the last number.

Incidentally I have one listed on eBay going cheap if you want to try it out. See item number 110506545690
 

Are the door switches for the interior lights working properly? These can sometimes seize or work intermitantly, which I think confuses the central locking module by somehow making it think that a door is open.
 
guys - thanks for suggestions,

I think the door switches sounds likely - as the alarm was playing up recently going off after the car was locked, with doors closed - and the alarm code ( its series of flasshing lights to tell you what activated it said it was the door sensors.

I'd pressed them a few times to check they were'nt seized,

anything else that can be doen to check the dor switches are working as they should?
THanks
T[&:]
 
hi,i came across the same prob,which may well b the prob u have. there is a solanied(central locking motor) in the back corner of each door,connected 2 the lock mechanisum by a thin metal rod,u will probly find that one of them has got old & lazy and is not pulling the metal rod from the lock mech completly down.& if the the solonide does not pull the rod down completly the electrical circuit is not made so a few seconds later the doors will unknock. (i belive the same thing happens on all 993s,if the door is not shut completly and u try & lock the doors) Im pretty sure that is your problem,as you said you can get it to stay locked if you lock it using the key,as by doing it with the key u r forcing the rod & the solomide 2 the bottom of its travel by mechanical force and making the circut,rather than just relieing on electrical means which is what the alarm key fob does & which wont work at the moment as the solinied is knacked & does not have enough strength.

Hope that all makes sence,
not allways easy to explan,whilst trying not 2 turn it in to an essay,anyway let me know if u need more info
 
In correction to my above post reply.
I Should have put that the rod is made of PLASTIC and not metal :)
 
DWARD - many thanks for the help, sounds the same syptoms,

Is there anything that you can do to make the existing motors' life easier - bit of magical wd40 or a silicon lube?

Or is the cure just to replace the motors - guess both are likely to go if they are the same age?

THanks,
T[&:]
 
hi, i would take the solined motor out,pull the rubber gaiter back and spray a bit of switch/electrical contact cleaner down in there,them pull the rod up & down a few times,wait a few mins for it to work in and then evaporate,that should clean it up a bit inside.then do the same thing again with a bit of silicon spray which will lubricate it up nicely.worth a try as they can get a bit of water and muck in them,it certainly wont do any harm & u may get a few months or even years out of them,u never no but ive had some success on other solinides on other cars & boats.while your in there it would be worth just checking there is nothing caught round the rod and lubeing up the rod/lock mecanisum etc,just in case its started to seize up and is stopping the solonide from compling its full travel.but normaly it is just the solinied causing the trouble.u may find that u damage the plastic membrain, that u will find behind the door card whilst trying to remove it(although if you heat it with a hair dryer where it is glued,u may be able to get it off with out tearing it) ,a good idea to repair/replace it,you can make a new one from dpc plastic sheet. If u dont u will find that your door card will start rotting later on down the line,from the rain water that gets inside the door skin. As a foot note a new solinied was when i checked £64+vat from an offical porsche stealer

hope that all helps u get it fixed :)



















 
Hi there, just been having a look around the forums and noticed your problem. I had the same thing happening on my 964, I would lock it up in the car park at work then on returning to it to drive home found it unlocked. At the time it had the original alarm and central locking system, but the alarm wasn't working properly anyway. I found out that the battery was on its way out and this affected the central locking, probably unlocking the car so that it wasn't locked solid. So I suggest that you should check if the battery is holding the charge properly. If not a new battery should sort it.
 
Hi Brian, thanks for suggestion,

recent development is the remote won't now unlock the doors[:mad:] - but not quite a disaster as I can use the key manually - at least car is locked[8D] so all safe,

but i'm presuming this still is a door lock/solenoid problem - as the car battery seems to hold a charge fine ( it's only 6 montsh ish old )?
THanks,
T[&:]
 
hi, im still quite sure ur solinied motor is the main problem i would look to check that out first.as for ur alarm prob it may b as a result of the confusion of using the key to lock car,theres a bit in the handbook i seem to remember that says they put a plastic cap in door lock at factory to stop people using the key in the lock by mistake as it can confuse the alarm c/locking system so u should only remove cap & use key in emergency.
Anyway as ur alarm fob not working at all problem has come on only after ur first problem,i would stick to sorting the first one & u may find the second one sorts its self when the system is working as it should.

By the way,when u lock car with key does it seem harder to turn key to lock it,than it does unlocing it.

And does it seem there is more resistance when u use the key,than it was say six months ago, probly difficut to asses i know and u may have not have used the key before anyway.

:)
 
try locking car from other door,sounds like the small microswitch on the locking barrel is sticking on one side.

Chris
 
DWard - many thanks for the extra tips. - key harder to turn to lock the doors - but now can't unlock passenger door with manual key!![:-]

- but the door will still open from the inside[8D]

also - when I press the remote fob, the car indicators will blink once for open, 4 times for locking - but no noise / activity from the door locks ( whereas before it was trying to close them down, and then they were spring back up again ) ( usually there was a nice, reassuring metal clunk as the locks locked / unlocked via the remote )

the central door locking switch on the centre console doesn't lock / unlock the doors - and it did before this recent problem cropped up.

does that help narrow down what has worn out / broken.

Also - meant to ask before - I'd presumed that if either door would 'go' 1st it would be the drivers as that gets more use / more wear?? or does the 'use' keep things active / unseized?

thanks for any more pointers - think may be safer to get it to a garage before.......(not going to tempt fate1)

 
Right then reading your last post I'm pretty convinced it is the central locking controller that's gone.

£30 + £5 P&P and you can have the one I have spare. PM me if you want to try it out. They take all of 10 mins to swap over
 
hi,just to clear up a couple of things,the early nine elevens did have a micro switch in the barrel and was often the fault on those,i've fixed one myself.but on 993 the trigger is in the solinied,thats the reason it has a three wire connector. I can tell u for sure that it is not the electical box that domminator has for sale,as if that was the prob,the thing which Porsche call a curtusy circute would not work. ie the interior light would not and it would not come on for the 15 seconds or so when u turn the ignition off etc. But if doominator likes to email me i can put him in touch with someone who does have that prob.
Back to your problem,as both solinnides work together when u lock & unlock the car they should both wear together,but for some strange reason is is normaly the drivers side that goes first.
As u said the key is stiff to turn i would say that is your solinied at fault.

Do you use the car daily or can u have it off the road 4 a day or 2 to be able to remove the door cards











 
ORIGINAL: D Ward

hi,just to clear up a couple of things,the early nine elevens did have a micro switch in the barrel and was often the fault on those,i've fixed one myself.but on 993 the trigger is in the solinied,thats the reason it has a three wire connector. I can tell u for sure that it is not the electical box that domminator has for sale,as if that was the prob,the thing which Porsche call a curtusy circute would not work. ie the interior light would not and it would not come on for the 15 seconds or so when u turn the ignition off etc. But if doominator likes to email me i can put him in touch with someone who does have that prob.
Back to your problem,as both solinnides work together when u lock & unlock the car they should both wear together,but for some strange reason is is normaly the drivers side that goes first.
As u said the key is stiff to turn i would say that is your solinied at fault.

Do you use the car daily or can u have it off the road 4 a day or 2 to be able to remove the door cards

Kindly stop referring to me as domminator!? and doominator? it's dommorton as in Dom Morton

I had one of these units fail on my car and only the courtesy lighting circuit went and the central locking didn't so you're mistaken if you think the two are linked. They live in the same box and work together but they are independent circuits.

Don't get me wrong I'm not saying you aren't right it could well be the solenoid at fault. However the controller is a damn sight easier to try first and my reasoning is that if the alarm is doing it's thing but there's no action from the CL system then it's a pretty likely culprit.

If not he can always flog the controller on again.



 
you are right the lighting part of the box and the c/locking part can fail as seperate parts,but the unit normally fails totally.
And when this post started his interior lights were working,and his c/locking was working, all be it that it would them unlock its self,which y i said it could not be the unit u are selling,and i said to deal with the solinied problem first as the problems he is now experencing r most probly a result of the first problem and may well be rectified whe he sorts out the solinied door locking problem.
I aslogise,no afence was ment,im writting this on my phone while doing other things not my pc and the pradicive text tends to take over and im not able to scroll back to edit it or i lose all the text. I even offered to put you in touch with someone who would buy you item.

All through the post u have been telling him that the problem is with an item you happen to have to sell,u have offered him no other advice,every one else has tried to help him.

I have a gearbox for sale,maybe i should tell him its that that is causing his problems and offer to sell it to him
after all if could allways sell it on if it turns out not to be the gearbox



 
You've got me all wrong pal.

My offer was to help out a fellow 993 owner. I am not so interested in making the truly extortionate £30 asking price that I would offer duff advice. This way he can try the unit and see if it cures the fault without the need of stripping the doors or buying a new controller to try at £230+!

I have not once said for certain it is this at fault, as after all when it comes to cars nothing is guaranteed! Take your throttle cable issue for example. You tried all sorts to cure that one! and may I remind you that I offered support there without trying to sell you anything [;)]

I have personally experienced a fault with one of these units and have read threads where other people have had a range of issues with both CL and interior lighting circuits too. Therefore it is a good place to start in this case. I have not offered alternative solutions as you have already mentioned the solenoid and there isn't a lot more it can be!


 
Hi Dom ,

very many thanks indeed for offering to let me to try your controller 'on approval' to see if it is the 'cure', and for sending it over so quickly, fingers crossed, and I'll post a message as soon as I've got it fitted,

T[&:]
 

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