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Central locking does not work on passenger side

Mark Elder

PCGB Member
Member
Hi guys, where do I look first?

Just realised my passenger door is not locking/unlocking unless I use the key directly in the door. When I click the remote I get no clunk sound, well no sound at all, from the passenger door.

Clues are that the car has just come back from work on the door check stays so possible the doors have been off (although that was not mentioned). I can't be sure the visit to the body shop is connected to the lock stopping working but it was definitely working about 10 days before it went in.

Any ideas?
 
I think the doors are taken off for check strap work - and to do that all the switch gear from your door / door card is disconnected - so plenty of scope for something to come loose / or an old worn wire to get frayed?

On the other hand the door locks do fail - I know as both my doors failed and had the solenoid ( the motor which locks / unlocks the door ) replaced.
Good luck with tracking down the problem.[&:]t

 
Fixed![:)]
Tough to see how this connection got pulled in taking the door off because more slack on it than other cables in the door and parts of the cable run are clipped to the door. Anyway the soft rubber connector with 5 contacts inside that pushes directly onto the solenoid was the problem. It was not pushed properly home.

Now the door card is off I'd better replace the sound deadening that's all fallen to the bottom of the door[&:]
 
Just wondered - Does that solenoid lead go 'potentially' close the running gear for window regulators? - so depending on how it was re-fitted could your lowering the window have 'un-plugged' it?

Door sound deadening:
I tried using roofing adhesive / lead flashing ( not horrendously heavy if you are on an RS weight loss programme [;)]) but seemed to work OK - in terms of sticking and holding in place - and was similar to the material that had fallen off the inside of the old Mk 1 golf I was working on. Pretty cheap from Wickes / or 'proper' builders' merchants.

T[&:]
 
Tim,
The loom runs directly down the front of the door and then along the bottom of the lower access openings (clipped to holes at the bottom of the openings) - so really well clear of the window mechanism.

I agree that sticky lead flashing would be a good substitute although I had an official part in stock from when I did the driver's door a couple of years back (bought 2 so that next time I had the passenger door opened up I'd have it ready). Magnetic? Now you say it I think you are right. I found the passenger one much easier to fit. Had to cut the driver's one in two to get it into place but last night the passenger one went in easily. I secured it with spray glue.
 

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