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Central locking failure

chris morley

New member
I stupidly let my battery drain completely over the Christmas period and now, having charged it overnight, my car won't start because the central locking wont do it's thing!
I can of course enter the car on the key but with no response from the 'unlocking dimple' all I get is a dashboard full of warning lights - but no starter motor response
Is there a simple re-booting procedure does anyone know?

Chris
 
I'm pretty sure it is Maurice, yes.
I replaced the original fob last year Neither the old nor new one triggers the locks
 
I had this a couple of years ago in same circumstances. I found a good deal of repeat pressing of dimples in quick succession caused it to eventually realize who was in charge and it started behaving normally again!

Try it.
 
Just went out there. Pimpled/dimpled endlessly without a single clunk. Not sure sure even John Cleese with the branch of a tree would do it
Oddly though, I noticed that locking both doors manually on the key causes the red warning lights on the doors to flash after a short while - as it would normally

Chris
 
In that case give Steve at Hamilton and Palmer a call - 01732 760010 - they were the people who made all the alarms for 993s imported to UK and they are really helpful on phone.
 

I know that the standard Porsche alarm has a manual override using the four digit code on the key card but I'm not sure if the H & P system carried this over when converting to full Cat 1 status. Might be worth a go though, the details on how to do it are in the drivers manual on page 11



 
Thanks Mark. Apparently Steve left about 5 years ago - Jim was equally helpful though
He suggested I try using the red master key inside the car (battery installed) followed by the standard fob 3 or four times
Sadly this did nothing
His only other suggestion was to remove the alarm board from under the driver's seat and send it back to Hamilton Palmer for re programming

Clyde, I'm not sure I have a key card with four digits on it. Would the number be the one on the red master key?
 
I guess the battery change might have spiked something on the alarm and burnt out the board. But before removing it all I'd be tempted to disconnect it completely from it's power sources - not only the main battery but there is a backup too - so disconnect at the alarm unit under the seat. Leave disconnected for a few minutes then reconnect and try again.

Did you follow the procedure for the red master unit or just press it? If not done might be worth going through the procedure that re-links black fobs with the alarm - but it sounds like your fob is being recognised - you said you get a dashboard full of warning lights - so must be recognised. Really a dashboard full? Normally I just get the hazards giving a flash.
 
When using the RedFob did you get any beeps at all .?


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Also on ours i'm fairly sure the siren has a physical key on teh back which is an override .?
 
I think I may have discovered the cause of the problem - and it's not good
The seals of my Targa roof had been showing signs of shrinkage lately. My intention was to have them all replaced later this month. When I went to look under the driver's seat for the alarm unit I found it was terribly wet in the rear footwell. Since I hadn't driven it in the rain I assume it's just not water tight any more
So, I removed all the wet carpets and mopped up as best I could. Will have another look in the morning
Much though I cherish this car, it's proving a bit of a challenge at the moment
 
The latest in this saga is that there was a great deal of rainwater in both front and rear driver's side footwells. Looking for the source of the problem I found the driver's side rubber door seal, at the top where the window meets the front/rear roof bars, was slightly dislodged. It's hard to believe but I assume this caused the leak - although I'd thought there were drainage channels within the Targa roof sides. Can these get blocked?
Anyway there was so much water after the bad weather that I imagine it must have reached the electrics of the immobiliser under the seat.
I'm guessing the seat has to come out to get at the box. I can see 2 allen key screws at the back and one at the front of both seat rails. I just hope there aren't nuts underneath as I'll never get them back?
Then it's a question of knowing exactly what to remove and send off to Hamilton-Palmer. If anyone has experience of this I'd love to hear from you!
 
Not sure if they really bother repairing these anymore... think labour cost just works out too much and they will just sell you a new board and matched Red Fob.
From memory there are a couple fo security style allen/torx heads holding the unit down. Once remove it is then possible disassemble the case and access/remove the control board.
Very easy job to fit.. Just take a pic of which connectors go where on the board.. so they all go back in the right places.
 
The six allen bolts you have found are all that holds in the seat (well, except for the cable for the electric seat switches but there is a fairly obvious connector you can pull apart.). Seat is heavier than it looks so work out where you are going to put it down before you get it out of car!

Dominic Morton (dommoton) on here had quite a few dealings with H&P and ended up getting a new board. So perhaps contact him.

I guess count yourself lucky the water is in the driver's side and has not flooded the ECU under the passenger seat.

Water in cars is really depressing and frustrating!
 
Just so you know (price comarision...) Design 911 sell boards now....
http://www.design911.com/Porsche-PA1000-Alarm-control-board/prod4961/

 
Thanks for the Design 911 news. Having previously bought from them I'm quite reassured by the prospect
I now have the driver's seat unbolted (upside down on the passenger seat)
I've ordered a tamper-proof driver from RS Components for the box lid so should be in a position to make progress soon. Think I'll give a squirt of WD40 once the lid's off - you never know
Anyway guys, thanks for all the support and advice. I'm really not much of a mechanic - few tools and even less knowledge - so knowing I can get advice is really helpful. I guess it's what PCGB is all about
 

I would try drying the control unit out with a hairdrier before writing it off Chris. It's a bit of a long shot but after the fiasco I had with my brake lights after I washed the engine bay nothing would surprise me. Take the top off the box and soak up any water visable with kitchen roll and then dry the internals on a low heat.

Nothing ventured nothing gained as they say.


 
Breaking news this a.m....
Special screwdriver turned up yesterday and got the box up off the deck this morning. Pulled out the control board and at first all looked normal. A few droplets of moisture perhaps...then I turned it over. The underside is totally corroded, green and basically mouldy. Looks like it's been heading this way for quite a while too - so now I'm optimistic that this could be the cause of my mystery battery drain?
Fortunately I took two decisions yesterday; I ordered a new board from Hamilton & Palmer (same price as Design 911 plus they'd been really helpful) which should arrive today. Secondly I ordered a waterproof 'cap' from Classic Additions to keep the rain off the roof until I can get Targa seals dealt with
I'm thinking to try and create a grease seal around the opening in the box before I bolt it back. Good progress I think!
 
The new PA 1000 board went in this morning ...and it's job done!
Alarm made all the right noises, engine fired immediately...
couldn't be more chuffed

Chris

 
Great - now get those roof seals fixed! I love targas but I have too many memories of cars with leaking roofs from my youth....
 

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