Changing factory airbox for a cone filter
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Peter Empson
PCGB Member
It's a long time ago now, but I put a cone on my Lux (which I think is what you've got) and don't remember loosing any torque (this seems to be more likely with exhaust mods on these cars IMO). I did notice a slight improvement in throttle response, and more willingness to rev particularly at higher revs, oh and the noise was rather nice [
]
I certainly never wanted to go back to the standard intake.
The S2 is altogether different and I've yet to find the perfect balance between the great torque of the stock box and the top end of the cone, but its been too cold recently to do much messing around []
]I certainly never wanted to go back to the standard intake.
The S2 is altogether different and I've yet to find the perfect balance between the great torque of the stock box and the top end of the cone, but its been too cold recently to do much messing around [
]
ORIGINAL: Peter Empson
It's a long time ago now, but I put a cone on my Lux (which I think is what you've got) and don't remember loosing any torque (this seems to be more likely with exhaust mods on these cars IMO). I did notice a slight improvement in throttle response, and more willingness to rev particularly at higher revs, oh and the noise was rather nice [
I certainly never wanted to go back to the standard intake.
I agree completely. Very much matches my experience with putting a cone on a Lux.
db@944s.co.uk
New member
I recently changed my box for a cone but noticed there is a small pipe which is now not connected to anything.
Have I done something wrong or is this ok?
Having driven the car for a short period after fitting, I find that the sound in the mid-range revs is considerably better and the car feels as though it is breathing easier. []
Incidently I bought the cone on ebay for £19 inc P&P from the states.
Have I done something wrong or is this ok?
Having driven the car for a short period after fitting, I find that the sound in the mid-range revs is considerably better and the car feels as though it is breathing easier. [
]Incidently I bought the cone on ebay for £19 inc P&P from the states.
Indi9xx
New member
There has been many debates over the years of using aftermarket oiled filters instead of genuine paper elements.
In theory, a well oiled cone or element filter will filter as well, if not better than a standard paper filter and will flow more air... initially... However, a well oiled filter will collect dust very quickly and become clogged, meaning you get reduced performance eventually.
To keep an oiled filter in tip top condition, it needs cleaning a re-oiling on a regular basis (more often than a 12k service)
A cone or replacement element which isnt oiled will flow very nicely... But will be a waste of space, as it will only filter large debris rather than the fine stuff which is just as damaging as the bigger particles.
The problem with cone filters is that unless they are positioned in the correct place, ideally out of the engine bay, they will often loose you power at low road speeds (not engine rpm but car mph) due to the engine bay being full of warm air.. cool air is king with performance, the colder the air, the more oxygen you have per cubic inch, which results in more power.
All the best
Jon Mitchell
In theory, a well oiled cone or element filter will filter as well, if not better than a standard paper filter and will flow more air... initially... However, a well oiled filter will collect dust very quickly and become clogged, meaning you get reduced performance eventually.
To keep an oiled filter in tip top condition, it needs cleaning a re-oiling on a regular basis (more often than a 12k service)
A cone or replacement element which isnt oiled will flow very nicely... But will be a waste of space, as it will only filter large debris rather than the fine stuff which is just as damaging as the bigger particles.
The problem with cone filters is that unless they are positioned in the correct place, ideally out of the engine bay, they will often loose you power at low road speeds (not engine rpm but car mph) due to the engine bay being full of warm air.. cool air is king with performance, the colder the air, the more oxygen you have per cubic inch, which results in more power.
All the best
Jon Mitchell
sawood12
New member
I agree, in my view unless you are going to clean the filters every week (which I can't be bothered with) you're better sticking with the standard paper filter. Without wanting to spark off a big debate I am very sceptical of claims of power and torque improvements due to replacement of the standard filter in isolation.
ORIGINAL: db@944s.co.uk
I recently changed my box for a cone but noticed there is a small pipe which is now not connected to anything.
Have I done something wrong or is this ok?
Having driven the car for a short period after fitting, I find that the sound in the mid-range revs is considerably better and the car feels as though it is breathing easier. [
Incidently I bought the cone on ebay for £19 inc P&P from the states.
I bought my kit from the States and it included a connection for the pipe.
The kit did require some re engineering to get it to work properly but otherwise I was very pleased with the end result.
I agree. Beaky's cone filter seems to get full of crud in an astonishingly short space of time. They seldom clean up as nicely as a new filter and take ages to dry after rinsing out prior to re oiling.
K&N do a demonstration rig where they blow air through a conventional filter element and a K&N replacement. On the other side of the filters are ping pong balls in acrylic tubes. The K&N ping pong ball rises much higher in the tube and thus "proves" more air is being passed.
I have every confidence that this is the case when comparing new filters but how they compare 5k miles later is anybodies guess.
My main reasons for changing were:-
They take up less room so you can see more of the engine and spot any leaks.
They look cool. [
]I like the induction noise but this only has any effect on an NA
eastendr
New member
I've put a cone filter directly on the AFM on baby WUF. I've been looking at extending it further away to behind the N/S headlamp like in WUF. This is partly to get colder air (in conjunction with another NACA ducted headlamp cover) but also to provide a much longer inlet tract in an attempt to coax more low torque.
The 'rollers of truth' will tell about the torque and the G-Tech will tell about the cold air !
Rick.
The 'rollers of truth' will tell about the torque and the G-Tech will tell about the cold air !
Rick.
db@944s.co.uk
New member
That looks a much better fitment. I can see me opting for a branded one and will junk the universal one I have bought.
Another eBay bargain ... []
Another eBay bargain ... [
]
I've decided that Beaky's filter is past cleaning so have just ordered a replacement. You wouldn't believe the amount of crud that has fallen off it all over my desk.
A great K&N Site page for establishing which filter to use is http://www.knfilters.com/search/univcone.aspx
I noticed that K&N now also supply foam socks and mesh bags to put over you filter to try to keep it clean for longer. I then remembered that a standard modification with competition Land Rovers is to put stockings or tights over your K&N. I think this will be something that Beaky will be getting - it also has the advantage that should Belinda find some stockings in Beakys glove box I will be able to explain them away as filter covers. []
A great K&N Site page for establishing which filter to use is http://www.knfilters.com/search/univcone.aspx
I noticed that K&N now also supply foam socks and mesh bags to put over you filter to try to keep it clean for longer. I then remembered that a standard modification with competition Land Rovers is to put stockings or tights over your K&N. I think this will be something that Beaky will be getting - it also has the advantage that should Belinda find some stockings in Beakys glove box I will be able to explain them away as filter covers. [
]
ORIGINAL: Diver944
John if you really want to wear stocking then I think you should just come out and tell Belinda, I am sure she will be very understanding [
Well that is obviously another option. I wonder how many have gone that route as a result of such surprise findings?
Guest
New member
I have messed around with alot of Turbo Cars in my time and always understood that the incoming air needs to be as cold as possible for a turbo Car to keep the charged air temp' down , But I thought Hot is ok on a normally aspirated engine as it helps air/ fuel vapourisation? The existing snorkal which comes from the front inner wing could be used on its own with a funnel arangement on the end to still supply cold air to a cone filter. As for tights thats sounds a bit kinky for me!!!
It is always considered that cold air is denser than hot air, is loaded with more oxygen so can burn more fuel and make more power (didn't someone who knows what he is talking about say that recently []) However, when we last ran Beaky on the rollers of truth it took several runs to get the cylinders up to an efficient temperature - there seems to be a sweet spot that makes most power, so you could be right about heat aiding atomisation.
I think the difficulty is hitting that sweet spot in road use and you are perhaps better off looking for an inefficient burn of well oxygenated air over chasing an optimum burn of less well charged air.
]) However, when we last ran Beaky on the rollers of truth it took several runs to get the cylinders up to an efficient temperature - there seems to be a sweet spot that makes most power, so you could be right about heat aiding atomisation. I think the difficulty is hitting that sweet spot in road use and you are perhaps better off looking for an inefficient burn of well oxygenated air over chasing an optimum burn of less well charged air.
sawood12
New member
I suppose with a turbo car you could always compensate for the warm inducted air with a bigger intercooler. I would have thought that N/A cars would suffer more from warm air ingestion due to lack of forced induction drivign the manifold pressure to a consistent pressure (I know that there is more mass of air at a constant pressure if at a lower temp) and the lack of an intercooler.
Indi9xx
New member
You need cold air in both NA and forced induction cars.
You dont want the fuel to vapourise, you want it to be atomised.
Vapourised fuel burns faster and leaner than atomised fuel
In the good old days (pah!) cars needed a hook up to the exhaust manifold, so they could draw warm air during cold running.. this was in the days of carbs, and problems of carb icing in cold weather, where humid cold air, due to the effect of evaporation of the fuel, could cool to many degrees less than the tempreture outside, so even on just cool days, this humid air could freeze into ice.
Cold is good... Warm is bad.
All the best
Jon Mitchell
You dont want the fuel to vapourise, you want it to be atomised.
Vapourised fuel burns faster and leaner than atomised fuel
In the good old days (pah!) cars needed a hook up to the exhaust manifold, so they could draw warm air during cold running.. this was in the days of carbs, and problems of carb icing in cold weather, where humid cold air, due to the effect of evaporation of the fuel, could cool to many degrees less than the tempreture outside, so even on just cool days, this humid air could freeze into ice.
Cold is good... Warm is bad.
All the best
Jon Mitchell
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