Cheap parts washer and rust remover
- Thread starter Hilux
- Start date
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
Easy, fill a swimming pool with vinegar and impersonate Keith Moon. [
]
morris944s2john
New member
Better than vinegar is citric acid (no smell!) for de-rusting small parts. 5-10% solution in hot water.
morris944s2john
New member
I wouldn;t use citric acid in your sills[8|][:-]. If you want to spray something before the cavity wax then I would use zinc spray (galv spray).
Citric acid is goos for soaking items in a bath overnight- it dissolves all the rust leaving clean steel. Don't put it in your sills. It's available for about 50p a KG on the internet.
Citric acid is goos for soaking items in a bath overnight- it dissolves all the rust leaving clean steel. Don't put it in your sills. It's available for about 50p a KG on the internet.
morris944s2john
New member
Cavity wax is much better than oil and less messy- the Dynax is available in spray cans with long tubes for spraying down the sill.
peanut
Active member
Yes but I'm willing to bet it isn't half as effective as oil.
Wax relies on a nice clean rustfree surface to adhere to to exclude air and moisure. I don't see how this would be possible when your cills are damp and flaking rust, mud and dust . I think you need to deactivate the rust first for waxoil to be really effective.
Wax relies on a nice clean rustfree surface to adhere to to exclude air and moisure. I don't see how this would be possible when your cills are damp and flaking rust, mud and dust . I think you need to deactivate the rust first for waxoil to be really effective.
morris944s2john
New member
The inside of the sills on my S2 were clean but rusty when I let some patches in (butt welded) the rest of the metal was clean and the rust was localised so I decided a local repair was worthwhile- no mud in evidence. The only way mud could get in there is if you had a hole in your rear wheelarch.
Thin cavity wax is much better for the job than used engine oil. Used oil contains acids, water and other contaminants than could actually encourage corrosion. Cavity waxes are designed for the job and coat both clean panelwork and rust alike stopping or at least slowing corrosion. Wax will stay there once it has set wheras oil will eventually run out of the cavity.
Thin cavity wax is much better for the job than used engine oil. Used oil contains acids, water and other contaminants than could actually encourage corrosion. Cavity waxes are designed for the job and coat both clean panelwork and rust alike stopping or at least slowing corrosion. Wax will stay there once it has set wheras oil will eventually run out of the cavity.
Nick,
The likes of Waxoyl usually have rust-converters in which turn the rust into something inert. And they are ideally thin enough to trickle into loose bits of rust and prevent further damage from occuring.
Having said that, I always dilute waxoyl with about 40% used engine oil to make it easier to spray and more fluid, thus more penetrative. It also makes it go further. Downside is that it also makes it much messier and much harder to get off if it goes in the wrong place.
Oli.
ETA: My current can of Waxoyl is my last one tho'. Having read the reports, Dynax seems to be the way forward.
The likes of Waxoyl usually have rust-converters in which turn the rust into something inert. And they are ideally thin enough to trickle into loose bits of rust and prevent further damage from occuring.
Having said that, I always dilute waxoyl with about 40% used engine oil to make it easier to spray and more fluid, thus more penetrative. It also makes it go further. Downside is that it also makes it much messier and much harder to get off if it goes in the wrong place.
Oli.
ETA: My current can of Waxoyl is my last one tho'. Having read the reports, Dynax seems to be the way forward.
I put some dynax in my sills this weekend, it looks just like waxoyl diluted with sump oil
It seemed to bubble away for a while when it hit the rust and settled down to a dark brown. Its a frustrating job as visibility and access is so poor, and the lance sprays in a sort of maltese cross shape, horizontally and vertically from the lance head. I rotated the can as instructed but its a big ass can and a long pipe. I'll do a more thorough recoat when the weather improves, and I'm going to make another extension pipe for the spray head for direct spraying. I
It was pretty damn cold this weekend, but the (aerosol) dynax still flowed well and was dripping out of the sill drains - The rear drains i had located before but also in places dripped along the length of the sill. Im hoping these are also proper sill drains and not just holes
The lance also clears nicely for repeated use by just blowing through it into a tissue.
It seemed to bubble away for a while when it hit the rust and settled down to a dark brown. Its a frustrating job as visibility and access is so poor, and the lance sprays in a sort of maltese cross shape, horizontally and vertically from the lance head. I rotated the can as instructed but its a big ass can and a long pipe. I'll do a more thorough recoat when the weather improves, and I'm going to make another extension pipe for the spray head for direct spraying. I
It was pretty damn cold this weekend, but the (aerosol) dynax still flowed well and was dripping out of the sill drains - The rear drains i had located before but also in places dripped along the length of the sill. Im hoping these are also proper sill drains and not just holes
The lance also clears nicely for repeated use by just blowing through it into a tissue.
Hilux
New member
Waxoyl is fine and has a rust converter however the best way to apply it is to thoroughly warm it (no dilution needed) in an airing cupboard or 5-10 mins rotating the tin in front of an electric air blower/heater (loosen cap first - just in case you forget or leave it too close) and use a shutz type gun and a compressor around 80psi which atomises it better and drives it into gaps. Its runny enough as the solvent takes it to where its needed then evaporates leaving a non hardening seal which I consider is its best feature.
I`ve used it for years without any issues, cheap and effective if applied correctly and it does kill the rust BUT its not good in high impact areas like wheelarches etc for those I clean, rust treat as required and then apply Schutz. Tip some out into a container and you can also brush on Waxoyl around brake pipe unions exposed nuts and bolts etc and hard to reach places and remove it easily enough with a bit of white spirit or petrol.
Only downside 1) the fumes are powerful in a confined space (and therefore potentially flammable without adequate ventilation) and 2) it doesnt like welding [&:] ( ask me what a Suzuki SJ offroader looks like with a chimney fire in the A pillar [8|][8|][
] )ORIGINAL: Hilux
ask me what a Suzuki SJ offroader looks like with a chimney fire in the A pillar [8|][8|][
Better than a Suzuki SJ without a chimney fire in the A-pillar? [8D]
Actually I know they are capable and light (which is why they are capable), but they are handicapped by being Japanese.
pauljmcnulty
Active member
I remember a mechanic friend trying to weld the sills on a fairly new Alfa - must have been early '90s. For some strange reason they were filled with inflammable foam. A pointless addition that only trapped water and made the repair far more difficult. []
I always have to remember that, no matter how badly our cars corrode, they are still leagues ahead of anything from their day. Aded to that, they are mechanically more reliable. Electrically, let's not think about a mid-'80s Itallian or French car. Or a Rover. [8|]
Keep treating those sills, whatever you use it's a very cheap way of keeping a car on the road.
]I always have to remember that, no matter how badly our cars corrode, they are still leagues ahead of anything from their day. Aded to that, they are mechanically more reliable. Electrically, let's not think about a mid-'80s Itallian or French car. Or a Rover. [8|]
Keep treating those sills, whatever you use it's a very cheap way of keeping a car on the road.
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