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Cill rust protection

nixon

New member
Hello all, one of the rubber cill trims has just fallen off my car! No problem gluing it back on but it has exposed 2 holes into the cill cavity so was thinking it might be a good opportunity to squirt some wax into the cavity. Any thoughts as to what to use? Is there a problem of blocking any drain holes if I do put some wax in? Thank you Tim

 
Dinitrol and Bilthamber seem to be more popular than Waxoyl. Make sure you keep the drain holes clear or you'll be giving yourself a future problem!
 
Thanks for your replies. Does anyone know where the drain holes are so I can keep them clear? No obvious holes on the underside of the cill, should I be able to see them or are they masked by the cill cover. I think I'll try some Bilthamber Dynax S50, looking at their website application by aerosol seems quite straight forward. Tim
 
Out of interest which cill trim has fallen off? Is it the long rubber one that sits beween the outcover and the car or the jacking point bung?

I know my old bungs were glued in [:mad:] but the other part shouldn't be glued in, should it?
 

ORIGINAL: nixon

Thanks for your replies. Does anyone know where the drain holes are so I can keep them clear? No obvious holes on the underside of the cill, should I be able to see them or are they masked by the cill cover. I think I'll try some Bilthamber Dynax S50, looking at their website application by aerosol seems quite straight forward. Tim
They are slots along the inner to outer sill flanges rather than round holes. Look underneath and they will be obvious to see.
 
Thanks for your replies. To answer Mark's question it is the rubber trim on the bottom of the door threshold that has fallen off and exposed 2 holes about 10mm diameter. It all feels very solid when I poke around through the holes but can imagine its a good place for rust! Tim
 
Hi just joined the club bought my 87 targa 5 weeks ago,
Might be a good idea to remove both sill covers treat them in the grove that holds the rubber trim, but only treat sill if no welding needed so smaller risk of a fire
I removed the outer sill cover on the N/S and found welding to the base of B post jacking point .
Not an invisible repair they left the end of sill open so will make a temp glass matting repair till time and money allow for a proper repair
I will replace all screws with stainless and remove this cover once a year to re treat
 
Is the cill cover easily removed? I can see that the cover plate in the rear wheel arch is just screwed on, if I remove this will the long rubber/plastic trim slide out? Is the cill cover then bolted or screwed on and simple to remove and replace? Thanks
 
I have now removed both sill covers the N/S was easier to remove
Take off the end caps first soap up the rubber trim piece then slide out
Spray rear of 10 mm bolt headed self tappers at the bottom of sill
remove all the the cross head screws
O/s same again but the oil lines are held by those 10mm bolts and mine have sheared
I will trear all rust with Bilthamber products (they are used on oil pipelines look on the web)
 

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