I recently replaced the clutch master cylinder, (944 turbo), clutch now works fine, but has a verly low biting point. Can this be adjusted in any way, or does it mean the clutch is getting well worn. No judder and operates smoothly - or maybe the slave cylinder needs changing too - any ideas or opinions - OH, and If I ever get this gem of a car on the road (see previous posts) I'm def going to the next available meet with you lot. I've just spent a small fortune at Porsche Burgess Hill - so I'm already on first name terms there, be good to see a few fellow owners
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Clutch biting point ..er..er.
- Thread starter Showtime
- Start date
Kevin Welch
New member
I believe the clutch can be a bit difficult to bleed properly as there is high loop in the pipe which can cause an air lock This might be the cause of your clutch problem.
Big Dave
New member
Sounds to me like the system needs to be bled properly..
They are notoriously difficult to bleed in the normal manor.[ ie pressing the pedal]. Its better to get a pressure bleeder [ a bit like a garden sprayer] . That way it gets ALL the air out..[][]
Usually ,if your biting point is low near the floor , it means youve just fitted a new clutch, if the bite point is high then the clutch is on its way out...
They are notoriously difficult to bleed in the normal manor.[ ie pressing the pedal]. Its better to get a pressure bleeder [ a bit like a garden sprayer] . That way it gets ALL the air out..[][]
Usually ,if your biting point is low near the floor , it means youve just fitted a new clutch, if the bite point is high then the clutch is on its way out...
Keggers
New member
The biting point is adjustable. There's a locking nut on the arm linking the clutch pedal and the master cylinder. If you undo the locking nut you can turn the arm (pull the rubber cover back and you can get a spanner onto it (8mm i think from memory)) and adjust the length of the arm. This changes the biting point. Not sure if there is any reason not to do this but it worked on mine really well.
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