Clutch Change - first question... how high?

[Tommys86]

Alright chaps - going to brave the clutch replacement / any else I uncover along the way over the winter period. Just getting in my head preparation - anyone done this job before? If so how high did you jack the car up? Guessing the higher the better but then suddenly thought I've got to contend with lowering/raising components back in (on a jack).

Cheers,

Tom

 

[Dan944t]

Hi Tom,

the main thing you have to consider when thinking of what height, is that you will need to drop the gearbox from the back, down onto the floor in order to pull the torque tube back far enough to work inside the bellhousing to acces and work on the clutch preasure plate ect .

i Have done this the increadibly hard way with only enough height to squeeze my body under there and get the gearbox to drop on a jack, and only this year when I removed the entire engine I did it by driving the front wheels up onto the metal drive up ramps then installed a few 4by 2 planks undernieth those by jacking it up to slot them under the ramp to give it more height, then I jacked the rear up from the muddle And put another 2 drive up Ramps with the same set up as the front but turnt the Ramps the other way round for extra security so it gas the end stop against the rear wheels so it can’t go anywhere.

this set up give nice amount of room if you can manage it with them room access you have. My new house garage doesn’t have the amount of room that my last house had unfortunately so i will struggle more when I go to rebuild and install my engine in the winter.

good luck with it, just don’t rely on axle stands unless there really good quality and I’ve seen these fail and it haunts me. If I ever rely on these myself I always set up at least a few more on a hacking point as back up just in case these fail or at very least your alloy wheel under there just for security.

atb
Daniel

 

[edh]

It's just the gearbox you need clearance for - l took mine out with the car on axle stands a few years back.

Don't forget you still need access to the top side - 2 bellhousing bolts & the reference sensor, also gearstick removal.

 

[944Scott]

Buy or borrow a slide hammer, it is the easiest way to remove the clutch fork shaft, if its showing signs of wear replace the shaft and the needle bearings (both available from ECP) if the clutch fork is showing signs of wear find somebody who can weld stainless and re-profile it for you.

 

[robwright]

Normal axle stands are enough.

 

[Tommys86]

Thanks for the comments guys, I've got a set of ramps but the car has no drive so can't drive it up. I have bought a couple of high lift jacks and tempted to bridge the jacking points with some box tubing to get it enough that I could slide ramps under. Ok I'l have a butchers and see - I'm the same safety is paramount!

 

[zcacogp]

Tom,

As has been said, you need to get enough clearance to remove the gearbox. A foot of lift would probably be enough. However if you want to get the torque tube out as well then I understand you need to drop the rear suspension which may mean you need to go higher.

Getting to the top bolt on the bellhousing is a pain in the bum, and the higher the car is off the ground the harder these are to get to. But that's about the only difficult bit of the job IIRC.

Very happy to come and lend a hand if it helps.


Oli.

 

[944Scott]

A few pictures from when I did mine.

https://s5.postimg.org/5rzciv5bb/axle_stands.jpg
https://s5.postimg.org/mf...70723_112937_34522.jpg
https://s5.postimg.org/qovknlvnb/gearbox_2.jpg

For some reason the middle three wont accept

 

[jellytott]

Bit brave on grass....
Question....what was the shaft with the wear on it (Hand picture holding the shaft the last visible picture)

JT

 

[edh]

That's the shaft the clutch fork runs on.

 

[944Scott]

That's what 165k looks like on the clutch fork shaft.

I'd do rear main seal, pilot bearing, re profile clutch fork if worn, needle bearings and I would also check the torque tube and gearbox linkage oh and the gearbox mounting bush.

 

[IanK]

That's what 165k looks like on the clutch fork shaft.
I'd do rear main seal, pilot bearing, re profile clutch fork if worn, needle bearings and I would also check the torque tube and gearbox linkage oh and the gearbox mounting bush.

And maybe the clutch guide tube and the crank sensor (whilst the bellhousing is off).
And, in addition to the clutch kit to do the job you will need the 2 exhaust header gaskets, torque tube pinch bolts and clutch bolts

Ian

 

[944Scott]

Bit brave on grass....
Question....what was the shaft with the wear on it (Hand picture holding the shaft the last visible picture)

JT

The ground is very hard there, it stood like that for about five months [:-]